groover

Remove the drivers light pod, 3 screws under the pod housing and check the bulbs in the rear, 4 green bulb holders oem and 1x black in the rear of the light switch. There is a possibilty if the dimmer isnt working that the TCU is fubarred, its a fag pack sized opaque box behind the kick panel next to the fuse board, you need to remove the entire plastic panel from accelerator to the door edge and its situated near the bottom along with the fuel pump relay(green) The TCU controls among other things like intermittent wiper speed, the dash lights. Rocker as said above rear fog light, aftermarket so might have been removed after MOT, check for wires under the rear bumper, or the drivers reverse light may have been converted to a fog light. Standard headlights are generally pretty poor and likely need a clean inside the housing and the projector lens itself, most of us upgrade to H3 HIDs, which make a world of difference

Quite rare for the motor to go, not unheard of but generally the window amp, might be worth getting hold of another before resorting to the window motor.

Could have been cut for the alarm, so the key fob takes over the the door lock, looks like the feed to the solenoid.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?143168-Free-modifications

The power window amp is normally the culprit with dry joints at on the board at the plug terminals, there is a write up by JeffTT on this very subject. Door solenoid is near the door catch further down the inside of the door, only two wires, so easy to trace.

Converting the car to manual wont affect the TPS setting, but the base idle will change if you havent connected the neutral wires at the ecu. So if the base idle is at 25 deg instead of 15, then the timing is raised, therefore revs are raised. Have you plugged it in to a diagnostic? A) Adjustment check: Using a multimeter set to Voltage, check with all TPS plugs connected- measure between middle pin and a chassis earth. You should see 0.44 - 0.46V. This is the correct adjustment. If outside this range, perform the following: 1) Set ignition key to on (don't start the engine). 2) Loosen the two TPS retaining screws (ideally using a 7mm socket) and very carefully move the TPS slightly clockwise or anti-clockwise until within the above desired range (clockwise increases / anticlock decreases). The range of adjustment is minor so don't be suprised if you move it too far in the wrong direction. 3) Tighten the retaining screws and recheck the voltage hasn't changed during tightening. 4) Start the engine and disconnect the three pin TPS connector for about ten seconds. The engine RPM will increase during this time - this is normal (if you still have the mulitmeter connected, the voltage will also jump to ~ 5V. This is temporary and is of no concern). 5) Reconnect the three pin connector and recheck the voltage is still within the 0.44 - 0.46 range. Note: you will probably need to reset the base idle also. B) Sensor failure check: Disconnect harness and using a multimeter set to resistance Ω, check between the middle and lower pins on the three pin connector on the TPS side of the harness: o Throttle released = ~1 Ohm Ω o Partially Released = 1-9 Ohm Ω o Completely depressed = ~9 Ohm Ω

Welcome to the club, look forward to seeing the pics :thumbup1:

Happy Birthday mate, have a good one :thumbup:

cool :thumbup:

Sorry Andy had to edit your post as registered users are not permitted to sell or add links to your own sale.

I tried it years ago, total waste of money, you lose whatever you bid if beaten by someone else, ie you pay upfront, or used too, dont know whether its changed, but the concept is a rip off.

Happy Birthday Tony, have a great day:thumbup1:

Happy Birthday Paul, have a great day :punk:

Dett = detonation and i guess if the belts slack and may have slipped a couple a couple of teeth, the timing may be out, causing loss of power and detonation/pinking. Dont drive it anymore till you get it checked :thumbup1:

Might be valve stem oil seals, if you are getting oily plugs. I used liguid gasket on my exh rockers, intake covers have a rubber gasket already, but check to make sure they are still supple enough and making a seal. A slither of sealant wont hurt on the intake covers. As long as the injectors are in range 10-15 ohm then you could look at getting them sonically cleaned, cheaper than new, but if you want a longer term peace of mind then a few hundred quid will get some new ones. Check for a price with MJP alternatively you could try the US routes.

Definite lottery Russ regards insurance, my zed is £240 on normal insurance, ie not classic and my company mirrored my NCB for my daily drive, Hyundai coupe v6, the Hyundai was around £540 last year and they wanted the same this year, so i decided to take my zed off the insurance, so my my NCB was used only on the Hyundai and brought it down to £400 fully comp. Im now going to go classic on my zed, even though its been off the road nearly a year :scared: must get my arse into gear lol

Stunning Si, love the colour and interior, look forward to seeing her one day in the flesh :bow:

Thanks for your support mate :thumbup1: bank transfer can take a few hours but upto a day or so for AndyP to check payment and then admin to switch you on. Could be sooner, but just to let you know :thumbup1: Paypal is almost instant :yes:

Happy Birthday mate, have a great day :thumbup:

Been sorted for you Dan, bit of a glitch :thumbup1:

The lead and adapter are worth having regardless of the free software, you can also download scantech, datascan etc from certain sources :thumbup1:

Nice one Ash, bout time you had some luck :thumbup1:

The tailgate strip is best bought new from Mike ( MJP) as second hand ones tend to be snapped or cracked upon removal and try phutumsch for the rear light panel, im sure Andy will have a few knocking about :thumbup1:

Or the strip on the tailgate above the lights?

Best to make your own mark and know whats been done for sure. Modding is down to personal taste, so start with a blank canvas :thumbup1: