siraff

looks like a nice finish. as andy said, it looks like it needed to be prepped better but i like it. may look a bit OTT on standard rims though? having said that, its more subtle than pure chrome. i like it. si

opinions please, folks... with this spec; JE low comp pistons, carillo rods, stroker crank uprated bottom end bearings, bolts, etc, stronger more flow oil and water pumps, block de-burring metal headgaskets, heavily worked heads, bigger valves, stronger springs, higher lift same duration cams, one off intake manifold with single inlet side from charger, 2sets of injectors - 1 stock sized, the other 550's, full ECU to control this lot, 2 massive FMIC's, all hoses, pipes samco, all lines braided stainless, twin uprated fuel pumps, surge tank, etc etc and 30PSI, 1600CFM :bow: what power do you think is reasonable to expect from the Z? i know its not actually done yet but i've had some people say 400bhp and others say 1500bhp any guestimates for when its done (it'll be a while yet though - like 18months or more) and before i get it, im not just dreaming - its most likely going to happen (mayb with a few changes to spec) and i dont like to say "what if" unless i have every intention of doing it. i hope you all take it seriously and have a good crack at guessing power levels when done. i'll give a chomp to the winner. ;) si

cheers mate. i know its a new thing but hopefully if it works out ok it may catch on. we shall see. si

oh, and that super is rated at 1600CFM and 30PSI. there are some that will do a lot more than that. the good thing with supers is i dont have to bother about lag. they dont have it so i can just get the biggest one my pocket and the internals will allow. any guesses? lol si.

im after (as money allows - i'll be having a spare engine lying about soon) JE low comp jobs, carillo/eagle/etc rods, IF i can get a reasonably priced one, a stroker crank but most likely i'll have mine lightened, peened and treated, one off or seriously strong bottom end bearings, bolts, etc, stronger more flow oil and water pumps, block de-burring (TTZ recon this is a prob in the waterways on highly tuned Z's), metal headgaskets, heavily worked heads with strength in mind, bigger valves, stronger springs, higher lift same duration cams (going for torque), one off intake manifold with single inlet side from charger, 2sets of injectors - 1 stock sized, the other 550's, massive FMIC (maybe 2 if they can locate angled from middle to side) im going to ask the lord (john dixon) if he can map all this in for me then its all the annoying little bits that you always forget you'll need (brackets, etc) that'll take time and money up. im looking at about an 18-month- 2yr build if im doing the maths right. i have no idea what power all that'll be worth but i've had guesses anywhere from 500bhp@wheels (me) to "at least 1000bhp" (a mate that thinks his RX-7 makes 600bhp) what do you all think? si

what i was thinking of was doing away with the complexity and how awkward things are to get to and fit one of these: VORTECH V-7 YSi-TRIM SUPERCHARGER "Large blower" performance in a smaller package that fits most existing Vortech bracketry Fits engines up to 1200 horsepower Maximum airflow: 1,600 CFM * Maximum boost pressure: 30 PSI * Maximum impeller speed: 65,000 RPM Adiabatic efficiency: 78% ** Available with straight or curved discharge in clockwise rotation only Click here for YSi-Trim models copied from their site. there are loads of supers that will easily generate big power and since its one unit, has no exhaust gubbins to worry about and can sit where i can get to it, i think it'll be worth the time/effort to fit and set up. the only problem i have is that im not really up on this CFM rate, etc. i did notice that supers are more expensive than turbo's but since i only need one, that works out pretty much even. also, i noticed a thread on here a while ago where some were saying that the exhaust manifold limits ultimate output, another that you have to mess with the inner wing to get big turbo's in, etc etc. i know it aint going to be easy to charge it but in the long run i think it'll be worth it. do you know what the ideal PSI, CFM, etc will be? im after 800+bhp (i know its a long shot) but anything over 500 would be enough at the mo. cheers si.

cheers for that mate. only thing is, i aint looking at turbo's ;o))))

TBH, the spoiler spoils it - so doing its job, the wide arches are too wide - doing their job, the paint.... well, urm, ... im sure if he puked on it that'd do its job too and im sure there's an axle from a 10-tonner somewhere round here that'd fix it well by going through the roof. its a shame he didnt put all that time and effort into tuning it as it looks quite a well made bodge job. 2000bhp zx>? lol

look at the thumbnails... the replacement bulb is lighting the bumper and the origional one isnt... take it out, re-seat it properly and try again as its obdviously not in the same place. HTH si

and another one. anyone know what the CFM and max PSI our turbo's are rated at and what CFM/PSI would be needed for 500-700BHP? :rofl: only asking at the mo. cheers folks in advance. si.

