DJ_Party_Favor

Never heard of these thanks for sharing greg. Unfortunately its too expensive for me nowdays to get these from japan, i would wsitmate this would roughly cost 40,000 yen to ship to australia. the wife would kill me.

I appreciate the reply but i dont need to check codes i have consult. What i need to know is the ecu looking like its set to mode 1 or mode 2 in that photo.

Hey guys, I just installed a later model ECU into my Z and though everything is working fine so far, I just noticed the potentiometer you turn to check error codes is pointing downwards towards the right. My old ECU had it pointing upwards towards the right. I have looked up some info on which mode this is set to at the moment but I don't really know which way the potentiometer should be pointing to for normal mode. Any ideas what this is set to?

He has put it up for sale again. http://www.ebay.com/itm/112057919363

Yup black outer rim with silver spokes, just gotta take the sapcers off for that flush look. Lol It also has aerial and rear wiper delete which was an odd surprise, but its now gone eat it tailpipe and all and with a strawberry whirl centre it tasted too good to resist. Thanks again guys for your lovely comments

Hey guys, I thought you all might like this. For my 33rd Birthday my wife has gone all out for me and had a cake made out of a silver Nissan 300ZX Z32. The first thing I noticed with the cake is its a 2+0 model, series 1 spoiler & aftermarket wheels. It has tinted windows, silver wiper arms, and series 1 tail lights and front indicators. LOL My wife's best friend's boyfriends mum is a professional cake maker and she prepared this wonderful cake for me for today and think its amazing. I can now finally tick off 300ZX birthday cake from my bucket list :zlove:

From what i know this was the stunt car used for the final jump scene not the actual main driving car. The fuel tank is rusted up with 20 year old fuel and from what the owner said in his forums post he couldnt start the car and was going to replace the fuel tank and pump. Also they painted a black z silver to match the main silver driving car in the ad.

Thanks mate its my pride and joy and i do my best to look after her. As for Tommy karia z in oz no i don't think there are any i know of in Australia..

There was a tiny accident between 2 Z on the way up the hill, A white Z misjudged the braking distance and nudged the silver Z in front of him bending the RH side exhaust pipe. Looks like we weren't the only ones that knew about this great parking spot on the top of a mountain. Healesville After about an hour of resting our feet and socializing we headed back down the mountain to travel to our last destination in Healesville. I tried to take it easy on the way down which meant a few of the more spirited Z drivers overtook me which added to the scare factor but I survived and after a long day of driving through some really nice forest roads we made it to bakery at Healesville. And to finish off We have the Great Ocean Road Cruise coming up in less then 3 weeks and I can't wait to attend.

The 2nd annual Doug Memorial cruise was without a doubt another great cruise event with lots of driving and socialising for all the members who attended on the day. It has become one of those events I believe every Victorian Z owner should attend and be apart of, but not just for the memorial of a fellow Z owner who has past away, but because it is becoming one of the fastest growing iconic Z cruises I seen since my First GOR cruise in 2007. Anyways enough talking onto the photos. I tried to keep them to a minimum this event, as sometimes too much can ruin the overall presentation of a good thread post. Starting meet point If your wondering what Mark meant by "getting everyone lost by following the GSP" well this is where we waited for the pack to follow us back down the narrow street Mark accidentally took us up. I don't know how but only 2 of us follow mark back to the turn off we weren't suppose to go up and while we waited, mark called Col to organise how we could link back up with the pack of Z that he had with him. We ended up meeting the rest of the pack on our way to Gembrook so it all worked out in the end. Gembrook Gembrook was our first stop along the cruise route and where would have lunch for the day. Most of the Z's got scattered in different parking spots along the main street unfortunately, so I didn't get many photos. Lake Mountian The road up the mountain has to be one of the twistiest roads I've every driven on and though it was fun pushing my Z which has the OEM TT suspension setup to give me more stability through the tight turns at speed, there were definately a few corners I took a little to hard causing me to use the entire edge of the road which scared me half to death that's for sure. We also had motor bikes zipping past us on the way up the hill and then one of the members in the green and black Z span out right behind me while doing a power side around a tight corner. No damaged was sustained but it was quite scary and though I had a laugh with the driving when we arrived at lake mountain, I was still like F#@k me that was close. lol We we arrived at the top of mountain the view was spectacular to say the least and with a massive car park to accommodate the everyone it was a great place to socialize and photograph the best cars on the planet in my opinion :zlove:

