groover

Thats what i was afraid of, i wish i had just pulled the engine out now instead of stripping it in place. Ive spent so much time getting the heads right, it seems pointless putting them on a duff block :thumbdown:

Honing kit lol, engine out and block apart for that though

As far as i can tell its normal wear and tear as this is the first time the head has been off and the head hasnt been skimmed before, where as the replacement heads i got have been skimmed before. The rest of the bore looks fine, just seems to be at the top end of the bore. I may for now give it a rub with emery and put it all back together to get it running, then when i get time will get my spare block re honed and go for new pistons etc, service the spare heads ive got and eventually end up with a nearly new engine to put back in at a later date.

Yes just about, but not all the way down the bore, only at the top

Spent days cleaning and prepping the head ready for new valves and stem seals, cleaned part of the block today and noticed this, scoring in the bores and in one cylinder if use my fingernail, i can feel the scores. Is this still useable or is it block out to be honed, then i guess over size pistons etc.. camera not great, this is about as close as i could get Advice please.

I agree dont rush it, you will regret it in the end if you do lol

Looks fantastic Al, have a great time and enjoy your anniversary :thumbup:

Wouldnt the rod knock constantly make a noise if it was gone? The reason i ask is that my na was sounding like that, before i stripped the heads, but more of a higher pitched rattling at idle and revved from start up.

So when you said you had he timing marks lined up.......:lol: Glad you got it sorted, could have been problems if you hadnt taken the time to check and double check again :thumbup1:

Looking unlikely for me now as heads are still off on the zed, hopefully better weather this week will enable me to get it done in time.

Chances are the convertor is on its way out, some of the ebay jobbies were a bit pot luck, you could re check the wires, especially the yellow/green signal feed, sometimes they are cut from the plug and a connector used, or spliced onto the board. If spliced and soldered onto the rear film track, check for dry joint in the solder Chances are that you would notice a change in power steering at speed rather than crawl

If all your timing marks line up, then i really wouldnt worry yourself about the pulley

Yes mate will dig it out, the board is totally encased in a resin, so no chance of taking it apart without damaging whatever is on the board, so still intact :thumbup1:

you must have just been unlucky, ive only replaced one bulb in 3 years iirc.

Take the crank pulley off again to remove the bottom belt cover and just double check your lower sprocket timing mark, there are many pics in the tech section, just to be safe, i would hate for you to put it all back together at this stage and regret it. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?135139-Align-timing-belt

The pulley slides over a woodruff key on the sprocket so if the timing marks were all lined up before you put the pulley on then it cant move off the woodruff key, you did have the woodruff key?

You can get them cheaper on ebay, however it is pot luck with the reliability, so get one from Luke and at least you have some back up.

Happy Birthday mate, have a great day :thumbup1:

You have to be a subbed member Ben, you could also check the boot carpet, also has a date tag and the rear light cover, the date is imprinted into the plastic and the vin number in the engine bay states the date.

Looks really nice, i bet you cant wait lol

You could be the first to try and let us know any reactions lol

Lol, yes they are moisture tabs, normally in a bag from the factory but over the years the bag disintegrates and you are left with the tabs rattling around. Probably lost all their ability now to absorb moisture, get yourself some silica bags and place a couple in the housing.

The only real pain in the ass, is getting the collets back on the top of the valve with it being so deep set into the head :thumbdown:

Will look into getting some, i was going to use new oil, but i guess ive come this far to do it right may as well get some :thumbup1: The more i think about it, im convinced that the lack of oil to the lifters and the damage on the lifter surface is the cause of the clatter noise and with no oil pressure in the lifter, it wasnt opening the valves fully, hence loss of power and lumpy running.

Happy Birthday, have a great day :thumbup: