Rich666

it's the same one... must have forgotten old log in: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=116377

it will be broken - it's a little yellow plastic clip... someone posted some images yesterday... not difficult to replace though; apparently on later models it was swapped for a metal clip, so if you can find one of those it'll be much better. Other than that, the one from the passenger side will swap accross - but if that snaps too you;ll be a bit stuck!!

says who?? is there any data?

shall we barrage him with questions...?!?!

hmm... i just went off the decription - I was actually looking for hose solutions as I'm certain they used to sell the corect one... may be worth trying them...

epracing sell them: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nissan-Z32-300ZX-stainless-steel-braided-clutch-line_W0QQitemZ290260700122QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item290260700122&_trkparms=72%3A1090|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Imports were mapped for higher octane fuel, so yes, you shouldn't use 95ron... not that you'll necessarily get better performance (VPower claim you do) - it's for better protection from detonation - which is essentially what a RON rating is... As for 11mpg, something's almost certainly wrong - unless you;re always running it around on short journeys...

they don't - they're incorporated in one unit, but each lamp has it's own projector/ housing... so indicator is still visible when any driving light is on... it may be ok, but don't think it's worth invalidating your insurance for... I assume an mot tester would know??

I think there are some regulations about indicators having a separate enclosure to main lights? Worth checking first...

I boiled my power steering fluid on a track day... I ripped out the speedo convertor and it didn't happen again, thought it might be the pump working overtime on the track as it was over-assisting... may have been a coincedence it didn't happen again tho!! Noise was very prominent, but didn't completely lose steering... As said, check fluid level first - I assume if you let it get low enough there simply won't be enough volume to maintain pressure; not sure what damage it may hav done tho...

is she trying to copy to disk from a playlist? I use itunes on a mac and if you select a single song from the library, it attempts to back up the entire library anyway... so would need a dvd (or several!!)

now that's exactly what i need... a bit of a race to get me motivated again!! THe gauntlet has been thrown! haha

erm... no, not yet!! engine's sitting on a stand waiting!!! (has been for far too long now!!)

good luck with it - they sound like jokers mate!

cancel that... just uploading a zip...

I've got the manual here as a PDF... not sure how to attache it though... PM me your email address if you want...

Really don't know where you stand... try calling the CAB for some advice: the 'good' (and I only use the word for want of a better one) is that if it's the preparation that's mainly at fault, they will find it difficult to say that you have caused any paint defects... you basically need to ensure that by taking the car back, you aren't confirming that you are satisfied - i'm sure a solicitor/ CAB would draft a letter to that effect, then the ball's in their court. One word of advice - don't be afraid of issuing county court proceedings... it's really easy, pretty cheap and, even if you come to some arrangement, it's always there a a back up if they don't come good...

To be honest, I think you need to get some legal advice... can't imagine there's any obligation for them to keep it, and it's probably in their terms that it must be collected within a set timeframe... from what i understand of what's gone on, you need to sue the original garage anyway as your contract is with them, not the last garage... they can then choose to sue the final garage... or not pay them! as for missing parts, again, it will probably be contractual - but you can sue the original garage for the cost of new parts and negotiate down if necessary.

i'd deal with the paintwork first and get a solicitor's opinion... i would assume that the original sprayer's terms would exclude consequential losses - no point paying out on another report if you're unable to claim! Shouldn't be too many problems really - although it's obviously not ideal to have a car sitting so long... tyres will probably be knackered tho!

afraid not - unless the design of the car prevents a standard plate from being fitted: i.e. there is a recess for the plate; if a standard plate fits it, you must fit one!

have you tried hammering on an impact socket- should take a bit more abuse!!

it's impossible to guess - for all anyone knows, it's got low compression all round, failed head gasket and one of the turbos is seized! If you want to know the power, you'll need to get it on a rolling road, or for an approximate figure you could try a gtech...

almost definitely dodgy!!! If you think there's a chance it could be real, you could ask for name and home address of the purchaser, say that you will only accept funds through IBAN (not western union etc) and you want a photocopy of their passport... if they're genuine it shouldn;t be a problem... BUT, like you say, why would they offer more money than you said, and why do they want to export a r-h-drive car to europe?!

you could mount the switches somewhere else... or just re-route the folding mirror switch somewhere?

he's just recommending the ones mentioned above by DTA...