groover

I used soundproofing, similar to dynamat but cheaper lol, did the whole car, boot, hatch even behind the plastic panels and to the rear of the panels themselves. Does make a difference.

You can post what ever pics you want of that ilk, but try not to offer your services just yet, i know you started off gauging interest, but it can end up going further before you know it. The reason its been left open for now, is the fact that having this service available in the club can only be a bonus to our members, i just want to you to go about it the right way . Cheers Graham

Hi Bud, it might be worth you at least subscribing then having a listing in the members services section otherwise this thread will be closed as registered users are not permitted to sell or trade. Cheers Graham

Sorry to hear your sad news, my dad passed away less than 4 weeks ago, i didnt post it up here, but i can honestly say i know how you must be feeling right now. All the best Graham

Thread now closed till Vodkashots is able to reply in person

Happy Birthday Dave, have a nice day

click on the user feedback next to the red car under your sig, seems to be working fine

Happy Birthday Nick, hope youve had a nice day :happybday:

It gives me great pleasure to announce the addition of a new trader to our club, TwinTurboRich, under the trading name of Steel StyleZ. For your custom made/bespoke after market stainless steel styling accessories, Steel StyleZ is the place to go. Having supplied a few members already and with great reviews, im sure you will all join the committee and club, in giving a warm welcome to our newest addition to the club and wishing Steel StyleZ great success. Enjoy :thumbup:

Cool, you had us thinking allsorts there mate :lol::lol:

Please tell me it wasnt cos you turned the light switch on :2guns::devil:

Headlight fuse or relay under the bonnet passenger side, they are marked clearly on top of the plastic cover.

He's only had it 5 minutes, wonder why he's selling.

If its just the centre bearing you need, then you only need the front section of the prop, which will also be cheaper on postage, will speak to you tommorrow. I have an N/A and have rebuilt and changed the engine and converted to manual, so if there is anything you need to know, write yourself a list lol. Cheers Graham

There is a difference in TT, N/A, auto and manual http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=144553 I have a full n/a auto prop you can have, if you cover post, it will need a centre bearing or the front section rotating 180 deg as i got some vibration at 40mph. I was told it was fine before i fitted it, so would try the rotation.

I know what you mean lol, there is also a swb slicktop and a convertible, so they had it covered with the options.

Hi Peter, there is a difference in length between the two props. A 2+2 has rear seats the swb none. Your zed is a lwb or 2+2, so anything you ask for now will be easier to judge. Take a browse around the faq section for more info and How To's http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=43

Speedo board out of the binnacle and you would normally get the dry joint around the R10 resistor area, but look at the tracks on the board for dull solder or missing solder. Flow new solder basically will sort out the dry joints. Good bit of info here http://pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.321

The screw in the top hole will be where it is in the pic for jap clocks (100k) and the UK clocks the screw is in the hole next to it (10K) Try banging the top of the clocks when going along, if you have any movement or intermittent needle movement, then likely a dry joint on the speedo board. Give the wires to the white plug a little tug to make sure they arent loose and check along the loom line for an obvious slice/break.

I was only talking about the engine lol, the body still needs spraying, been in primer for the last 2 JAE's :hammer: But as far as the engine goes, i shouldnt need to worry for a few years (hopefully)

Hi Rob, top left of the plug iirc, but if you havent removed a speedo convertor then chances are if you have one, its still connected. Its just a little black box normally mounted or left dangling at the rear of the clocks, so if you cant see it or dont appear to have extra wires attached to the rear of the speedo screws then you probably havent got a convertor at all. Hard to say for sure without pics, but im sure if you drive back using satnav, at least you will see the speed till you get her back.

Have you removed the speedo convertor? If yes make sure the yellow/green stripe wire is reconnected to the plug as its the speed signal to the dash. There is a possibility that the EL dial isnt flush and catching the rear of the needle, not allowing it to sweep and there fore no odometer either as they are linked. Dry joints on the speedo board can also be a culprit. Did the speedo work fine before you changed to UK clocks?

Its actually not too bad lol, there are plenty of write ups, how to's and help at hand so dont be afraid. Its very rewarding at the end and you get to learn alot more about the zed, so well worth it. I found buying parts etc throughout the year took the sting out of it a bit and once youve cleaned everything up, its so nice working on a clean engine. All i have to do now is give it a polish and clean once a week and it still looks like new.

You will enjoy it im sure. I was lucky enough to buy a spare engine to work on through the year and changed it when it was ready. Having it on a stand made a world of difference for ease of access.

No worries mate, the engine weighs about 250kg's so the stand is more than enough to handle the wieght. When you rotate the engine on the stand, hold onto the manifold or block so the momentum doesnt swing it away from where you want it to be. The keyring type hoop on the locking pin tends to bend after a while, so i use a big bolt to stop it turning.