JeffTT

Having been involved with breaking way too many zeds and many been UK spec, never once have I removed a diff cooler that had any sign of oil ever been in it, the cooler sits high up and for it to operate the diff has to get very very hot, this in turn activates the pump, as the diff cools the pump switched off and the oil in the cooler drains back to the diff. I believe the temperature the switch activates at is simply too high and so the system never works, again and again I have removed these coolers and inside they look clean and dry, the coolers pipe work sits a bit lower and will some times leak oil so some does make into there sometimes but not by the pump action. The pipe work coming out of the cooler is easily broken and often these can fracture in use, as a result many UK zeds diff coolers have been deleted anyway, diff failure is rare and when it does occur it usually will be caused by leaks. The other thing to consider is where diffs have failed on UK spec cars they are replaced by Jap spec ones anyway as there is more of those available, so kind of blows the argument for needing a cooler. Jeff TT

Feel for your loss, still hurting from loosing our lovely Libby last year so I know how it hurts and there is no shame in crying about it, all that man up stuff does not apply here. Remember the good times :sad: Jeff TT

Remember you also have to buy an alloy rad and a chocolate electric fan to get the full z centre experience. Jeff TT

Cheers was hoping for that too!! I am rewriting some of them to add additional pictures and tool requirements etc, also will be adding some extra bonus stuff but keeping a lid on that at the moment.:wink: Jeff TT

Have had some real fun putting these together but they have become a little fragmented now on here and other forums, whilst we get these all into one place is there anything in particular we have not done that any members would like us to do? get your thinking caps on and when the collating is done I may put together as a pdf download file on our website, I will add more info as its done. Jeff TT

No cock up would have been a deliberate act by the importer to get a newer registration, all they had to do in the early days was make a declaration if first use in Japan, this was completely un-checkable by DVLA and given boat loads of imports were landing in UK docks daily at the time they became overloaded eventually just rubber stamping any applications to get them through. I am firmly of the opinion this was a direct reason why zed prices fell sharply during this period and continue to stay lower than alternatives like Supra`s etc. because said importers sold the wrongly registered zeds at the wrong prices, lets say a genuine G. reg at the time was going for £5k they were selling what appeared to be an L or K reg at the same £5K (so it looked good value and sold quickly ) where a true K or L reg should have been £7k or £8k now what this did was to press the prices down, but artificially and they have never really recovered. of course the said importers are all gone now and on to their new scams I guess... Jeff TT

If you do not want to fit an additional switch and do not really use the rear fog lights often then pick up the supply at the rear fog relay in the black box on the inner wing on the passenger side ( its marked up) you can also fit a toggle switch there to flip between rear fog lights and front fog lights operation for MOT reasons, that way no additional switches inside of the car and easy to keep it legal MOT wise. Jeff TT

Carrying on from my poor brake thread yesterday http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?173545-fed-up-with-poor-brakes I came across a thread of mine from last year that shows quiet how bad the rear brake disc can get without you realising....maybe a job for the Winter eh? Jeff TT Bad brakes may not always be what you think. Case in point, a zed having multi jobs done had a reported poor brakes and the owner requested we change the front discs amd pads, this is a very common problem and blaming the front disc set up is not always the way to go, a quick inspection of the rear discs revealed much more. The rear of the discs condition was worse than the front, with so little pad swept area actually doing anything this transfers more load to the fronts so they end up heating up much quicker and performance drops off, as it happens the front discs and pads were ok. The inside of the discs were also in a bad way with lots of debris in there, no way could the handbrake grip and new discs was the only way forward, along with new pads and new fluid to replace the overheated soup that was in there. Jeff TT

160 mph is US spec dial fronts and 180 mph is UK spec dials. Jeff TT

Over the years we have been operating the case of mileage/km on imports has often raised its head with many doubters suggesting that all imports were (clocked ) however we have never seen any sign of that, having converted hundreds to read in MPH the speedo`s are in the main untouched whilst in Japan. The reg year or declared date of first use however is a whole different case, there was a real problem several years ago when imports were massive been declared newer than they actually were. This was aided by a near zero checking process by DVLA when these cars were registered here. Was shocking how many times I had to gently advise cusomers their new L reg zed was in fact a G 1990 hated doing it but what else to be done? helped a few customers get their money back or a replacement car by going to the garages with them armed with the chassis code date and the DVLA fraud number printed at the top of the page...amazing how helpful they became!! Nice one dkboro121 Jeff TT

The courier comes twice, once to drop off the new one and then when your ready they will collect the old one. So £225 + vat for the prop and £35 for the two way drop and collection service. Hope that helps. Jeff TT

