RichardS

Ford Cortina, Escort, Focus, VW Beetle and Austin Mini FFS :rolleyes: They should have been consigned to the dustbin :tongue: RUBBISH!!!!! It's like when you go to a classic car show and see an Allegro or Morris 1000 or even the Minor. They're not classics they are shitty old rust-buckets for people over 100 to drive. A real classic is a DB5, Ferrari GTO or E-type :cool: For the more affordable classic then how about the Mk2 Jag, series 1 XJ6, Truimph TR6, MBG or even a Mk1 Capri 3000. These people should try asking real car enthusiasts what cars have made an impression on them Richard :p

Buy it now for £9000 - feck off :xxx: It's a 1995 import with "77K miles :rolleyes: " Dealers are selling Uk spec R reg 3000 gts with 50k GENUINE miles and documented history for that price. Plus you'd get a warranty and alegedly protection under the sale of goods act. Still some daft twat wil buy it no doubt - taken in by the e-bay bug :rolleyes: Richard :tongue:

Plenty of low-down grunt in a ZX tt mate - the twin turbos are of the hybrid variety and not too big, so they spool up quicker. The pull from 2000rpm is adictive and leaves most cars dissapearing in the rear view mirror with minimal effort. But the overtaking ability from say 3000rpm is awesome! I couldn't have put it better than Legrath said earlier :cool: Richard :)

I have a UK spec which had "twin Turbo" on one side and "Nissan" on the other - can't remember which way round. Anyhoo, when I had the fibre-glass replica OEM spoiler fitted I just put a black/chrome "twin turbo" badge on the right side. I've replaced the nose panel with a J-spec one so there are no Nissan badges on the car at all. I too love it when people ask what it is - they just don't believe it could be a Nissan :dance: Richard :cool:

Would this really cause a problem? After all a decent synthetic oil will cling to relevant areas anyway, plus if it has a low "w" number (say 5w or even 0w) the oil is less viscous enough at low temperatures to circulate quickly from start-up and minimise damage. If you're worried then just start the engine and let it run for a minute a couple of times a week if you don't use the car. Just my thoughts... Richard :cool:

A bloody good reg number though :dance: Richard :cool:

That would make the ZX a target then - to look at one you just know it holds lots and lots of petrol :cry: Richard :( :tongue:

Could the dealer have lied on the year when registering the car? Surely not :rolleyes: Richard :tongue:

Me neither, bunch of immigrant welcoming arse shagging :xxx:s Another fuel crisis will do little to them in the long term. Look at the 2000 blockades - Labour was so unpopular in Sept 2000 due to fuel taxes etc but all that was forgotten come the June 2001 election :mad: Richard :cry:

Sad but true there Mac. Otherwise I'm all for it just to give the government a bit of a bloody nose - but please leave it until after 24th :smash: I'm taking the ZX (and wife :rolleyes: ) on holiday that week and I want to be able to re-fuel it :tongue: Richard :cool:

What informed reading NOT :tongue: I mean all that bullshit about camera sitings and how well they are calibrated and that mobile cameras operate accurately in all conditions, only needing to focus on a wing mirror :rolleyes: Exactly what the scamera partnerships want motorists to believe - that technology is 100% infallible. That way you just admit all and pay-up. Totally unbiased IMO :p Richard :smash:

It is a perfectly normal thing to do if you do not need a ltd company. However it would have probably been in Ryan's interest to have kept the dormant company on record at Companies House. Dormant companies no longer have to prepare and file accounts, they can just submit a DCA10 form. The only annual cost is the 363 annual return filing fee of £30 (£15 online). That way Ryan could have maintained some protection over the name Ztech and had a company ready to use should he decide to go limited later. Plus he'd have saved himself the agravation the dissolution of Ztech Ltd has caused him. Good to know he is still up and running :dance: Richard :cool:

Fekking savages. At least have the decency to humanely kill the animals first :shock: :hurl: Richard :mad:

Fekkin hell :shock: You'd need a lot of flour to roll her around in to find the right spot :tongue: Richard :smash:

