siraff

im not a fan of ABS. the way i see it, if you know how to use the brakes properly (not just stamp on them) there's very little or no point to it and over bumps/surface changes i think most ABS systems are more of a danger than a help. i think nissan would have been better advised to fit brakes upto the job and leave the ABS as an option. vini: are you really happy with them? my manual has brand new stock brakes and they're bloody awful. great untill you stop hard twice then you're down to using the engine as they fade to nothing. if anyone wants a good demonstration of just how poo ABS can be, get on some loose gravel (fine stuff) and do a couple of stops. it might aswell be on ice. si.

no prob mate. i know you can do the headgasket quite easily if you overheat it but the signs arent there. you should have at least one of these: takes a while to start, noticable lack of power, high fuel consumption (but its a Z so thats standard anyway), water in oil or oil in water, bubbles and/or slime in the water, a fair ammount of white or blue smoke from the exhaust, getting worse when you rev it. if you have none of the above or you may have but you're not sure that usually means its fine. if the cars been stood for a while or not used often or if the water system hasnt been drained and re-filled with coolant regularly, you get corrosion and rubbish in your water (especially if the cars been filled with just water and then stood). try the easy stuff first. i'd say blocked rad but the thermostat is the easiest and cheapest so go for a new one first. oh, and im just thinking logically. if everytime a car overheated it was the headgasket there wouldnt be so many cars left on the road. usually they overheat after the water system has'nt been properly maintained and the gasket goes because of that. easy. si.

yeah, agreed there. it'd look awesome (and probably totally origional) and sound like an absolute beast. they sound great on a 4-pot vauxhall engine so they'll make yours sound like a track car. if you wanted to go really OTT, you could have a pair of TVR style filters poking out of the bonnet. lol si.

wheel spacers?

deffinately a long shot but if you've got deep pockets try jenvey or webber and they may make some up to suit. like i said though, better have deep pockets. standard fit ones usually go from £1600 up. other way to do it is 2 banks of TB's off bikes (triumphs are best for 3) and get the flanges made to suit. any engineering place will be able to do that and they'll be relatively cheap. only trouble then is you'll need to get either the ECU mapped up (if it'll cope) or a different ECU. the second one's an option but i really think the first would be a waste of money. you could TT it for that or if you like N/A you could stick the VQ45 in (speak to Friday od John Dixon). si.

if its not overheating when you got the heater on and its cool out but it is when you're in the sun with the heater on cold that says blocked rad and/or thermostat. matrix cant be blocked as its helping to cool the engine and keeping you warm. headgaskets not gone or it'd do it all the time, not just in the warm. easiest thing first, swap the thermostat over, they're VERY common on any car and the symptoms point to it. if that doesnt cure it try the rad. even if its not totally blocked, when the car gets hot the pressure will build up (the water will ALWAYS expand - the pressurised system is there to stop it boiling, not expanding - thats what the expansion tank's for) and the cap is the weak link (and its designed to be - otherwise it'd blow a major water system component) so it'll leak. dont try to put more pressure on the cap cuz you're only putting the pressure on all the other parts in the water system and you're not curing the fault. swap thermostat, flush rad (like take it off and flush it out properly, not just bung rad flush in and hope) then top up with coolant. they need coolant, not neat water, partly to lubricate the water pump, thermostat and rest of the system and partly to help cool the car. HTH si.

hi all. anyone local (ish) got a car trailer i could use for a day or two this week coming? i have to pick up my new Z (no eng/box), bring it back and take the bones of my other one to the scrap :shock: its worth a drink if anyone's got one (or if some of the bits of the car im breaking are of intrest we could sort something out?). im in wolverhampton but the cars in southampton. i can travel to get it as long as its not too far (like scotland, etc lol). its gotta be legal and safe to carry a Z (heavy car) as i dont do dodgy. thanks in advance. si. P.S. anyone that wants to come and get their hands dirty swapping a TT auto into what was an N/A auto and likes free coffee feel free. not sure what day/days it'll be yet but the earlier in the week the better so mon/tues. anyone that wants to come along for a natter without getting their hands dirty is also welcome but expect the rest to take the mick quite a bit. lol thanks. si. :nana2:

or you may still have an airlock from when the weak cap loosed the water out? or a dodgy thermostat? partially blocked rad? are the cooling fans working? when is it pushing water out? after standing or when driving or from cold or all the time? si.

never a bird but i've had a gypsie in a transit throw half a milkshake in while he was going the other way and some jealous f11kka egged it in a carpark once. the milkshake (in the Z) was a pain to get out and the egg marked the paint (renault 5 turbo) but i blew the car up not long after so i wasnt that bothered.

good god. i never thought i'd laugh at underage perversion but that was 'kin funny!

