groover

Its supposed to raise the revs when the AC is turned on, to compensate for the extra load required by the compressor. That test seems to eliminate the fast idle control valve, which is part of the ait intake unit. With a multimeter, you need to get some readings at the TPS, AAC, FICD, CAS. You could do with getting it on consult as it even the smallest adjustment can make a difference, you might have more than one sensor not reading as it should

Try one other test, idle the engine then turn on the AC pod and tell me what happens

So will it cut out when you are stationary and you turn the wheel? could be pas sensor related, ie not sending a signal to up the revs when the steering is used.

Its in the engine bay, drivers side inner wing near the aiv solenoid and small fuse box. Little gry/white unit. The front wiper plug is just above the brake master cylinder, so you can follow the small loom to it.

Anti clockwise should raise the idle, but dont go mad, very small turns. I assume you have checked your connectors and sensor connectors, the water temp snsor will have an effect on running.

Have you checked the wiper switch? are you getting clicks when you move the switch? Or change the wiper amp. You would be unlucky to have had 2 TCU not working, the TCU also controls the dash lights dimming etc.

Time control unit controls the intermittent wiper time, you may have a burnt track on the circuit board or plug come loose. The TCU is another little opaque box behind the drivers kickpanel, bottom of the door frame just above the floor. As Jeffs pic above

The idle screw on the side will need adjusting.

:happybday: All the best Harry, hope you have a great day :happybday:

:happybday: Have a great day :happybday:

Yes mate almost any switch will do, either + or - or get a splitter as Gaz has shown for the signal switching.

Your better off having constant power to the camera's and switching the signal. You could end up with a delay or slight power pulse/interference by switching the power.

Actually tell a lie, my manifolds didnt come with a blanking bolt for the egr. I cut the egr pipe and slid off the bung, then used a little exhaust paste, a one pence piece, drifted that into the hole, then used the bung up tight and filled the hole in the bung with liquid metal filler.

Not unless its ridiculously loud lol, most aftermarket zorsts on the zeds seem to pass with no issues with noise.

No mate, will make no difference.

Yes mate, will be fine, they are universal fitment, hence the channels rather than specific fit holes. Im going to get some myself, literally only need about that on my rear wheels but about 20mm on the fronts.

I would get your zed back on the road and with the extra money saved that you would have spent on buying another car, you can use in fuel lol.

You will be fine upto 10mm with wheel spacers anything above that, ie: front wheels then you will need hubcentric spacers.

This thread that you posted in lol http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=130646&highlight=vacuum+lines Make the plates yourself Ian, cut the egr pipe that goes into the plenum leaving you with the flange and an inch or so of pipe and fill with chemical metal filler. Not sure on the bolt size for the egr delete, mine came with the new manifolds. Do a search through Boldy's post where he used a coin and a bolt to block it off.

http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/6901.html

Lol, I remember reading an article that fuel was cheap there, i think it was a case of the first ever driver to be banned in Venezuela for speeding

I wonder how they can do it that cheap with oil prices so high, supposedly

Have you still got your egr valve Paul? check the vac hose to the top of the unit, with all the heat over time it becomes brittle, you might have a little leak causing the noise.

Welcome to the club, look forward to the pics. Graham

I did write that lol, then edited as i didnt think it would turn over with the batt fuse disconnected