hi all. just a quick question for those who know... will the N/A manifolds (or aftermarket ones for the N/A) go onto a TT head? i know there wont be anywhere for the turbo to go, etc.... just wandering if they bolt up? im upto something if it goes well. :hyper: :rofl: cheers si.

i have one. LWB jap TT in silver (knackered engine but hopefully friday's will come to the rescue) how come i cant vote on polls these days then?

yampie - if you're storing it, couldnt you take it out for a short run at the weekend? just 10-20mins after warming it up will keep it all pretty sweet. if you're going to drain it, you have to do it properly - like ALL the fluid out, air out the tyres and put it on axle stands, leave handbrake off, spray waxoyl/grease/WD40 all over and under it, down all cables and moving parts, etc etc. it'd probably take the beat part of a day just to lay it up then more to get it all back together. not really worth it for less than a year IMO. best thing's to keep it going as often as poss.

i know.... unhitch the caravan and fill it with petrol instead of diesel. that should get it going better. seriously though mate, i dont think it having auto tubs/cams will make a vast difference to 60. mayb half a sec or 1 at the most. you should easily get under 7secs if its just rough set up. sounds like its in safety boost or you've got some serious launching issues? sorry im not being very technical but i have no idea what the prob is so im just trying to be helpful si.

get the TT. its miles faster and not noticeably more expensive on the fuel. fuel varies but the best i've had was 18mpg. worst about 5mpg (but it was moving quite quickly and on 1.3bar boost most of the time). if it breaks it will cost the earth and the way they arrange the engine bay defies logic and anyone with decent sized fingers. most jobs arent for the home mechanic and a lot are engine out only. sometimes the T-tops seals leak but these arent hard or expensive to fix. thats the bad sides. on the good side, you'll have enough power to blast most things on the road, they like sideways action and dont protest too much, the back seats are for your packed lunch, decent sized boot but shallow (but the back seats fold and they're useless anyway). the climate control is ice cold in the summer and stops steaming up in the winter well. the other point is how tuneable they are. basic mods (filter, chip, exhaust) will usually see them on 350-400bhp depending on how mad you go with boost. then they spin the wheels in third without clutch and are huge fun. they also drive really nice. try one. you'll love it. si.

. sorry but i have to disagree here. the idea of honda's Vtec system is to give a car with big valves and high compression some bottom and midrange. the only really peaky ones are the type-R's, etc which are really a semi-race engine that can cope around town. i have a prelude 2.2vtec (jap) and on the dyno the curve looks a bit like an ar5e. starts okthen arcs slightly up then back down then at 5100 torque starts going up again then tails slightly before the end. not peaky at all and it doesnt feel like it on the road. and with no mods or any type of induction (factory had gone walkies when i got her) it made a genuine 205bhp on the dyno. at the wheels power peaks at 166bhp but it has more area under the graph here than my mate's auto TT Z. it may have been a weak one though - 255bhp@6600rpm or just a smidge over 170bhp at the wheels. doesnt boost untill 2500rpm then torque tails off after 6000 with a big lump of torque in the middle. the 'lude makes peak torque at 2200rpm then holds it almost level untill nearly 8000rpm with a small dip in the middle. im not saying the Z has a bad engine (i wouldnt have brought/owned/kept it if it had), im just saying i think they could have given it more. dont forget that most six-pot BMW's, astra GTE's, etc all have over 150bhp/litre standard without turbo's and they were out in 1989. the Z does give a good shove but i think with its slightly variable cams (i think a better system than honda's Vtec as they have no steps) adjusted slightly, bigger tubs and inters, it would have been a real beast. any Z over 400 genuine bhp usually gives BIG thrills. having said that, it was meant to be everything to all so it had to be quiet, have little lag, low noise, etc so it wasnt an all-out performance based car - hence the auto option, the luxury, etc.

