groover

Jeff is a star, not only did he and Jamie run consult on about 32 zeds on Sat, he offers to help on his day off, nice one.

:gun_bandana::death::gunsmilie::tank::wink: Duly noted :smartass:

A big thanks Ian for organising your first major meet. Its not as easy as everyone probably thinks, but we appreciate the effort and looking forward to all the pics, you still had time to take.:wink: Cheers Graham

I would just like to give a big congratulations to Jason Farrow for a 3rd year in a row win for Best Nissan and Best car in show:bow::bow: Has done the club and the Z32 proud. Im sure the pics will be put up later of just how fantastic it looks and the work gone into the car. Top work Jason and a pleasure as always having a chat.

Change the CAS mate, as Smithy said, apart from fuelling theres not alot else it could be. I wouldnt advise driving it on 4 cyl, you could end up washing the bores with fuel and making it worse.

Lol, i know, but at least the beige primer looked a better finish. I haven't even had time to flatten this one yet, but the engine and manual box is in and nearly all the new interior, so made some progress lol. Look forward to seeing you again mate, its been too long.

I will try the hammer method as i dont fancy taking the manifold off again lol. Cheers Graham

The problem is the manifolds are designed for left hand drive cars, so where the O2 sensor hole is, you cannot fit an O2 sensor and the blank and the housing for the sensor on the pipe rubs on the steering column rod. As you turn the wheel it scores the metal on the rod as the steering column moves in an eccentric path causing it to hit the manifolds, so when going round a left hand bend it catches, right hand bend is fine. So for future reference, the O2 sensor needs moving away from the position its in now. Cheers Graham

Mine is part white primer and part mess as i ran out of paint and time, so fook it im not stressing anymore, its goes as is and i dont care lol

Did you take the needle off completely? i might have a spare kph speedo if it will help. The other option would be to change the resistor on the speedo board for it to read in kph and there are 2 variable resistor pots on the board also which can be used to calibrate, there is a write up somewhere to do that, i will dig it out and post it up here for you.

:happybday: all the best :happybday:

In that case, also check the sensors on top of the heater ducting under the dash and sensor pipe as that will affect the heating inside the car, i had a similar issue when i removed the said ducting to fit a clutch pedal and left it a few days before refitting.

As above i have recently fitted Japspeed stainless manifolds and i have the common issue of the O2 sensor blank in the wrong place, ie> its designed for the left hand drive car and so i now have some slight scoring on the steering shaft. There have been a few members, Slick pete and Hellraiser to name a couple that have fitted these and i wanted to know how you got over the problem. If im going to take a hammer to something, will the manifold crack? bend the steering rod? Before i start searching, would be good to have a definitive answer. Many thanks Graham

Nothing wrong with a manual N/A, mine flies and sounds great now, compared to when it was auto :thumbup:

Might have a dodgy gauge, its not that common for the temp gauge to die but it has been known. Ive got a few spares if you want me to send you one to try, at least eliminate the gauge

Setting your aircon pod that high, will leave the valve to the matrix closed until that temp has been reached, i would set it to about 22 and the heat will come through quicker. You might have some corrosion on the temp sender spade, give both senders a clean and try again. Check your water level in the rad, if the thermostat is closed/stuck, the rad wont be getting the hot water from the block to cool down. Check for air lock in the water system. Try all the easy fixes before going down the thermostat replacement route.

Hi Josh and welcome to the club If the TPS (throttle position sensor) is set incorrectly it will affect gear changes, in an auto, although you should still get overdrive/4th gear above 45mph regardless. Is it a Jap or UK spec? does it have the hold/power switch? It could be an auto ecu fault, you can run your own auto diagnostics and count the flashes to determine the fault http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=128846 Sound like turbo seals, fairly common if an aftermarket exhaust and decats are fitted, with weak seals in the first place.

Yes 12 ohms is fine, so luckily for you, you dont need to take the plenum off, so just the loom in the way. Have you changed your ecu or do you have another to try, just to rule that out?

Undo the 2 bolts on the bottom of the window rail and it will pull up, slight angle needed. The door lock barrel, has a plastic retainer on the rod, which tend to break or snap over time, so you should be able to replace just the plastic part. There are some pics on here somewhere, might have to do a bit of a search. http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.504

Top notch Daz, looks absolutely fantastic and brings the dash bang up to date, hats off to you. Ive got to get my 2 din unit working before i can even consider something like that, but i love it.

Take off the ecu plug and connect one end of the tester to the appropriate pins 101=inj1 103=inj3, 105=inj2, 110=inj5, 112=inj6, 114 =inj4 the inj grounds are 107 and 108 So the easiest thing to do to make a continuity test, is to short the pins together on one injector plug and with the meter inside the car, place the pos of the meter on pin 101 of the ecu plug and the neg of the meter onto one of the grounds (107 or 108) and if there is no break in the loom on that injector plug you should get a beep from the meter, ( assuming your meter has the beep facility) Repeat for inj 2, at least you can eliminate a break in the loom on those injectors.

I did in post 12 lol, Use a multimeter to check the Ohmage at the injector across the 2 pins you should set to Ohms Ω Look for around 10-14Ohm Ω. Anything significantly outside this range is faulty and the injector will either be supplying too much or too little fuel.

Then use the faq section and yee shall find lol http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=66739

I think sometimes even by using the screw driver in the ear test, it can sound like clicking as you get the vibes along the rail from the others that do work. Its odd to have 2 gone, which ones 1 and 2 ? If you have to change them, its plenum off again :huh:

Check for corrosion on the injector terminals and inside the plug, i had green gunk in mine, which caused a misfire. Also if you have an electrical tester, do a continuity test from the ecu to the injector plug, probably need some extra wire on the tester to reach. At least you can see if there is a break in the injector loom.