groover

Fairy muff, i can just about remember that swear word, WORK lol Good to know there were no other fails i guess, so pleased for you.

I think he is cutting it fine to be ready for JAE lol Good luck with it Lee, i hope it all gets sorted for you.

So if you knew the HID was dodgy, why not wait till you had replaced them before going in for the MOT?:2guns::tt2:

Thats the problem with having full wrap round skirts fitted, becomes a water trap and ends up eventually like you have discovered. It looks bad in the pics, probably as bad in the metal, but i would say the skirts would need to come off to have the sill replaced, you dont know what else is hiding behind the skirts, looks like a fair bit of welding needs to be done. I would try and find a mobile welder to come out and give you a price as they tend to have no overheads and work for themselves, normally get a better job for a better price.

Just follow the wire from the O2 sensor on the manifold down pipe, the drivers O2 plug is on the bracket on the plenum next to the whitish wire, which is the vvt solenoid plug, the pass one is on a bracket above the aac top of plenum to the left of the battery, again there are 2 plugs, one is the vvt for the pass side. You can unplug both O2 sensors and the car will run a means setting, better than only having one working.

My ticket arrived this morning :clap: thanks Andy for sorting them out, cant wait now.

You may be able to do it in situe, but you would still need to remove the pods and the surround, with the warning lights in.

Use part of this thread http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.311 Once the binnacle is removed, the perspex is held on with plastic lugs. Use a flat blade screwdriver to lever the top tabs, while pulling the perspex away from the unit and it will come off quite easily.

Im really pleased for you Steve, its been a journey, thats for sure. Look forward to seeing some pics.

Hi Jay, its paypal at 300zx.co.uk replace the at with @ and in the message box put your user name and what its for. Cheers Graham

31mm festoon is the standard fitment, it may seem a little tight, but the bulb sits in the recess of the holders, which gives you the 31mm. HTH

How about something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluetooth-Rear-View-Mirror-Handsfree-Phone-Car-KIT-New-/290565874162?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a71361f2

Yep, mine is too.

Yes mate no worries, let me know a time and where. Cheers Graham

Look forward to it Gary, which one you bringing?

Yes mate another trip to Northampton, then back via Ascot. Are you here after or before JAE?

Hi Trevor, i have a consult cable with Nissan scantech software, so we could plug it in and see what everything is running at, let me know when you are around i can pop over. Cheers Graham

As above plus, the odometer takes its feed from the back of the speedo, so also check the little plug in the back of it.

Check all your vac pipes too, under the throttle bodies back to the balance bar, sounds like one has popped off causing a vac leak.

You too mate, shame i couldnt get there earlier cos of the traffic and then the bloody kids in tow, after a long journey the little one was getting a bit restless. Yours is going to look great, i hope you manage to get it all ready for JAE, look forward to it. Cheers Graham

Bushes are really cheap from Mr F, im sure it will cure your loose stick lol

Well did a 400 mile round trip today and the car performed really well for its first major outing with the new engine and manual box, what a difference in performance overall compared to my old engine and slush box:w00t: I have a couple of niggles to iron out, but nothing major, so in all very happy. The biggest niggle is the steering rod scoring slightly from the manifolds O2 blank, so need to address that one, probably with a hammer :wink: My rear tyres are unevenly worn, ie the pass rear tread is lower than the drivers side so getting little road/bearing type noise at around 80mph and my exhaust is still touching the rear valance and under body. Im going to remove the centre tunnel brace, which will hopefully eliminate most of the zorst hum through the body. Getting a slight clutch bearing noise with the clutch released, which is annoying cos its brand new, maybe needs a bit more lube :ohmy: And the usual squeaky clutch pedal spring, defo some lube on that. Cheers

Your first screen is pointless as the car needs to be up to temp to get the readings your after, like the second screen. TPS needs to be 0.44, then set your base idle wth the aac plug off, bring the idle down to around 700m then plug the aac plug back in ( the one on to of the valve with the base idle screw) the revs will then rise by about 50rpm and the ecu should then take over the base idle. Jeff will be the man to tell you what the readings should be.

For future reference, the speedo sensor plug is the same for the auto and the manual, unfortunately they thats the only part that is plug and play. The neutral switch is the one nearest the rear of the top of the box and after doing the conversion i would personally not bother with connecting it at all. My timing is 15 deg and now when i put it into gear it registers 20 deg, so raises the timing slightly. The reverse sensor is the next one along and requires the running of two wires along to the front inner wing behind the drivers headlight and connect to the larger of the plugs. The pics and write ups are already in the faq section, but if you want it more in your face obvious i will put together a thread of just the wiring. One other observation: on the neutral and reverse sensor the wires over time become brittle and you may be unlucky and have one of the wires break. If you remove the rubber boot and pull the wires off the rear of the sensor (carefully) you can attach new wires with spade crimps and attach directly to the sensor.

Easier if you have done the water bypass. The best thing to do is to make sure you can seat it properly before you put the gasket on, or you might knacker it moving it about, but basically get the pass side pcv hose connected first as the other side there is a little more play in the pipe connected to the hose, then 8 bolts down through the plenum, side brackets 2 bolts each (top) for the plenum, connect the water hoses etc, it depends how far youve gone with the water bypass or not.