groover

You know what mate, ive thought about that myself recently, PM me who you are having a problem with and see if we can help.

Best car to crash :biggrin: and you should make every effort to completely destroy it later :thumbup1:

As above really, but try increasing the temp up then down to 10 again, sometimes helps get the air cooler quicker, or it does in mine lol.

Anyone have the mid under tray/splash guard, ive only just realised after all these years, mine is missing. Let me know what you have Cheers Graham

Fitted new front discs and pads today, cant believe how worn the old one were:whistling: rear brakes to do tomorrow and start the rub down ready for the bodyshop :thumbup1:

I use windows 7 for scantech etc, you just need to download the appropriate driver from the net when connecting the interface. It will also work on XP, i think i even had it working on vista.

Some great pics guys, nice one :thumbup:

Not to everyones taste, unfortunately the veilside is probably the least liked of the body kits, but looks to be in good condition,

We got the Isle of Wight festival this weekend, starting tonight so a busy weekend with the football lol, as ever im hoping we do well, but it eems no matter how many good players we have, they just dont gel :thumbdown: I have a feeling an outsider will win, hard to say till all the teams have played at least one game.

The piston in the slave maybe seized after being left for so long, i had a similar problem when i did mine, as you have a Hel hose, take the slave off the gearbox and bleed it in the engine bay, try pushing the rod in and pull out with the depress of the pedal, it may free it up.

That is just unbelievable and sickening to know a pro company would miss that bolt.

The screws can be tight, but a really good fit driver should suffice.

According to the colour wiring diagrams in the tech section, there is a fuse G in the relay box for the boost sensor. Ive read somewhere eng cont fuse in the snall box near the Bmc

Boost gauge receives an electric signal from the boost solenoid, the needle itself works like a pendulum if its free or not bent then its a signal issue.

Intrigued, do tell :biggrin:

Rear seat belt mounts are all there ready :thumbup: May need to drill a hole in the plastic window surround.

All the best for your Birthday :thumbup:

SFS performance hoses a trader here, AnthonyD :thumbup1:

Sounds like the wire for the light on/dim to the stereo has been wired wrong, so everytime your headlights are turned on it shorts out, look there first, ie anything thats not a speaker, power, ground or aerial feed, disconnect.

I use autoglym bumper restore for rubber and trims that need freshening up, but like most zeds, if the trim is beyond a tickle with some restorer, then respray or vinyl wrap.

Use a flat ruler or level and a tape measure to get the distance you have now from the hub to the edge of the wheel arch, you can then work out how many mm you require. Although the same wheels as mine and thats what ive used, as above post.

No 5mm on the rear and 20mm on the front, available on the bay or put a wanted add up here, you never know someone might have some. The 5mm are cheap as chips and universal, but the hub centric are car specific.

Nice pics Lee, thanks for posting :thumbup:

I guess if it worked before it may be the ecu, as you say try the original and see if it works.

Fronts are thin, even standard oem wheels are 225 lol, go 245/40 on the front and 265/35 on the rear, will make a big difference