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dixonjohn

Dormant Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by dixonjohn

  1. Thanks Fastredz, Bumpers sound like they can be a bit tricky to install, especially as I use my car daily. Maybe I will get an old banger to get me around in, so I could take my time with mods. Pictures would be nice. I was interested in doing a front bumper, how long do you reckon it took you ? Thanks John
  2. How difficult is it to fit front bumper, side skirts and a rear spoiler ? Do they all have to be sprayed after fitting in place ? Thanks John
  3. .........and its still only modified mineral, sounds like a bit of a con. John
  4. from what I have read, fully synthetic (Like mobil 1 and castrol RS) is still only a modified mineral oil, and not synthetic at all. True synthetic is very expensive and cannot be mixed with any form of the "so called" fully or semi synthetics John
  5. Rob, Do you want to sell the pan bolts ? How much ? Thanks John
  6. Thanks everyone, Can I re-use the existing pan bolts ? I went to the local Nissan dealer to get the pan gasket. He had to order one, he said they were about £20 or £25 ........that seems like a lot, what have any of you paid for one ? John
  7. I was going to change the auto transmission fluid this weekend. I was wondering if anyone knows if the Jap (mine) pan gasket is the same as the UK gasket ? (In case I get blank looks from the local Nissan dealer) Is there anything else I should buy while Im there ? Thanks John
  8. Dave, I would be interested to talk to them. Are you saying that they sell a prop shaft with a new bearing for £150 ? Apparently the prop shafts are a b**ger to separate. Also I understand the exhaust has to come off. John
  9. Dave Mine has the same symtoms you describe. I replaced the gearbox mount, but putting the old one side by side with the new one - the old one looked fine. I still have the classic 30-50 mph vibrations, worse when cold, so I guess it must be the centre bearing, and I have heard that can be a b**ch of a job. John
  10. Paul, I have a Jap auto, is changing the transmission fluid a pain ? (no drain plug on imports) Thanks John
  11. Whats a lower arm...........advertised on e-bay "DRIVERS SIDE FRONT LOWER ARM FOR NISSAN 300ZX COMPLETE WITH BALL JOINT BRAND NEW GENUINE NISSAN PART WAS £160.00 BID NOW" John
  12. Robin, It must be my imagination,.its fast enough, idles smooth at 700 rpm.......Jeff at Zed World did it. But I suppose it could not hurt to reset ECU. Thanks John
  13. Robin, It may be my imagination, but it seems to lack a bit of punch since the cam belt change, I change petrol all the time, sometimes Optimax, sometimes standard stuff. Thanks John
  14. Thanks, I will give it a go. John
  15. How do you reset the ECU on a 300zx? On my MR2 it was unplugging the relays and fuses etc. Thanks John
  16. I think you must be referring to the 2 inlet pipes, if so, Jeff did replace them, along with the thermostat. Thanks John
  17. Thanks Mark, Do I view these from underneath or from above ? (Not sure where they are) Thanks John
  18. While underneath the car yesterday changing the tension rods I did notice a drop of antifreeze at the bottom of the pan near front pulley. Could this be from the water pump? When I had the cambelt changed a couple of months ago Jeff did say that there was a bit of play in the pump bearing, but I did not have it changed (I know I should have) How big a job is changing the water pump? whats involved it it? Thanks John
  19. After looking at the old one, I can see why I am noticing a big improvement. John
  20. Yes Tim, I should have known. At least with the car on ramps, its easy to put a block of wood under the frame and jack the car up with a hydraulic trolley jack. Cheers John
  21. Simon, Took it for a test run, feels great, you can even feel the difference around the side roads. I thought only one of my Nissan tension rod bushes was gone (because it was leaking) but the other side was even worse, looked liked it had leaked years ago and now was dried out and cracked. Thanks, John
  22. got it.........had to jack up the frame in order to spring the wheels. Got the tension rods on, but 2 of the bolts sheared off that hold the plastic undertray, so had to leave it off. Is it advisable to keep the tray on? I will have to remove the snapped bolts, are any of you running without the tray? Thanks John
  23. Just took my tension rods off.......when they come off the wheel springs forward a bit, so holes do not line up, car is on ramps, how do I get the holes to line up? Thanks John
  24. No........steel off the shelf ramps are useless.........you end up planking accross........jacking them up..........making a very unstable ramp...........when you drive your car on them they slide................and for £33 you could build a great set of stable ramps John
  25. Tony, Im no chippy either, thats why I had the timber merchant cut everything to size (the £33 for all the wood included cutting every piece to exact length. For each ramp you will need: (2" thick x 9" wide boards) 1 piece 60" long 1 piece 51" long 1 piece 42" long 1 piece 33" long 1 piece 24" long I used rough sawn lumber (planed would be nice but much more expensive) I nailed and glued them together. Some boards will be a bit warped probably, but dont worry, these ramps are sturdy as hell, even safer than jacks and axle stands, and much quicker. But, they are heavy......each weighing about 80 lbs. Regards John

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