Smithy

Unfortunately at work here i can't see pics used through the likes of photobucket etc, will have a look later when i get home. But in the mean time, is car still not starting ? Have you done an ECU diagnostic check ? smithy

No no never assume just because something worked fine before, it should work fine now. Especially if you wern't the long term owner of either vehicle taht's being used. It's a big job you've undertaken here with much altered and swapped around etc Often is the case with something having never been moved or removed in years and the 1st time it is, bang it don't work. Lets just stick with the ECU for a mo, do not put the N/A one in as it's set for lower cc injectors so it's gonna run rough as fook anyway. The TT ECU you have fitted, remove the plug and resit it in again. Do ANY lengine ights stay on when the car starts ? If it doesn't start do the sensor clean and fuel pump fuse as i said earlier and then tell us the answer about starting and engine lights. Yes as Legrath says, check the looms and coil packs, again assume nothing mate, always confirm something is working correctly by your own process of elimination and testing. Can you take a few pics close up of the engine bay that show us how things are connected? Did the garage or you remove ANYTHING at all from the TT engine before fitting in the N/A shell ?? smithy

Hiya, no fraid i didn't Athene. Jeff said his were bouncing back too, but the usual ones are coming through. weird! smithy

(http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=36292) Half way down the page on the link above is the instructions, just in case :) smithy

A massive air leak would make it idle and run like a bag of spanners, but you should be able to keep the engine running by blipping the accelerator. You should always ensure it's boost leak free though as they can mask over other problems and vice versa. Everything pipewise is connected? Which ECU is it now running ? and is it chipped? finally any engine lights staying lit up once started? smithy

It's either flooding due to a kanckered/dirty sensor on the front rad pipe or the ECU is not registering all the sensors. Remove the larger of the 2 sensors on the rad pipe out of the front of engine, clean both the connector and the sensor it self. Re fit and remove the fuel pump fuse again, try to start a few times then refit fuse. Car should now start. If it dies again and runs that bad on idle after doing this, then suggests ECU. Is it chipped? It floods very easy, so you may have to do the same process a couple of times. A dodgy MAF will still allow the car to start and idle, it just won't actiually run over 2500 revs when driven, so it can't be that. smithy

Faults 1-5 boost leak symptoms, so do the test and do it now! :) smithy

What yer mean exactly, yours is a twinturbo so has that set up on, or you meaning something else like :) smithy

Not a single one mate, in fact if you pay for coilovers a similar price to what Legrath is proposing you should get, you'll get the crappiest ones. But in short, they can be a very harsh ride. KYB's and Eibachs is by far THE most common suspension upgrade on a Zed going :) smithy

The ECU should really be re set with any modification that alters air or fuel to the system. If anything it's been registering for a long time a decline in air entering as the old panels got older and clogged up, now you want it to suddenly register an increase over the best possible stock reading. To ensure it does it correctly and right away too, a re set ECU is the best option :) cheers smithy

If you ain't done already, it's worthwhile re setting the ECU now so it starts learning the new influx of air :) smithy

Done ;) smithy

Directing cold air to the filter makes it a cold air intake kit. The car with teh 2 induction kits is obviously of high power. The stock ARM is good for just under 500bhp, but by seperating the intakes you can increase the amount of potential bhp, ssubject to other mods of course. smithy

Yep as that's all can be fitted with our intake design. Reason though that the Apexi comes out tops with Blitz up there too, is because they are dry filters and our AFM must use really a dry filter with good filtration. The hot wire inside is very sensitive. smithy

Aye spot the TT and N/A rad brackets being used, spends thousands on his car apparantly, lol Love to see the engine spec :rolleyes: smithy

Jeff's post above was referring to using the N/A pulley as well, (i hope) but as you've swapped over the entire TT engine and i assume complete with bottom pulley attached etc, then you would still use the TT belt. It's only the hicas that needs blocking off as your in an N/A shell. smithy

Yup! ;) smithy

Hey that's my old one he got there. Bought it of me at Peterborough some years ago. But yer right about the horror though Si, however the sterring wheel ain't to blame for that :D smithy

The only thing the pump has to line up with is the pulley which is already attached to the engine. The N/A set up will have a hose missing, but that's only needed if your keeping the hicas. smithy

The 350Z has the same functions, should be able to get it to work? you can always whip out the airbag. smithy

Now just to confirm the part is fooked that i think is fooked inside your ECU, stick it in the other Zed you have there. It should start the 1st time, but not any more thereafter. If it happens like i say, there is a way to byass the fault yours had until another ECU comes your way. Glad it's sorted though bud ;) cheers smithy

Jesus mate, say yer cash. That car will never make it's buy it now price and deffo is never gonna be worth the claimed 7K when painted! The spec is also iffy, very very few 3.2l zeds in the UK and with no named parts to back this up either, i'd be concerned. Keep looking mate, seriously :) smithy

Just checked your rides out, you still got a super chips chip in there ? smithy

Do it yourself mate, only takes 10mins or so. That link i posted shows you how ;) smithy

Nope! you really need to see if there are any error codes. Cos usually with the fan being on and an engine light, it's detecting a fault http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/tech.aspx smithy