groover

As you look at the switch front on, the leg on the left is the positive, you need a resistor on it too,

Welcome Nathan, i see no reason to delete this post or ban you, what in the world would make you think that? Edit, beat me to it lol Graham

Take the plug off the idle air control valve, start up the engine, then plug it back in, the ecu should then take over the tick over. You may need to adjust the idle screw on the side of the valve if the revs dont sit back down.

Sad to see this Gary, surely a permanent ban would have gone to a committee vote? It seems that the decision has been made by certain individuals on a personal vendetta, which is a shame really. Its fair to say that another club started up, born out of frustration, by a few members with the way they think, this club is run, but a club cannot be run by one person alone and has to have rules and moderation to survive and retain a happy medium for the longevity of the club. Sometimes there is no reasoning with people who have a myopic view on life and have to have things their way and the last say. Like many of us that know you Gary, your reputation is intact as far as we are concerned and best now concentrate on moving forward with our own club. Graham

Our NEO has them in Northampton, but can be posted out for meets and returned postage paid as long as we have the necessary details and contact info for the REO responsible for the event/caretaker of the banners etc.

I would take the sender out of the tank and have a look at the float arm, may have bent it slightly.

The fuel gauge works in real time, so what ever the level is in the tank it will indicate, even with ignition off. So you either have fuel in your float or a dodgy fuel sender in the tank, so get yourself in the boot, under the spare wheel, release the screws that hold the plate over the tank and lift out to investigate. ( Do not smoke a fag) while doing it lol The fuel gauge is normally one of the most reliable out of the 4 in the dash, so i would say not likely the gauge itself, but dont rule anything out at this point.

If you give Richard a PM, giving details of the meet, poss numbers, your requirements, we can get banners etc sent to you. Graham

You are not supposed to remove them :lol: I just did mine up fairly tight when i did mine, didnt use a torque wrench. Obviously you are worried because being ali, you dont want to strip the thread, M12 bolts (into ally) should be 34ft./lbs., M14 54ft./lbs

According to autodata Brake caliper carrier to hub front 85nm brake caliper carrier to hub rear 45nm Service manual

I would imagine 2 of the pins are for the heat element.

Really easy, as Dave said, run a power to the seat and ground it to the floorpan. It doesnt matter if you, get the wires round the wrong way it will simply work in reverse, so if that happens just swap the feed wire over.

Check your maf, injector connectors and the temp sensor on the front water pipes, mine started doing this again recently and cleaned up the plugs and terminals, seemed to cure it. Check for a vac leak or any pipes off under the throttle bodies and on the balance bar.

I wonder if i can include the petrol lawn mower to help boost the figures:lol::lol:

[TABLE=class: tborder, align: center] [TR] [TD=class: alt1]ENGINE COMPARISON 1. The blocks are the same. They both have oil squirters that direct oil towards the underside of the piston, although they point at slightly different angles, they are still interchangeable. They have all of the same oil passages. Two passages are plugged with a bolt on the NA block (one on each outside face that feed the turbos on a TT). The TT has two oil passages plugged inside where the oil filter bracket mounts, the NA has two small check valves in this location. They are plugged in the TT so that the oil will go through the lines to the oil cooler, which returns back to the oil pan. 2. The crankshaft is the same. 3. Connecting rods ARE the same!! (Same Nissan part #) 4. Piston rings, and Crankshaft (main) bearings are the same. The rod bearings are the same size but the TT ones are a different alloy. 5. Of course the pistons are different because of lower compression ratio in the TT. Oil pumps are different. They mount the same but I assume the TT one is higher capacity. 6. Oil filter bracket on a TT is different it has an outlet that accommodates the hose going to the oil cooler. 7. Cams, Lifters, and valve springs ARE the same (90-93)(same Nissan Part #) The Auto TT has different intake cams (lower DURATION) but the intake cams on the 5 speed TT, NA, and auto NA are the same. All the exhaust cams are the same. The 94-95 cams were different than the 90-93 but just like the earlier ones they are all the same except for the intake cams on the auto TT. The 96 cams were all the same. 8. The valves are all the same size. But the exhaust valves on a TT are made from a stronger alloy. 9. Nissan claims the bare heads are different but I no longer believe it. I used to think the thickness was different but after some measurements I believe they are the same and have been using them interchangeably (just making sure the exhaust valves are the stronger TT ones) 10. The oil pan is different because the TT one has 2 tubes protruding on the sides where the oil return hoses for the turbos mount and another one for the hose returning from the oil cooler. 11.The turbo engine obviously has a few different accessories and systems to accommodate the turbos. The exhaust manifolds on the TT are much shorter than the NA ones, which go all the way down and tie into the exhaust section including the catalytic converters. The turbos are oil lubricated and water cooled. So there are oil and water feed and return lines. 12. The throttle bodies are the same size but the passenger side one is different on a TT simply because one of the water lines attached to the bottom of it has a junction in it to feed water to one turbo. The upper and lower intake manifolds are the same TT and NA although the 94 up ones are different from the earlier ones. [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: alt2] [/TD] [TD=class: alt1, align: right] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

Did you use their primer too, will peel like a banana if not. Came out pretty smoothly when i used it on my scuttles, but needs to be sprayed in a warm environment too. Also needs to be sprayed in thin coats to build.

Who said you cant polish a turd :lol::lol: Well done Paul, it is alot of hard work, but well worth it in the end. At least once youve protected her, it will be so much easier to keep clean in the future.

Plasti dip is best, there is a write up in the tech faq

I had the same problem with mine before i changed the engine, it was leaking onto the manifold and used to smell awful, especially after booting it lol.

Check your pcv valves, while the plenums off, give them a good soak in carb cleaner or replace if the ball valve doesnt move smoothly.

Well done Lee and nice one on a couple of other little fixes ( New posts) sub headers stay there now :thumbup1:

Im pretty sure the bose units i got from Andy Isherwood were from a swb and fit fine in my lwb, i might be wrong but i think the curvature of the wheel arch in relation to the speaker is the same in both models, the seats or lack of make the difference between the 2.

He lives in the pub lol, so i would say he might be there a fair bit lol

Occasionally the question is asked " where is the technical info or tech answers" the FAQ storage area has always been in the main forum headings, but i felt it was probably not always that obvious, especially to newbies, so many thanks to Lee for placing the Tech FAQ in the main forum header. Hopefully it will help people find what they are looking for more easily. :thumbup1: Graham

Front crank seal does not need all that lot taken off lol, its at the front of the engine, but you will need the water pipes off, front cam cover and cambelt off as you need to remove the crank pulley. I guess price wise you are looking at a cambelt change price.