Smithy

There is of course one advantage of the engine transplant Alan, the mileage. Jeff will tell you what the other engine is and you can then later advertise that the car is now using a fully serviced and gauranteed engine with X amount of miles. This in itself should install some confidence to prospective purchasers more than you simply replacing the shell's yourself, IF that's what it turns out to be. Just an idea incase you considered that route a bit more ;) smithy

Well from past research i've done, Nissan seemed to suggest 82 was the ideal running temp for optimum performance. So 83 is a wee bit early to be honest. It;s only meant to come on when it reaches a point above the suggested level, but before the suggested maximum level, which is 92. So 87 actually would be bang in the middle and certainly many Zeds are running mid to high 80's. I think little things like what type of coolant some peeps use might determine the odd degree or two as well, some cheaper coolants are just winter and some more decent branded stuff are summer/winter coolant. Also checking the overflow tank is partly filled (paseenger side) and finally whilst parked on a slope (upwards) open the radiator top bleed screw for any excess air bubbles with teh engine running and some warmth in the rad. Just little things to ensure everything is in tip top condition if you know what i mean ;) smithy

Hence why i said about all your pipes mate, depending on certain ones not being connected right, it will run like a bag of shite!! But you will only make matters worse by stop/starting and running for a few seconds, trust me you'll be back at square one again. So don't start it again until you can run it properly, fit the rad and coolant etc and check yer pipes. smithy

Luke also does a particular shroud that fits that fan kit mate, i know cos i helped him do it ;) So ask him on a price for it. However, it is only there to ensure that the electric fan works at it's most efficient and many run a fan without the shroud as Luke is the only supplier in the UK/Europe who offers a shroud with his fans. Am still thinking something else with yours mate, so let us know about the temp readings you get with the conzult. Oh and if it was mine, i'd have it come on at a MAX of 88 :-) smithy

As you said in post 1 that you are fitting the rad or have done so already, you run the engine once it's fitted and you've filled it with water/coolant the best you can. So do that and then ensure all your pipework around the entire engine bay is fully clipped up nice and tight, making doubly sure than when you look under the various rubber pipes and intake pipes, that the bottom section of rubber is on just as much as the top section. Once your happy with all that, i think you'll find a lot of the running issues will be sorted. Either way i would strongly suggest a boost leak test being done followed by a proper conzult test. Do these before you fanny around with owt else and this is assuming EVERYTHING else is connected. smithy

Are you a 100% certain the settings are correct in when it comes on ? Just stick with the electric one for a wee while longer till you know for certain. Then we can look at what temps the car is really running at with the conzult and possibly address the problem then, if there is one. Whilst your waiting, it might be worth just opening the bleed valve on the top of the koyo with the engine running to see if there's any air there, only take a minute or two ;) smithy

So why didn't you whip out the front 4 spark plugs ? quicker than removing the intake hoses once the coil packs are off. smithy

God i wish someone would make this link a sticky! Do this mate, only takes 10mins then let us know what code your getting. http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html smithy

Also if you should fancy an almost drive in drive out feature and with a gauranteed price and workmanship, click the link and a 3rd down the page is the turbo special http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzd.html Handy if your like me, just want the easy, quickest and less hassly way to do things :D smithy

The company selling the kit have built up quite a good reputation for selling brake kits, so that's a plus point. Price wise is okay too. As stated and they ain't the first to be guilty of this, friggin crap not up to the job looking brake brackets. Now i ain't saying they don't do the job, cos obviously they do, they just look like they are better suited to a kids BMX. Seen others just as bad though. If cash is a problem, i could suggest Danny's bracket kit and you source your own GTR sized discs. When and if you ever come across a set nice GTR Brembo calipers one day, hey presto you will already have the discs, wap the new calipers on and sell your old brackets, job done :dance: As said though mate, decent working calipers and fresh fluid can make some difference. Smithy

TBH mate i think your 3K is just about do-able. Don't think your engine was uprated in anyway before was it ? Jeff does a fully serviced and gauranteed engine swap for 1.5k, so a 3K car with the new engine fitted is now pretty much set up with a lot of peace of mind. That's something we don't often get when buying a zed that's best part of 20 years old. So in short, providing any prospective purchaser sees it in the way i've just said it, they could be on to quite a decent motor and a far higher chance than the average punter, for trouble free motoring. ;) Good luck which ever way you do it. Laterz Smithy

