groover

If you are staying the same colour, you dont need to prime the whole car, just the repair areas and dont use white primer lol, go for a grey/darker primer. I only used white primer as its the best colour to use for a yellow basecoat.

Thinners from my local paint supplies is about £5 a litre, white high build i bought as a kit incl hardner for about £28, but you can get them as litre seperates fairly cheaply compared to rattles. If you are doing it outside, i would suggest getting yourself a cheap gazebo to help protect as you paint. The paint is a little smelly, but try not to piss the neighnours off lol and if they ask its not 2k :nuke:

If you have a compressor mate, it will be far more cost effective to go the 2k high build primer route. I used a clear sealer (barcoat) type but better to seal the poly bumpers as i was having some cracking effect in the previous paint, where it reacted. Have sealed the bumper and sprayed the 2k primer and has settled well. The sealer also has to be 2k, so would more than likely still react with the rattle can, but if you add more hardner to the sealer it will dry quicker, hopefully before the reaction starts, but i would stick the 2k route from the get go, for the best results. I bought a proper particulate mask for about £15 specifically for use with 2k paints, but airfed would be ideal, but as long as you are in a well ventilated area it will be fine. The paint is harmless, its the hardner that has the isocyantes in it, which is the dangerous part of the chemical make up. As a one off job you will be fine, wear a suit with hood, goggles and mask and all good. You will be surprised at how good the coverage and toughness of the primer is when its dry and being as it needs flatting anyway, the primer stage is more forgiving if you get runs or spats. The 2k high build is very thick compared to the basecoat and the recommended mixing ration is 4:1 +10-15% thinners. I found 2:1 with the thinners better, with the compressor and gun im using. HTH

Find out what type of paint the bodyshop will be using, if they use 2k for example, then all your rattle can efforts will have to be sanded away or it will react with the paint. There is alot of prep compared to the actual spraying, so flat back as much of the car as you can, which will save time in the bodyshop, but they will degrease and mask all the panels, which can take a few hours, but decide how much the rattle cans are going to cost in comparison to the body shop priming it. For example i spent around £80 on primer in rattle cans last year, ended up having to rub it all down again as my sprayer is shooting 2k paint. I bought 3litres of 2k high build primer for half the cost of rattle cans and will have a better finish and will be compatible with the base coat going on. So ask the bodyshop first, the best way for you to proceed to compliment what they will have to work with to finish her off.

You might have a vac/air leak causing the misfire, after seeing the water hoses on the turbos, are you sure the diameter is big enough? flush your water system anyway as it had no coolant in it when i saw it last. Water alone will rust out the block and cause all the crap you are getting in the water and no doubt the crud could be blocking or blocked you thermostat/matrix or smaller water journals through out the block.

Welcome back mate, hope you manage settle in ok, its been a long time lol.

Pablito was probably cooking at that point lol.

Im not a burger lover, but i thought the burgers were nice, especially with the cajun spice on them.

The food has already been covered in the first part of the thread, no point in repeating it 80 posts later. Food is on the agenda for improvement, variety, more of it.

Thread now reopened and to be kept on the original topic please. Anything not constructive to the thread will be edited/deleted. Cheers Graham

The release wire has a junction on a bracket near the top of the rear pass wheel arch, you may just need some wd40 on the bracket or the flap release pin. As mentioned, also depending on the type of mat in your car, the lever when pushed down, wont go down far enough if the mat is in the line of the lever. Really basic system so only 3 places of importance to check. Lever bracket junction flap release pin It has been known for that part of the cable to have a break, like my original did, so check the wire is moving with someone else pushing down on the lever.

The odometer can be changed to the correct mileage in miles, but you must make a new buyer aware when you come to sell the car, if you are keeping it forever then it doesnt matter. The figures will be logged at dvla anyway when you take it for a new mot.

All insurance has gone up, so best to shop around.

Always had a soft spot for stags over the years, but i remember them being much sexier back then, how times change an opinion lol

:happybday: many happy returns:happybday:

:happybday: have a great day :happybday:

:happybday: all the best Lee, have a great day :happybday:

Are you trying to do something like this http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=143858&highlight=dash+cluster

Nice Andy, the slicktop cutout definitely looks sharper, so thats the way to go.

Craig if you have wired the rear fog to the fog switch on the pod, then all the sidelights and dash lights will also illuminate, so its supposed to work that way, unless the examiner wants to see, just the rear fogs on, then you will need a seperate illuminated switch. Iluminated meaning an led or tell tale sign that the rear fog is on. The front fogs on a jap obviously are not part of an MOT, but if you are going to use that switch then as i said the side lights and dash lights will also light HTH

Yes mate they all have fuel low lights, though some may have bulbs gone lol. Its at the top of the fuel gauge, behind the petrol pump icon The light normally comes on on or under the empty line, it does on mine, some may vary, but you have about a tenners worth in the tank when the light does come on, so be a bit braver and try it lol

Here is the schematic in the online manual, which should help, from 65 onward http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=el&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=65&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=133

I think we can arrange with the marquee company to place 2 openings so not an issue really and i think it would be nice to have some windows along both sides, like some of the marquees on the site.

If your gauge is working it wont be the float in the tank. I think the low fuel light comes on when the needle goes down to or below the empty line, so will be the circuit on the gauge. I have a spare if you want to change the fuel gauge, if nothing else but eliminate the gauge from the equation .

I did a Vectra v6, after doing it a few times the job got quicker and easier as i supposed once you know, it becomes easier lol What will make the zed a bit easier is everything is facing you at the front of the car, rather than the side. You will need the rad out, the fan and the water pipes and all of a sudden you have loads of room, in comparison.