groover

Unfortunately yes mate: if you can get to it from under the car, then you might not need steps 2-6 To remove / inspect PAS pump and hoses (with the car on ramps), NB Right and left referenced as if sat in the car (opposite to looking in the bonnet) 1/ Remove two air ducts from right hand intercooler 2/ Loosen bottom radiator hose and drain the coolant. 3/ Disconnect all hoses from radiator (two large, one small) 4/ Under the fan shroud is a flap which can be undone so the shroud clears the fan when you pull it out, loosen this (three snap type fixings) 5/ Loosen two top radiator straps and spin out of the way. 6/ Lift out radiator. 7/ Crack open the power steering union under the car near the rack and drain PAS fluid. 8/ Loosen pump belt tensioner (one bolt accessed from engine bay to free mechanism, than wind back the long bolt from underneath the car. This probably won’t appear to slacken the belt but you need the slack in this later on). 9/ Disconnect the high pressure PAS line from the pump. This is the one from the pump to the rack, you’ll need a 24mm socket for this. There are copper washers either side of the banjo (the end fitting crimped on to the hose). Don’t drop one, it’ll take ages to find!! 10/ Disconnect the hose form the fluid reservoir to the pump. I found it easiest to undo the jubilee clip at the reservoir as the pump end of the hose is really difficult to access. 11/ Disconnect the hose form the pump to the valve. Again this was easier to remove from the HICAS valve then the pump so that is what I did. 12/ Rotate the pully around until you can see the head of the pump retaining bolt (14mm socket should get in there). Remove the bolt. 13/ If the tensioiner is loose enough you should be able to swing the pump towards the centre of the car and remove the belt. In reality it won’t be. This is the bit that held me up as the pump on my car would not budge. I had to complete steps 14 & 15 (remove the pully and then the tensioner mechanism) before I got the pump to wiggle free). 14/ Remove the pully. You don’t have to do this but it is easier to do in the car if you want to. If the pully spins when you go to loosen the nut then use the belt to hold the pully still by squeezing it together. 15/ 4 bolts hold the tensioner mechanism on to the pup and the engine. Two are near the pump shaft and the other two hold the tensioner to the engine and are easy to spot. Remove these 4 and the tensioner. 16/ Now everything is ready for the pump removal. I thought I’d left a bolt in holding the pump on, but it was just really really stiff. I ended up using a breaker bar between the pump and the engine to ‘encourage’ the pump free. If you do this be VERY careful and don’t blame me if you damage something. 17/ Breath a sigh of relief that after 3 nights of battling with the car you’ve finally got the pump out when all it needed was a jubilee clip tightening. 18/ Close the bonnet and leave it till tomorrow. 19/ Go and get drunk. :duffer: Oh yeah, fitting is the reverse of removal.

Try connecting the front washer plug to the rear washer plug and see if the pump is dead, they are next to each other in the water tank, front drivers side.

Are you getting squirt on the front screen? the pumps are on the same circuit. Check both rear and front wiper fuses, anything else not working, cig lighter etc. Failing that, check the terminals on the plugs to the pump motors.

Theres a write up here http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=74259&highlight=power+steering+pump

Silverbullet (Mark) is in your area, thezedfactory@hotmail.co.uk

Welcome to the club Matt, you have a nice car there with lots of money and love spent on it, enjoy.

found the thread lol http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=130325&highlight=timing+belt+comparison

Lol, not teeth missing, the timing marks were nearly a tooth or 2 out in comparison.

My car originally had a blueprint belt on, had no issues, but i remembered one of JeffTT's post doing a comparison to different belts and i think blueprint might have been one that is almost a tooth or 2 out compared to the Nissan belt.

He occasionaly visits, he was last on the 26th May so im sure he will see your post when he gets a chance to get back on.

Yes Mike is OEM all the way, he has managed to locate some patent parts for the zed like O2 sensors, but things like cambelt, defo Nissan. Like any one on here i look for a cheap deal on most things, but when it comes to the engine, its not worth the risk of saving a few quid in the short term only to bite you in the ass long term.

MJP for the cambelt £52.20 inc vat and postage, ask him about the tensioners, but they are about £40 odd quid each.

Thats cheap for TT, dont know why he has an N/A bumper on though, will hinder the airflow.

Hi Mate, not too bad, just time consuming. Once youve got the rad out the way and intake pipes, water pipes off etc... you have more room to work. Having the right tools is a plus and will save time/damage. Getting the crank pulley off would be a pain without the right puller, using several write ups that are around and following tips you will have no problems, especially if you are mechanically minded. Doing it with the engine out is so much easier, but you will be surprised with the room you have to work with when the rad etc is out of the way.

I have a tweed one you can have, postage wont be that cheap though lol

I totally agree with you Gaz, i changed mine when i got it and ive just put a new one on my spare engine thats going in soon. Im sure the new owner of his zed will no doubt also change it for peace of mind.

This should be a no brainer really, Nissan oem all the way for something so important to the running of the engine. You can buy blueprint or Gates, but for peace of mind i would use OEM. The reason for this little mention or warning, i went over to a fellow zedders house to fit a new timing belt, but he bought this one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-300ZX-3-0-TWIN-TURBO-90-94-ENGINE-TIMING-BELT-/160508157955?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item255f082003 It looked like had had been fitted to a car before with the way it kinked in the areas where the tensioners are when you held it up and it was described as brand new. The other main flaw for me and the reason i refused to fit it, there were no timing marks at all on the belt. Now on some vehicles its not the end of the world, but as those who know will tell you the VG engine has 5 timing points and the belt should also have 5 timing marks to make fitting more precise, i felt it didnt matter how many teeth you try and count to get it on right, there was no point as there were no marks for a starting point. Luckily the belt already on the zed looked in really good condition and you could still see the timing mark lines, on the top of the belt, which would normally be worn away by the tensioners with many miles/years of use. So i felt confident that the belt hadnt been on that long, if we had a Nissan OEM belt to hand, then would have changed it as it would be pointless not too. So anyone thinking of a new cambelt change, use Nissan OEM, do not buy from the seller listed above. A final note, he is selling it anyway, so will advise and show pics to the new owner. Had he been keeping it, then it would be replaced after purchasing the correct one. Cheers Graham

You will have to unbolt the seat from the frame and use the drivers seat rail. You will lose the lumber support, but thats crap anyway and you will have a seat tilt lever on the inside of the seat too, whereas the drivers only has the lever on the outer upright. You might need to fab the seat electric switch holder too. And i think the seat belt holder is attached to the seat Give it a go if it dont work then we will all know :lol:

No worries Mark, glad it helped Might have had a dry joint or crud in the plug, glad you got it sorted.

Is that Hari? to vote for

Nobody is ever really going to seem them bud, so i wouldnt worry too much about the finish, they will get caked in crap before long and any protection of the metal is going to help. Its nice to do some bits yourself and get that feeling of satisfaction.

Try PM' ing Vodkashots, he is breaking a car and only down the road from you.

You only need to open the clip by a few mill, to clear the side lugs. If you pull the clip ends too far you can either break the centre lug or (ping) lose the clip :biggrin:

They are a pita, without doubt. They should make a tool for the job imo like a 2 small flat bladed driver almost like a fork without the middle prong lol.

Do you still have the rest of your lights working? if so check your fuse under the bonnet The little control box is behind the drivers light panel on a slotted holder in the plastic of the curved piece, you will need to take the centre inner panel off then the screws to remove the panel. If the box is not on its holder and is in the boot well, then its possible you could have got water in the unit and buggered the circuit board. Anyone breaking a car will have one and they are all the same regardless of model.