i think it could be.... BUT... its let down by 1. its weight and more importantly power to weight - a mildly modded cavalier engine in a corsa has the same power/weight 2. its lower (like under 50mph) handling - its reluctant to turn in at slower speeds then struggles to put the torque down 3. its power to engine size - 100bhp/litre is available from a lot of N/A cars these days so a TT? it should be about 450bhp really. and 4. the most important for me is the brakes. for a potentially 180mph car weighing 1500kg+ they are dire. on stock brakes and pads, i defy anyone to emergency stop a Z from anywhere over 150mph. it simply wont. they will have faded to nothing by about 80mph and then you're left with brown staines on the seat. for me, a true supercar should be designed to have a high limit of adhesion with all the engine/chassis it needs to cope at that limit for as long as you like or until the tank runs out. ever seen a porsche/ferrari/(insert usual suspects here) that cant stop or wont turn in? this is why i doubt the veyron as being a true supercar. i think of it more as a powercar. having said that, i cant afford any of those and i love my Z too much to part anyway. its super to me. (anyone got a cheap set of skyline brakes?) ;o)

i knew it... i was right... the lad in the RS turbo cabriolet 'scort who said he'd got "240bhp, hybrid turbo, etc" (it looked like a stock T2 to me) was telling porkies. it was at least 375BHP by that chart and he was getting more stickers the next day..... monster indeed! PMSL

rover - tat. should have been better built/designed. cally turbo - ok but tx box probs and they're not that fast for what they are. V6 cally is a good one as it loses little (40ish bhp) through FWD and has a chassis to handle it (twist????- wjere did that come from? a cracker?). impreza uk turbo 2000's arent fast and are more fragile than the redtop STI/jap imports. most other jap 4x4's fall into the "nice and cheap untill it breaks" category. AVOID anything french/italian with a turbo as you will have problems unless you're very lucky. how about a corsa (i know its a chavmobile but hear me out) with a C20XE (2.0 16v)conversion? 45mpg if you're good to it, reasonable ins costs, parts cost pennies and are everywhere and they're reliable and a strong engine. also, 160bhp+in an 850kg car means 188bhp/1000kg. a LWB TTZ (300bhp, 1550kg) is only 194bhp/1000kg. i know the corsa's never going to stick with a Z at speed but for the running costs it'd be close enough to worry them. they usually do mid 5's to 60 and 145mph ish. with no turbo/4wd system to go wrong.if i didnt love my Z so much it'd be high on my list. si.

seemed to get worse as it boosted. have you had/got a blocked return pipe to your fuel tank? seems like way too much rail pressure? just a thought. hope its an easy fix.

depends how much they are and what you get. got some details, please?

does anyone know where i can get a stroker kit for the Z? there's loads for hondas but i cant find one for the VG30DETT. think i'll stay with the VG engine after a bit of a commotion over getting an infiniti engine and if im going to have to do a rebuild im going to use tasty stuff. any ideas/contacts? cheers. si. :smash:

i'd love to go but my wallet's nearly as bust as the Z and i dont fancy dragging a 405 diesel kicking and screaming round a track full of quick stuff. cheers for the offer though.

what GTO's you been racing? i've never had a problem wasting them unless its wet from a standing start. even when my tubs were smoking really bad it still killed my next door neighbours GTO (chip, induction, single 5" zorst, boost controller) Supras are just slightly slower but can keep the Z in sight and the driver will make more difference than there is in the cars. scoobys are a great car till anymore than 40mph when they lose their grip advantage and go backwards very quickley and as for sierra cossies, skyline GTS, etc... its like a Z with 2cylinders and a turbo missing, a higher centre of gravity and worse aerodynamics. course its gonna lose. i have to wander about the M3 EVO and AMG mercs though. i have been in a few and i think the M3 is quicker than the stock Z. the big AMG's also would kill a Z on a long straight (a C55 did mine and mine was at around 370bhp at the time). as for the porka's and ferrari's its a case of which model. a lot of the newer ones will have the Z just on power/weight and their handliing ability. Boxters are no prob and get eat but then they come to a corner and they are very impressive. anyone raced a TVR Cerbera? i tried. it walked away like i was in a diesel. VERY fast car. on the good side, before i blew it; Escort + sierra cossies scoobys evo 2, evo 4, evo 5 S14 sylvia (good race. i was surprised) integra type R, civic type R, accord type R, NSX (dont know which model) nova 2.016v (baaad, maaan) lol corsa 2.0 turbo (another chav) supra turbo mk3 RX8, RX-7 (batmobile one. dont know what model) yaris 1.5 (made £20 out of that. he really thought it was fast lol) a grandad in an audi S3 many more but i cant remember them. gotta fix it and do some more. :dance:

cant really tell unless you throw it on a dyno. my guess (and it is just that) going off the spec you listed and presuming its properly set up and running right would be around 380bhp. (could be between 350 and 450- like i said, its a guess) take it for a dyno run or see if there's anyone on here with the same mods? HTH. si.