JeffTT

Mmm... 1st and second are mechanically operated gears with the electronics taking over for the rest, which is why so many autoboxes with faults will still change 1st to 2nd. The buzzing is not to do with the box but another issue at with the aiv solenoids when the closed throttle switch opens. You really need to go to the next level of testing now as your box does not seem to be going into third gear. Now this will need a Conzult, lap top and an assistant, basically set up the ConZult, select the auto box screen, with the engine running you will see line pressure ( around 30 psi )and gear, don`t worry if it showing 1st gear when your stationary that us default if in drive. Go through the gear selection with your foot on the brake pedal, check to see the gear indication also changes on the lap top, then in drive again with foot on the brake pedal apply some accelerator, see if the line pressure raises. Then with an assistant manning the lap top go for a drive and allow the box and electronics to do its thing, the assistant can watch the lap top for gear changes, if it is showing gear changes into third and overdrive that suggests the electronics is trying to command the box to change, if the box is still stuck in lower gears then its a mechanical fault in the box. That said the wiring loom from the inner wing to the box should be checked, seen a few touch down on the exhaust and melt through. The above can be done without an assistant, by raising the wheels off the floor, but a lot of care is needed and sometimes is less accurate as there is no load on the drive train. Jeff

If your really stuck, be worth a punt on this one for £30, looks the same >> https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/blue-print-2892305.html or here >> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Top-Quality-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-WCPFR-183/153122512048?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan

Be interesting to know how they bolted up a twin turbo master cyliner with no booster in place ???

Your answering your own question right there ..old engine, old design, exceeding requirements does nothing, helps nothings just wastes money in my view, especially given a TT should have max 5k mikes oil change. Fs oil main criterion is to stay in grade long... and aid longer service intervals on "modern" engines, car manufacturers use this to give some of this ludicrous service intervals common place on new cars 15,000 20,000 miles ...gulp ! One of the many issues we saw on a regular basis in the workshop when using fully synthetic oil was a distinct ability to increase oil leaks where any oil leak`s already existed, for that reason alone its not a good idea to change oil types after thirty years of using a different type, of course rebuilt engine`s may well be less subject to this, that said I still would not use it in a thirty year old engine, rebuilt or not. Jeff

The clue was in the picture ...lol

Here is an interesting check done on a series of members cars several years back and just look how many needed throttle balance adjusting ! https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?154487-JAE-ConZult-results&highlight=conzult+results Jeff

Throttle balance check and adjust tech I did back in 2011, still valid today though .. https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?151303-Throttle-balance-tech&highlight=throttle+balance Jeff

Ok what you have here is a set of common issue with the zed engine, and in the main is due to poor or incorrect maintenance, there are a series of adjustments that have to be maintained / adjusted periodically to ensure the engine runs and performs as it should, many zeds have fallen foul of these problems as the engine will actually run but just not as good as it should. Often new owners who may of come from smaller engine cars will not "notice" the issue, some will of course, the issue`s also probably occur over a period of time and the old or present owner just does not notice the decline until a later date. Now this is not a new issue and have seen scores and more new owners leaving the workshop with big smiles on their face`s from just a basis check and set up on the ConZult system, however there are some basics that you can check but would 100% suggest get it to Jimmer @ PowerZedto do it correctly, the money spent will pay back in a better driving experience and likely better mpg. So the stumble or hesitancy your experiencing when pulling away will likely be a combination of things, in the main however this particular fault is caused by an unbalance in the engine, be it air, fuel or ignition. Be wary of having an un-knowledgeable garage look at it, or mates who reckon "they know" simply put, the zed engine is a mix of contradictions when setting up and requires long term experience to get it right. So to understand what is happening, when you move off, the engine will come under load, that load has to be taken into account for or the engine is in danger of stalling or hesitating such as your experiencing, so basically something that looks after that part of the engine running is not right. Lets start with basics, check the air filters, these been clogged will cause all sorts of issue`s The throttle balance, twin throttles working off a single cable, very common for the synchronisation adjuster screw to be mistaken for the idle control screw ( a little knowledge can be a bad thing ) and that will mean one throttle is leading the other, this is an air imbalance and also is a throttle sensor imbalance as the throttle sensor tells the ignition to advance to prevent stalling and hesitation, now the tps is on one side only, so if the opposite throttle is the lead one, it will feel like your ready to pull away but wait the tps is still closed ! see simple issue ..big problem. So once the throttle balance is checked the tps setting will need checking also. Timing, a retarded ignition will have the same effect, albeit slightly less, as when the tps calls for advance timing the base timing already too low and will only bring it up to normal tdc ( 15deg). Air leaks, even small vacuum type pipes can cause air in balance and even worse is mixed up vacuum pipes, this is where knowledge of the layout is required to identify if anything is wrong. Spark plugs, the heart of the ignition system, poor or old plugs will have a detrimental effect on the whole running of the engine and for a small cost is easier to replace rather than remove to inspect as it is almost impossible to know for sure if a used plug is failing or not, hesitancy when pulling away will unlikely be caused by plugs alone though. It is very unlikey that there is any real bad issues and some or all of the above would quickly sort the issue out, also unless your really committed to spending hours and hours / days and months studying, don`t second guess what has taken some many years to understand, with especial attention to the various diagnostic systems such as ConZult, brilliant kit for this kind of trouble shooting and for those who know how to use it correctly, for me only tow two people come to mind that applies to, one is in Bristol and the other in Portugal ! lol Jeff 1 Throttle balance 2 Throttle position sensor 3 Throttles clean 4 Timing ignition timing 5 Air leaks Basic checks Air filters mixed vacuum pipes Options Spark plugs Deeper issues Timing belt ( timing issue ) Injectors egr valve ( open )

