siraff

just noticed, STEVO, what part of gloucester are you in? :)

thanks SRRAE. thought it was 0.7 max on first overboost? mayb just mine. the standard gauge used to read off the end of the clock when it was at 0.7 on the Greddy now its at 1.1bar on the Greddy and the standard one just cries for help.:dance: :D

forgot to mention, if it isnt modded, 1bar is way too much. it should stay at around 0.7 on full boost.

are there any mods done to it? if it has suddenly happened try looking under the big inlet pipes at the front of the engine (from intercoolers to inlets). there is a small pipe each side connected to just under them. these pipes are the wastegate actuator lines i think (???). anyhow, they are where the mig tips go if you are using them to boost it. so if one has come off or split, etc you will have no actuator pressure and it will just keep boosting until the ECU goes "OH, S#'T!!!!" and shuts it all down. otherwise, try it at less throttle to see if it is boost and not revs. if you keep it on just enough throttle to be just on positive boost you shouldnt get cut out if it is a boost prob. hope this helps as im not sure i have made it very clear. if you have any queries on what i have said, let me know. thanks. si.:confused:

whats your boost gauge reading when this happens? and do you have an aftermarket gauge?

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: @STEVO:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

sorry MAC. didnt mean it. TT Tim, hows about a truce? im not here to argue. I'd much rather have a new mate than shouting matches. No offense meant. Si.

yeah. best bet=sell the micra to fuel the Z:D if that dont work, jam the flywheel up with a strong bar/spanner, etc and try tapping the breaker-bar to undo it;)

mine too. im finally gonna become a member:dance: :dance: :dance:

and thanks, BARRY D. im on it. should be signed up in no time.:dance: :D

look. i didnt start the swearing or unconstructive criticising. no one asked you to post a load of rubbish which you are ill informed on so leave it and find someone else to annoy. this thread was started with good intentions and you seem determined to start a fight. you are a fool and i hope a moderator reads the post you just sent. if you dissaprove of people having fun, maybe you are in the wrong place? and i take it from your attitude you are a big lad? if not you really shouldnt be threatning people.:slap:

ok. for the second time you thick c#'t. I HAVENT ASKED FOR MONEY!!!!!! the idea was to make money for the club and have a laugh while doing it and i have asked MAC1 how to become a member so if you arent going to bother taking any notice of whats being said why dont you shut the f#'k up? you are obdviously looking to make yourself look big and have no intention of making a valid point. IF I HAD ASKED FOR MONEY, i would have expected the kind of silly, abusive reply you gave butsince i didnt, why dont you try reading/researching what you're on about before you go shouting off your big mouth?:slap:

just thought i'd point something else out to TT tim... this thread is in the "general discussion" forum. for "non-Z related topics" so should this forum not exist? :confused:

could it just be that the car was manufacture in 1990, sat in a compound for a year and then got finished/shipped? i know its a totally different thing but they are still selling maestro's (i think) that were made in the early '90s:eek: (obdviously a good design):rofl:

are you getting full boost? has a leak developed in the inlet? are they clogged up? (not too lokely if both at same time) sounds like a leak to me. probably between turbo's and inlet. could be horribly wrong though.:eek: try spraying something like WD40 all over the inlet seals.joints and see if there are bubbles on boost. otherwise i have no idea. :( good luck. si:)

ok. first to "mr.political" TT tim. I bet you have run for local government, havent you? The idea was to get the club involved to make it a bit more official. Im not asking for backing and if you'd bothered to look at some of the posts i've put up on this thread you would see that far from asking for it, im looking to make it a cash earner for the club. Secondly if you dissaprove of the club having events other than "drive the Z somewhere, then drive back" you are obdviously missing the point of being in the club in the first place. The idea as i understand it of any owners club is to meet like-minded people with the same interests and there seem to be more people on here that like the idea than those that dont. Thirdly if you're that desperate to slate off a perfectly good event, WTF dont you try to come up with something origional and offer that instead of shouting down other people who are trying to have fun? Sorry to all else for having that on the screen but it had to be got off my chest.:eek: ;) Now im looking at an old CRX for 300 ono:D any more offers? :)