Hey guys, just a little update on how this install is going. We did a bench test to see if the system actually worked before we tried to install it and with only the small amount of information I had gathered I this system I prayed for a positive result. It works:), We connected the red/black power wire to a positive power source as well as connect the black/brown GND wire to earth and this was enough for the system to operate and activate the leveler actuator up and down as well as display a red indicator light on the infrared sensor when the system was in the locked position. The smaller horn also made a short beep sound as the system was activated. We found the yellow wire and green/brown wire did not need to be connected for the above test of the system to work which I think means those wires must relate to the theft warning part of the system which if i can figure out would be a double bonus. Anyways with the system now working i decided to attempt to install it into the drivers door and see if I can get it to all work. The problem I faced immediately is i have absolutely zero clue where the leveler actuator mounts inside the door and where it attaches to so the central locking system can be locked and unlocked. I was hoping the diagram I had would reveal the exact location when I attempted to install the actuator, but what we found was there didn't appear to be any spare holes or empty clips locations on the door actuator for the system to connect to. After several different places inside the door where we think it would mount we found that the actuator needs to be in the right spot at the right angle so the arm mechanism can easily pull and push the point were the central locking can be altered, which we unfortunately could not find during this initial attempt and this stopped us from going any further:(. Does anyone know where this leveler actuator goes inside the door and where it is suppose to link up to? Photos would be perfect if someone was to have any, even if it is after you pulled the system out, I really need to figure this out so I can install this system.

Thanks for all the advice mate ill definitely try and test your theory withe the yellow and 4th wires and see wat happens.

Schematic Update We are getting closer I think

Yeah I can understand this system nowadays is inferior to all the current alarm technology and it would be alot easier to have a modern system keyless entry system installed into my, unfortunately for I am a purist and would prefer to have an OEM system over an aftermarket system and its just a choice thing, I am only installing this system into my Z so I can reduce scaring my door handle paint around the keyhole as well as allow me to avoid using my key to unlock the drivers door. For the last year or so I have had this annoying problem with my drivers door lock where the key can actually turn the lock around by 360 degrees which I have investigated and is due to a broken/missing metal stopper on the end of the barrel and whenever my dad or a mechanic drives my car for whatever reason, they always end up flipping my lock and i then need to flip it back. I plan to fix the barrel eventually but this is to prolong the lock so it doesn't happen again in the future.

Thanks for the links mate, I actually already saved this a month again as the only real reference material I could find on the system. It doesnt really help me completely as its a how to for adding in a aftermarket remote system to the OEM system and so I didn't really read the information properly but now that I have read it I was able to get at least 3 wires identified from this photo:). The photo notes include the following; So I know can say the red/black wire is a definitely a constant 12V power wire and the white/brown white is for the unlock signal and the brown/black wire is for the lock signal. So its a start at least. I also agree the yellow wire must be accessory 12v power, now all I need to do is work out the other 2 wires and from what it sounds like they must be GND wires of so kind. Hopefully with this new information the answer might arise from this thread or another thread I have posted on the Australian forums.

Yeah I didnt think so as the wiring loom connects to the boot and the bonnet and is much more complex compared to this system and its not an infrared system either. I only though it may give clues to points of connection for wires that I need to connect to power and ground thats all. This I will definately try and test and I would the black/brown wire to be a GND wire from what I've read so far. Actually this is wrong, I decided to have a look at a wire that have some electrical tape around it and I found the wire doesn't connect to the sensor but joins up with the white/brown wire which connects to the actuator lever control unit. I need to update the schematic I made now to match that connection.