Hey Si You've got a Z now so it shouldn't be a problem - remember that bus load of student girls we saw on the test-drive :p Sweet!!! Anyway I've never tried speed dating, internet dating etc but I believe it does work nowadays. (eeeh, you young whippersnappers!! :rolleyes: ). If not at least you get to meet lots of women at the same time - just take it all in a laid back manner, have a good laugh and see what happens. Remember two things: 1. Women can sense desperation and find it a turn off 2. Women who are themselves desperate & just don't want to be left on the shelf, want babies & commitment just coz their mates have it and they don't, should be avoided and are a turn-off for us. Failing that, plenty of sheep in Glastonbury :tongue: Richard :cool:

Nice reply Dave :p Richard :dance: :tongue:

Ditto - very good stuff. And only a couple of pounds or so in Sainsburys :cool: I polished the seats up with Autoglym leather conditioner after and they look as good as new :cool: :cool: Richard :)

Maybe so mate but personally I'd trust Mazda reliability over Rover anytime - MGF never fared well on JD Power surveys, unlike the Jap cars. But ultimately you can have good and bad examples of any car - just pay your money and take the chance..... Richard :)

I would agree with this too Mark. If you use a high quality fully synthetic 3000 mile changes are definately overkill. In fact the oil doesnt have sufficient time to clean and remove scum and impurities etc. On a fairly stock engine I'd say 5000 miles is more than frequent enough. Most mechanics I've spoken to second that.... Check the colour of your oil at 3000 miles - if like mine it is still gold then a change is not due. After all Nissan recommend 6000 mile changes on a semi-synthetic but I wouldn't risk that on a high performance twin turbo'd engine. :eek: Richard :)

How often do you use it? I sometimes get a slight rattle for 1-2 seconds after start-up if I haven't used the Z for over a week, but only sometimes. The oil pressure guage shoots up to around 1/2 way between 60 and 90 psi (approx 3/4 to max on the stock guaue) immediately and the rattle goes. If I use the car every day then there is no rattle at all. Richard :)

Nice one Si :dance: The 300zx is sooo adictive. When I haven't used it for a week I sometimes thing about replacing it with something newer, but when I get back in it and drive barely the first couple of yards down the road and realise why I keep it. I have told Julia I honestly do lover her more than my ZX but she knows it's close, very close :x: Good luck with the new job too, mate. Richard :)

I've not seen Optimax at more that 99.9p per litre yet. The average near me is about 93p for regular u/l and 98p for Optimax. Richard :)

There was a buyers guide in Japanese Performance a while back. Basically they are sound reliable cars so just the usual things one would look for buying any used car will apply. I guess the condition of the roof is pretty important and evidence of cambelt change at 60k miles etc. Leigh at Jap City (see traders) had a very nice J-spec with leather etc on an "s" plate for around £7k a while back. I saw it at the last Slough meet and it was a very nice car - luckily Julia never saw it as she wouls have wanted me to buy it...... Richard :)

Sounds like the lifters. They are hydraulic so unless they are full of oil they will be noisy. 1st thing to do is an oil and filter change, decent clean oil can work wonders for curing minor engine noises. What oil do you use? anything with a higher "w" number than 10 (as in 10w40) is too thick and will not circulate quickly enough from cold. I've also read on here somewhere that a little auto transmission fluid (and I mean a little - 30ml or so) poured into the engine oil can help. Don't quote me on that though unless someone else can support that it works. Richard :)

In the case of Mobil-1 it is (as I think mobil-1 is shite) but the "40" refers to viscosity when hot, which is Nissan's recommendation. I use Shell Helix ultra 5w40 with no problems at all. If you have a modified engine though, the extra heat generated will require a "50" or even "60" oil. The "w" number is viscosity when cold - ie how quick will the oil circulate around he engine upon start-up. Especially in winter. The lower the better, Nissan recommend a 10w so the Mobil 15w is too thick from start up and should be avoided. Anything lower than 10w is fine though - better probably. Richard :)