the only Z without a rev limiter is is one which has had it removed. this goes for most cars these days and virtually all twin cam/4valve head cars. find a straight preferably with some nice tarmac and boot it till it stops pulling. the sound like a missfire is the rev limiter.:) you have just "used" the car for the first time.;) as some have said, it was designed as a sports N/A. this means the torque arrives late in the power curve for high tractive force through lower gears. basically same torque at higher revs = more power. if you have 80lb/ft at 2,000 and you gear it to do 40 mph@max torque, it will do 40mph@2,000. if you take the 80lb/ft and move it to 6,000 you will be able to run gearing of 40mph@6,000 for the same peak figures, making it accelerate through the range harder for the same speed. i know this sounds like a load of mumbling, but just remember that a honda S2000 makes 241bhp from an N/A 2.0 this is because it holds its torque for ages (it redlines at 9,000). the downside to this is that it has to sacrifice bottom end/midrange to do it. this is why N/A's get known as being "revvy"

ok. so we need somewhere to do it, a date and some backing from the club cuz i dont want to tread on anyones feet. it seems that if we ban contact we have more choice of track but im not sure if thats defeating the point? if we didnt want to touch, surely we would be driving a load of Z's around? but thats all by the by. if no contact is needed, so be it. if we say no contact and there is it has to be accidental or we may get a bad rep.;) touring cars today run on a "non contact"basis, i believe. how many of them do you see going home after a meeting without a mark?:eek: ok. tomorrow if i get time (a rarity these days) im gonna check out some circuits and what they can do/what the limits are. if anyone else can find out anything in the mean time it will probably be very helpful.:cool: cheers. si.

ok. im thinking on this one. the basics (if it goes on) would be: 1. cars must cost max £200 and be legitimately brought. 2. they must have an MOT, no matter how short on the day. 3. they must be "road legal" or at least close enough to pass the track scrutineers (if we have any). 3a. any mods by ripping the car to bits to lighten it are permissable if it isnt structurally derogatory. 4. the fee for the track time will fall to the entrants and/their spectators so the more we can get the less it will cost. 5. passengers should be allowed if the track allows it. 6. donations for the club and/charities should be taken at a minimum of £10 per entrant (only fair as it is for fun). 7. the decision of the organisers will be final. 8. NO CHEATING 9. if you're gonna cheat NO GETTING CAUGHT 10. the full rules to follow if there is enough interest and/a moderator or club type bod gives it the nod. HELP ME OUT SOMEONE!!!! :D :D

you're right there. my brother had one and it was an evil little beast. tried to spin the wheels in third (1.6GTi 'box). :D great laugh.:)

forgot to mention: my fireblade doesnt hit the limiter till 11,500rpm and takes it all day long and i bet jock's firestorm aint too far behind that so 7,000 aint much.;) and to top it off, the TT has the same rev range to play with and has 0.7bar of pressure going through it at the same time. nuff said:D

first make sure it is in good condition with all fluids topped up and clean....then...... CANE THE NUTS OFF IT!!!!! :dance: just before the limiter is the best time to change gear in almost all sports orientated N/A's. gotta agree with jock and clarkey. hammer it. it is VERY UNLIKELY that you will do damage to it by doing this. damage at these engine speeds is usually caused by low oil/water levels. go out and use it like it was designed to be.:eek: :dance:

well, fas you crazy sod, i was thinking along the lines of light to medium contact. i'd go for full but we dont want anyone hurt and its pretty hard to get hold of a free roll cage each so im thinking something like touring car rules from the early 90's? allowed light front/rear and side by side nudging but no major t-boning, ramming, etc. any thoughts from anyone?

hi, john. i been trying to contact you. im still interested in what we talked about but i do stil have to get the car running properly. all ways are pointing to a very expensive rebuild with turbo seals/tubs and probably at least 1 piston:( on the good side it should get better as i do these things and i will deffinately require the stuff we discussed. please either reply on here or to siraff@msn.com thanks. si

hope all goes ok for you. it should be something simple. im not too good with auto's but i'd hazard a guess at fluid. if it were doing it when using it as a manual tooo i'd say it was on its way but if you get good drive that way it must be something daft. im guessing wholly but i'd say the clutch actuator or whatever it uses to bite isnt getting enough fluid in drive. or the fluid's f#kt. is it changing gear ok?