TBH mate if you're fitting 18G's i think you're looking at chipping the auto box anyway so you can get it set to suit the new spool times. i think they put smaller ones on the auto so that when you come off the gas and it drops the revs down (unlike a manual) you dont have to wait ages for them to get back on song. the lag will be the same on both but it may show more with the auto 'box is what im trying to say. si.

well if its a track only car i doubt any size will cool too much. try it and see if it works. if not, what have you lost? si.

800-1800 sounds like you got a leak between a turbo and the inlet. pull one of the boost control lines off the metal hard pipe thats before the throttle body (but DO NOT touch the throttle!!!!!!!) if its no different then there's a leak. as for the code 13, have you tried a different temp sensor? if not i'd go that way to make sure it isnt just f11ckt. si.

lol. good one. i was expecting a few politically correct answears but that sounds honest. lol

and darkside, i totally agree with that. cant stand people like that. if they drive to the pub with no other way home i think that should be grounds enough for the police to do them. isnt there a law against attempting to drink drive? you could probably argue that it wasnt criminal damage as you were doing it to stop a dangerous crime happening? afaik that clears you? si.

i used to get this a lot (im sure some of its jealousy - its usually a 4x4 or a poo car) so now i've taken to parking in the end spaces of the car park (across 2 if they're small spaces) with the drivers door by the wall/hedge.etc. that means no one can park in the 3ft gap i leave so i can always get it. i think some people just dont realise how far a Z's door has to open to let you in. someone in a 5-door hatch (usually wafer thin doors) can get out with a foot next to their car. the Z needs at least 2ft for you to stand a chance. mayb they should have staggered size spaces to help bigger cars out and not waste space on microcars? si.

i was thinging that si.

i dont think it'll stop it working if you dont connect it. basically its for a signal from the handbrake light so that the handbrake has to be applied for it to work. i think its aimed at stopping you leaving your auto (if you have one) in drive then the car going up the road. si.

say you're driving down a deserted, straight, dry, well surfaced road in a 60mph limit doing 60. nothing around apart from a very small bush in the distance and the kind of enticing road that entices you to go a bit faster. you gentle accelerate very slightly to 65. then a copper jumps out of the bush, speed gun in hand and pulls you over to take your licence off you for speeding in a dangerous manner. in law he's right but you know he's not morally right. same situation but a 30 limit, poor road in the wet and you're doing 35 trying to get home. another copper comes out, pulls you to one side and has a word in your ear. he says "i know you werent doing much wrong but remember the speed limit and stick to 30 as its safer for everyone and i dont want to nick you" same 30mph limit, same conditions, another copper pulls you over and says "you werent doing much but if i catch you doing it again i'll have your licence" which driver would you rather be, which copper would you rather be and why? :smash: think hard people. night night. si. :)

hate to say it but i think actions were discontinued in 01-02? the only place you're likely to get them is the manufacturers (if they still have the moulds) or second hand if you can find them in the same offset, etc. good luck. si.

hmmm..... i have a spare Z engine now..... hmmm just the 25k i'd have to find. lol

i think its broke. not too good with wires, etc but it sounds like a short in the light circuits? remember how fords (sierras and same age escorts) used to have all lights on one side on then the other side go off when they developed shorts in the rear? just a thought though. si

house of colour? dunno if they're uk based though si.

is there a way to change the name on this thread? i dont think people are looking at it cuz it looks like im hving a whinge?

sounds just like mine. i was fumbling with the fob to turn it off and that happened. after about a week when she had a mess and it worked fine after that.