No not saying fully synthetic is a bad thing, just that the spec is in excess of requirement, given that the turbo engine oil should be changed every 5k miles then there is no need to over spend on long life oil. Jeff

Bargain Shell Helix at Eurocarparts ( via ebay ) 5 litre`s for £15.99 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shell-Helix-HX7-SAE-10W40-Part-Semi-Synthetic-Car-Engine-Oil-A3-B4-5L-5-Litre/232880236089?hash=item3638be6639:g:4KQAAOSwFqpbbA9E

Just to claify, the first link is for fully synthetic and this is not required, semi synthetic is more than enough, in fact what Garry has used is semi, as denoted by the can colour been white rather than silver. Castrol GTX Ultraclean 10w-40 A3/B4 Semi Synthetic Engine Oil - Jeff

Yes all done, nice one. Thanks Jeff

Seems to be still no, there is no edit button still, tried adding a new post and still the same. Jeff

Yes agree get it to Jim for a check over, will pay for itself. Jeff

The only one I ever came across were Splitire, fitted a few sets that customers had purchased themselves, but with no back to back detailed testing very difficult to say if they are better or not, given they are more expensive than stock Nissan coil packs the assumption is they are better or is that just a marketing ploy ?? Jeff http://justjap.com/splitfire-direct-ignition-coil-packs-sf-dis-009.html

Perfect !!

New to the club

Why is the edit button not always available? the odd replies I have made on others post are missing the edit button once posted, so if I miss something or make a typo I cannot correct it ? Jeff

Weird double post and cannot edit ?? http://gtr-registry.com/en-300zx-z32-uk-europe.php

Build date info for import zeds https://www.japan-partner.com/check-manufacture-year.php Build date infor for UK and European zeds - - - Updated - - - Whoops missed this link https://www.japan-partner.com/check-manufacture-year.php

Oh yes quite different see here >> Jeff

So a few years in the Algarve sun has seriously effected the Audi Q5 daily headlights, I tried dealing with it myself, following many Youtube video`s but even with kits the results were less than effective, anyhow was introduced to a guy who comes to your home and warranties his work for two years ! And so to the before and after, I am in awe of how easy he made it look, little over an hour and both lights restored to almost new looking, and UV protective coating applied and all for just 50€ bargain and well pleased, the drl`s are going to loo well brighter now ! Jeff

This ignition powered on relay unit is designed to work on with drl`s and that is exactly what I used it for, and there is a bonus of been able to dim them when you switch on full headlights the same as factory fitted ones, although I did not do that, the 20 second off timer is cool too as it also mimics factory fitted drl`s. It will save you a lot of time and install neatness is straight forward, was able to hide mine completely. Jeff

This is a quirk of fitting a UK speedo to the Jap spec car`s, both of my zeds did this, and the first one was in the mid nineties so not a new issue, never bothered my that much so left it. The unit making the dong can be disconnected easily by removing the two screws holding the speedo hood on top and the unit is right there,however this also means the lights on alert will be disconnected. You can snip the cable just for the speedo issue separately if you wish, sure some one here will know the cable colour. Jeff

Ignition on feeds are few and not always the best supply to directly use, I had a problem with the same ignition on supply on my Bmw and ended up using an auto sensing relay. Works perfectly, senses the alternator output when the engine is started, also stays on for 20 seconds after engine off, cheap and very effective, connect to the battery and away you go. Here is the e-bay link >> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-RELAY-HARNESS-DRL-CONTROL-AUTO-LED-CAR-DAYTIME-RUNNING-ON-OFF-LIGHT/273583706355?hash=item3fb2dc10f3:g:j5IAAOSwmkBb~nIa:rk:2:pf:0 Jeff