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dixonjohn

Dormant Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by dixonjohn

  1. I discovered that the Zed I bought recently has a K & N Induction kit on it. So I notified the insurance company (direct line) who told me that my premium would go up £36 a year and the excess would go up £100. Seems a bit steep for an air filter that potentially gives about 12 hp more. I am tempted to see if anyone wants to swap it for a stock one. (the mounting flange has a crack, but seems solid enough) John
  2. Be careful, there are many cheap films out there, and if it all goes wrong, the cheap films are diffult to get off. When I bought my Z 2 months ago, visibility out the back window was so poor (not because of the colour, but because it all "pinhole" blistered) that it had to come off. I tried all the methods of film removal, ammonia, sugar soap, etc. they softened it a bit, but the only way it would come off was scraping with a razor blade in a holder. The imports have the rear window defroster stuck on the inside, so I have probably ruined it in the process. John
  3. Take the t-top off, use silicone starting about 6" in from the corner on the top of the seal attached to the car, continueing round the corner to the "z" joint where the 2 seals meet. I also found that the top rubber seal (where the top of the window contacts) over the years gets compressed. Get some black rubber sealant and apply a bead of it on the vertical area of the rubber seal. Smooth it out with your finger, using soapy water to help it to glide over the sealant giving a lovely smooth finish. Keep dipping your finger in the soapy liquid often, otherwise it will snag and pull and look like s**t. John
  4. Robin, By the way, t-tops still dry, looks like your silicone did the trick. Thanks John
  5. Thanks Robin, I will try that tommorrow, I did not realise it was on a taper. Cheers John
  6. I have just checked mine, and the Nissan workshop manual, fule filter is an in line canister with inlet and outlet opposite each other in the centre line of the canister.....could'nt get much more in-line than that. John
  7. Those damned wipers!! I have been trying to get them off for weeks so I can repaint the scuttles. I even made an extractor out of 'C' section steel, about 2.5mm thick steel, with a 5/16" bolt. The 'C' section just started to open up. After taking the plastic cap and the nut off, the threaded rod is bright nickel finish, so I doubt the splines are rusted. Any suggestions ? Cheers John
  8. Are'nt the stock ones inline ? John
  9. On the subject of rusty sills, does normal jacking the car up from the sill cause enough scraping to warrant painting and re-coating the sills from time to time? John
  10. Hi, My recently purchased 1992 300zx was imported into the UK about 3 years ago. Is it advisable to get it undercoated, and if so, are there different types and quality of undercoating ? I imagine the underneath must be pressure washed, is the coating they put back some kind of 'elastomeric bitumen' type of coating or what ? How are zeds generally when it comes to resisting rust (I remember the 240z was a real 'rust bucket') I would have thought the zeds to be good on this matter, but there is a new post from a zed owner saying his zed is rusted beyond repair. Thanks John
  11. Also, is the rear gearbox mount more accessible with the front or rear on axle stands ? I was thinking of trying those car ramps from Halfords, anyone tried them ? John
  12. Thanks Jack, I would prefer to just replace the gearbox mounts, a lot less labour and cheaper parts. Does the fact that it seams to be better when its been running for a while suggest that it might be the bearing ? (expanding when hot, or could this principal be aslo true of the mounts ?) Thanks everyone, John
  13. Steve, You wrote: "Definate propshaft problem so I opted for a new once piece steel prop shaft made by a company called reco prop based in Luton, Beds. http://www.reco-prop.com This is a cheaper alternative to replacing the centre bearing and also the other aluminium / carbon option for the states." Surely this is more expensive (£350 + labour) than replacing the centre bearing? Is the bearing (and mounts) strictly a Nissan part, or does anyone know of an alternative supplier ? Surely it would not be worth importing one fron the States, with the duty, vat and other fees ? Thanks John
  14. I have had all the wheels balanced. The vibration in the seat back is sort of 'metallic' , its hard to describe. No vibration at all in the stearing wheel. John
  15. Thanks everyone......I will have to get it sorted out soon before it gets much worse. Cheers John
  16. Thanks Jonny, Where is the centre bearing located ? What do you have to remove to get to it ? Any special tools needed ? Where can I get all the bits from ? How long did it take you ? Thanks John
  17. I have searched the previous posts on vibration, non seam to be exactly like mine. I can feel vibration in the seat back which starts at about 40 and ends at about 50 or 55, and it does not seem to occur after been run for a while. Does this rule out prop shaft bearing ? If this bearing was gone would it get progressively worse with speed ? I have only had the car a couple of months, I have not had the prop shaft off, but I dont know if the previous owner did. Thanks John
  18. Thanks That certainly has cleared that up, now I know exactly what it has stock and what needs to be done Cheers John
  19. Thanks Andy, Looks like a lot of work, with some delicate attention to detail needed, but I guess it has to be done. Cheers John
  20. Yes, But I think the import autobox is cooled from within the radiator isnt it ? John
  21. Thanks both of you, Matty, did you buy the kit from Z Centre with all the hoses and brackets ? Isnt the problem with the imports that they have no oil coolers at all, so adding one to the box is more difficult (no existing brackets or hoses to hook on to) Thanks John
  22. My odometer has suddenly stopped working, but the trip odometer works. Has anyone experienced this ? The cable must be fine, does anyone know to fix this ? Thanks John
  23. Do you think it is advisable to fit an external automatic transmission oil cooler to my import ? Even though it has made it through its 11 year life without one. So far the box seems ok, but I would like to prolong its 'death'. Which also reminds me, what were Nissan thinking of when they designed the autobox sump without a drain plug ? Thanks John
  24. No! Not Jeff...........I hope he stays, but after all this ? Try and put it behind you Jeff, you have a lot of friends here. John
  25. Just because we dont have any rules does not mean that we (I mean the people who run/host the forum) cannot ban the jerks! The forum can do anything it likes. Put it to a vote, lets see what everyone thinks. John

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