Yes there is a postage charge that reflects that, we send you one out and collect your old one. Jeff TT

Exhaust normally needs dropping down or at least the rear section after the cats, remove heat shield, undo the prop and remove, undo but not remove totally the prop front bolts to lower the it down slightly to allow the new one piece to fit, and then tighten up and refit exhaust etc. 1 hour max on a 2 post ramp. Jeff TT

Supply only, would be giving them away if not :lol: Jeff TT

Trouble is the standard wheel kind of hides it, unlike after market larger wheels give a better view of the disc so not always clear to the owner. Jeff

They are steel but still the weight is substantially less than original unit, turn around can be a week or so at worse or a few days depending on when our next batch is been dropped off for conversion. Jeff TT

That`s the problem they did not, and the next to useless test done on brake testers for MOT did not even pick them up. Jeff TT

A thread from a few years back, price is still the same. Due to increased enquiries, we are now making available the one piece propshafts we normally fit when undertaking manual conversions. So we can supply a newly fabricated single piece propshaft for both the TT and N/A auto or manual for £225 + vat this with your prop in part exchange. The new units are fully balanced and are super smooth in operation, no more center bearing issues to worry about and at a cost similar if not less expensive than having a new bearing fitted. All of the work is done by our own fabricator so no waiting for delivery from the US and no import duty, and fully warranted. Jeff TT

Brakes or at least poor response is one of the few failings that most zed owners will agree on. I have posted threads before about this topic and with the focus on the rear brakes rather then the fronts but again I have been reminded with two zeds in a row over the past week or so with poor brake problem despite the owners fitting new pads and discs on the front. Yes the fronts take the major parts of the braking job, but with poor rear brakes the fronts will soon be over worked, so the rears need looking at and what the problem is. Seized calipers can and do occur on the fronts but not on the rears maybe seen it a couple of times in 14 years, so that aside there are some particular traits that can and do cause problems with the rear calipers. One of the zeds had the common problem of pad separation, pad burr issues and the original caliper shims fitted with after market pads. Looking at the disc condition through the wheel is the first step, and if it looks anything like the first picture chances is your rear brakes are toast and putting extra pressure on the fronts, it goes without saying the handbrake surface will be poor also if the outers are not good. There is a few reasons the rear set up fails to perform, in the main it is due to the pads fouling in the caliper section or/ and the retaining pins, also the original Nissan pads worked with two end steel anti-rattle shims, however with after market /spurious pads they can can cause the pads to not retract fully, the upshot of all of these problems is overheated pads that glaze up and discs that take on the strange look as in the photos. The recent zeds in question had the same problem of pad material separation, quite nasty but due to overheat, the pads had become stuck in the calipers due to the edge burr not been removed when fitted, aslo Nissan pads are slightly slimmer and end guards are fitted if these are fitted with spurious pads the issue of jamming is much more likely. So when fitting new pads be sure to clean the burr off the pad edge, do not refit the pad guards if fitting non Nissan pads and be sure the fixing pads are cleaned, with these precautions you should be good provided of course the discs are still in good order. Jeff TT

If a genuine question then genuinely not as much as was used to and a lot less than you think, the 300 scene is awash with zeds been broken and subsequent parts, Gumtree, ebay, forums, dedicated websites etc, the upshot is general parts such as starters, bumpers and wings etc have tumbled in price to a point that the postage is more than the cost of the part! sad but true, too many zeds are been broken now when they could have been saved, they went through a period of been worth more in parts not long back but as less are about now its flipping back the other way to been better sold as a complete car...if you can find a buyer that is. Of course any "goodies" will attract quick sales on those parts but your quickly left with 75% been really slow to move if at all. Jeff TT

Your coil pack connectors are made up of a main body, a cable separator and a top. In your upper picture the left hand connector has both the top and cable separator is missing, the right hand connector is just missing the top piece. In your lower picture the right hand two connectors in the lower picture are intact, the left hand one has the top missing. Non of the missing parts is a problem, providing all of the connectors are a snug fit and not loose then the next place to check is the ptu connections, the unit has two large connectors the main one to check is the lower left hand one as this tends to go a bit green, with the engine running rock the connector and see if the engine changes, WD40 and a craft knife or similar is all you need to clean them. Jeff TT

Lucky!!!!!!!!!

Mmm...as Jimmer said given the light coming on and an issue with engine performance it does sounds like a misfire, ptu connections, coil pack connections. See a thread below same fault same cause... Jeff TT http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?125485-Cat-light-come-on-and-exhaust-sound-changed&highlight=cat+warning+light

All good advise but with this engine not been run cannot see it been an issue. Jeff TT