groover

I think he is back thurs, so might get on by the weekend, he said he has been working away from home, so been busy, busy.

A bad earth would cause this, remember that the stereo gets a ground from the aerial as well as a ground fitted to the body, if the body ground is poor it will rely mostly on the aerial ground which is why you will sometimes get it going up and down when you least want it too.

IIRC the fog light switch feed is the little plug on the rear of the pod.

Basically there is only one ground and one wire to work the switches, the switch is then responsible for the direction. Obviously the motors are working correctly, but it appears the switches are not, hence the switch cleaner into the switches to eliminate corroded or dried tracks in the switch circuitry.

Blue wire from aerial to the switch and the blue wire from the stereo to the switch, that way you are using the switch as an interrupt/make inline, no need for any power from the switch.

Yes it is possible, you would wire your blue arial wire that would go to the stereo and wire it to the feed at the back of the plug for the fog switch. You shouldnt need a ground as there will already be one through the loom.

Just to make one thing clear, when you connect the wire and the seat moves forward, then you swap the wires and the seat moves back, are you using the same switch in the same position when this happens, ie button forward to go forward, then button forward to go back when wires are swapped

Yes the control buttons, all you are doing with the wires is reversing the polarity to the input of the seat, normally the switch decides which way the voltage flows.

Spray some switch cleaner into the switches, i had the same problem with my passenger seat and it was a dry contact from being sat in my garage for 6 months. You will need to connect the power so the seat moves forward.

No Worries mate, it was left on a chair and noticed it after clearing up the marquee.

Yes mate, you have a 50/50 chance of getting them the right way round lol, all that will happen is the switches will work in reverse to how they are supposed to work, so try it and you will easily figure it out.

I take it you are fitting some Z32 seats? IIRC black is ground and white/red is power on the seat plug.

As you would with an amp set up in the boot, run power from the battery and use an inline fuse, probably around 20amp and ground to the body under the seat.

When i changed my engine i didnt bother with any O2 sensors and runs fine, no issues at all.

:happybday: All the best Mike, hope you have a great day :happybday:

You can get a sealer you can paint/roll over the top almost like a varnish though. I had laminate in my kitchen once and after a while parts of it had blown/bubbled where water had been spilt and it looked bloody awful in the end. Ripped it up and bought some nice spongy feel lino, looks like wood but without the long term hassle.

I drove around for weeks without the front ARB, while waiting for new drop links and i didnt notice any difference lol

72 litres

Yes and that Go compare fella:laugh:

Yes you know using juan sheet will make sense :lol::lol:

Yep anytime is good for me, just let me know which day etc you want to do it. No worries :thumbup:

All the best, hope you have a great day

Glad your loving your zed again Trevor, if you want me to run the diagnostic again and tweak it, then let me know. Dont forget to get your gear lever bushes ordered, only a few quid, but will make the gearstick feel like it should.

Yes the jap one is tucked up slightly in the side undertray sections, pretty crap design really as any pressure is going to lift the front lip of the bumper.