Geez, fair balls to yer mate, awesome job and very well done ;) Fraid am with Si though, that version of the Veilside is my most hated front end ever, your big cooler helps towards making it better though, would love to see it with the older version as in the pic above :) Oh noticed your water sensors are the opposite way around, any reason or just the way that they went back in ? cheers smithy

For a top bloke on these babies mate, John Dixon. He maps the car to run at it's best but also for either a torquey motor or high BHP, it's your choice. I went for a high torque power rather than high bhp. Yep he'll tweak the boost controller to suit and the guy running the rollers will be on hand to see that all other things in the engine are as they should be. John then burns this onto a chip and taht chip is suited specificaly to your car and your set up :) smithy

Personally i think 1.5 is a wee bit too much. I run 1.2 and went up to 1.5 on teh rollers and actually lost power, that's highly possible when mapping. As your zed hasn't been mapped as such as far as i know?? Then without it, i would leave at a safe and reliable 1 bar until an expert who knows what he's doing raises it whilst using other gadgets to check what needs chacking :) Man after what you paid for building the thing, geez don't fook it up by messing with it :p Oh and i think your chip was done by ztech but he said he was going to map it to suit your car ? cheers smithy

The front 4 spark plugs are so easy to whip out and clean, your engine has been mega flooded with cranking over all the time. For the sake of 10mins, whip these ones out and give em a clean. Ideally all 6, but the front 4 will make a massive difference. Glad to see what you done made a difference though eh :) smithy

If a stage 3 to you means bigger turbo's and injectors then the RPS Max street, if stock sized turbo's and injectors then the RPS Sport street :) smithy

Turbo's are only a 4 bolt design mate, way too small for any serious power to match the fueling side of things and to be honest imo, the AEM ECU would be wasted on such piddly little blighters as i'd be surprised if you exceeded the limit of the MAF. Cheers smithy

TBH, the sensor ain't much at all and it usually comes with a new connector and a short bit of wire. Even if it turns out to be a break in a wire somewhere, it's still worthwhile changing the sensor as it's the biggest pain in the arse sensor on the zed. I've changed mine simply as a matter of cause... smithy

You need the invertors wired in mate, if you do it as per the instructions in the link and still not working, let me know. smithy

When using the an electric one in place of the viscous one, ideally it should stay in place. The new electric one that you fit kicks in at a lower temp whereas the sub fan kicks in as a last resort and at a much higher temp,if it was me, i'd leave it in and connected, it also works for the aircon if you have it. I think now you know where the problem is, your more than halfway there. You just have to work out if it is just dirty enough still to not register at the ECU or if water should be present and if the electric sub fan not being present either is playing a part. But in short, while the ECU is reading a fault on that circuit, the engine floods each and every time you try to start the car. So least you know why now :) cheers smithy

Well as regards teh sensor it's meant to read 2-3K-Ohms when cold in order to work and register with the ECU. TBH, to me it's either faulty or dirty which causes it to go like this. Just one other thing, the electric sub fan that sits infront of the rad, are you still using it and i assume the one of the N/A shell ? not that it's a biggie, just that it it is in the same wiring circuit. smithy

ECU is very accurate and yep the larger of the 2 connectors and it's usually yellow. Both the connector and the sender need cleaning and yep it's the water inlet pipe that goes in between the cam covers :) You can then if you want re set the ECU so that it reads any fresh codes. smithy

Lol now do yer believe me :p It will not fire up with that being faulty, clean as much as possible both sides, the connector and the sensor side then remove fuel pump fuse. Try to start car a few times, replace the fuse and she'll fire up. Once it's running you can sort out any boost leaks, but i'll be surprised it is any where as near lumpy as it was before ;) If your clocks were fitted an engine light would have been on and if you had/still have the electric sub fan?? that would also be on all the time with the ignition. smithy

****! Where were you 10 years ago when i needed yer :D 20K laterz and am still spending :o smithy

Well for now mate i will say, it don't like being started on and off all the time and tested etc. It is the biggest cause of flooding and through the ECU temp sender and after you saying it fired up after removing the fuel pump fuse, it kinda confirms it. Whilst it does run it will dump shit loads of fuel in to cool temps down because it things it's overheating. Takes just 10mins to do an ECU check and makes NO difference at all on the various intake pipes etc being fitted correctly. http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html Go on shoot off now, i'll go and have a fag and when i come back I wanna see what the fault is :p smithy