Rich666

There's no bidding, just the price and the delivery...

I've got one of these http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/ctj1250a-11-4-tonne-aluminium-trolley-jack/brand/clarke where's the "enter name for link" option gone?!? it's 1.25 tonne which i reckon is ok for lifting one side - not sure I'd trust it to lift the other side when one side was on stands though...

Yeah, would be good if you could PM me - used to use a guy in chester who seems to have fale off the face of the earth!!

cheers Darrell - appreciate it. Rich

Yeah, that's the email address I tried... bounced back!

Cheers for that - will try and give him a bell this week...

Thanks, but I really need someone who knows the ins and outs of mortgages... basically need to get my name removed from my old mortgage, but struggling to get them to accept my ex's application as she's self employed...

Does anybody have an email address for mgh197, or is there anybody else on here who could possibly help with some negotiations with a lendor?!

loads of people on various forums... and here, recently, Jimmers are leaking very badly and RobH put a set in 2 weeks ago and one is stuck open, hydrolocking the engine... and I went round to help him figure out what was wrong, so that is straight from the horse's mouth!

haha - karma at work!!!

why didn't the metal cogs work??? I did mine and they were spot on...

Is it possible to buy the 110 degree polished bends anywhere, or do they only come in a kit??

Exactly - and longer term, there's going to be very few left with people breaking them left, right and centre, chavs blowing them up, and people scrapping the sheds - definitely going to be worth keeping good ones.

Think VVT was dropped when ECU's went 16bit... I know there's a different loom for 93+, so possibly some other bits and pieces, unless the only difference is VVT connections?? Have you had a look at AndyP's site??

http://www.downloadyoutubevideos.com

I lost about half of the oil - some through the exhaust, and some into the intercooler... I think the engine may have been hydrolocked as the starter clutch wouldn't engage so there was a lot of resistance. They've confirmed today that the turbo is seized, and they're quoting about £1400 to replace, then there's the possibility the cats have gone too... so £2k is about right I'd imagine :(

imho 265 is way too wide for the fronts.

RAC offer different levels too - I've got onward travel on mine, and my BM blew up on Monday and they took it to the garage of my choice - which was nowhere near where I live.

To the crank - I'm tempted to get it back and drop the sump myself and have a look... only thing is, according to them, you can't do the bearings from below so it's engine out - and my zed engine's still waiting to go in so I haven't got the time/ room to do it quick enough!! :headvswal:headvswal

why not just remove and refit the leather??

cheers - will give them a bell this afternoon!

Just wondering if any of you helpful people could offer any advice... I've got a 2004 BMW 530d (now out of warranty) with a seized turbo. It ran for no more than a minute when the turbo finally gave up, but had been smoking intermittently for a few miles. The crank is turning - feels a bit tight - but not seized and the intercooler is full of oil. Had quote in from a local specialist - £1530.00 for new turbo, flush intercooler and inspect/ flush downpipe. Problem is they still won't give me a definate answer on whether there's any bearing damage - saying they need to run it first. Anyone any experience with turbo failure on BM's? I asked about refurbing turbo and they gave the usual spiel about they will only use genuine parts etc - total *****cks and I'll probably pick the car up from them and get someone else to do it, but need to know the best options - I'm thinking that if there turns out to be engine damage, money-wise I'd be as well looking for a s/h engine...? Rich... i'm sick of turbo cars :cry:

not a good idea - water and mafs don't mix too well!! mine was knackered, so I made a new one from some flexible platic... stopped the annoying limp home mode from appearing again!

that's what I had - voltage should be 13.6 (i think) when turning over - I was surprised when mine wouldn't start cos the voltage wasn't appearing too low... fingers crossed all your engine starts have just drained it that bit too much...

that's a point rob - isn't yours an auto conversion... if so it could be a dodgy earth where the original sensor was connected??