Thanks mate I have been looking at lymons response and it does look that way and is perfectly logical the red/black and yellow wires are most likely the power wires for the system. I can only assume the fact there are 2 different horn parts might indicate an alarm siren for one and the other might be signal for the system locking and unlocking the car. I barely know how this system works and I am trying to gather everything I can to make sense of how this system is suppose to operate and I hope I can eventually install it as i have always want a factory kelyess entry system as I have had nothing but bad experiences with aftermarket alarm systems.

thanks for your suggestions lymon, you have given me a better idea what the red/black and yellow wires might be used for and the other wires i am hoping might be as you said the ground wires. As this is a very rare dearler option system I dont have any schematics to use as reference and all I have been able to find is the 94+ OEM schematic which I doubt can be used as reference for this system. I can post it up if it helps but that system uses the rear hatch theft warning module and hood release as sensors for the system which my system doesnt have. Still it may give you a better idea may be used for connecting the wires up and maybe be a key into helping me install the system into my Z. I figured this as well but the system layout doesnt seem to show this as being possible unless it can be triggered by the door lock actuator, which is what I have been considering is the connection point for the lower 2 wires black/ground and green/black.

Hey guys, I was wondering if any electrical guru's could help me try and identify the best way to install this OEM infrared keyless entry system into my Z. I am aware there are much more advance and much better keyless entry systems on the market that are easier and better to use for car theft protection. I have never liked the idea of an aftermarket system and my expeirence with them has been all bad and a pain in the arse to fix or deal with. I do not want an aftermarket system so please don't offer me any as i am not interested please. Anyways from what I've gathered about OEM keyless entry systems available to the Z32 this was one of the systems offered for the 89-92 models and is designed around an the use of an infrared remote and sensor which when triggered unlocks the car. This particular system I believe was a dealer optioned keyless entry so not exactly OEM but as it was designed to fit into the Z it is as OEM as I can get. Here is the kit I purchased Now I was able to get a basic install layout from Nissan FAST which gives me some idea where everything should go and also the path for which the 4 separate wires I need to wire in roughly will go. I have painstakingly tracked all of the wires and made up a colored wiring diagram which I am hoping will make the install easier to do. The upper red/black and yellow wires I'm guess relate to the illumination of the indicators, so I can see when the car has been unlocked after using the remote. My best guess for these 2 wires is to connect them to the flasher unit but I could also use the hazard switch as well. The lower green and brown and black and brown wires I'm guessing are related to the alarm part of the system and might need to be connected to the system that detects when the doors are opened and closed or locked and unlocked. So my best guess is to wire these 2 wires into the door lock actuators as the wiring loom for the actuators do run along the door past the door handle but I am unsure which wires I would need to wire the system too. Here is a breakdown of the door lock actuator wiring. If anyone can help me identify the best way for me to install this system i would be very much appreciated.

Thanks for the responses guys, I have a feeling this might be a USDM thing and have asked the question to a buddy of mine from the states to maybe shed some light on the clock differences.

Hey guys, got a unusual question here, I recently purchased a used Z32 clock from japan and I noticed in the photos on the auction site that the clock has a bluish digit colour display; After a little bit of research I read a quote on the aus300zx forums by a member who stated that the later model Z32's got the indiglo/green/blue colour clocks just like the Nissan Maxima's did but no physical proof has been posted up proving this. All of the photos and brochures i have collected regarding information on the later model Z32's, all show white display clocks But I noticed on the clock today after I opened my package from Japan, the clip points for the front screen all have a small amount of a black tar glue substance covering each point, like it was factory sealed which kinda points to the clock being an unmodified unit which hasn't been tampered with. I have checked the info on the auction site and all it has listed is that the clock came out a of Z32 but no year or specific information I can use to go on. Does anyone known or have a factory blue digital clock in their Z, to help prove this is myth to be true or not? - - - Updated - - - I didn't link the photo correctly. my bad http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k276/DJ_Party_Favor/blue%20clock%20display.jpg' alt='blue%20clock%20display.jpg'>

yeah i'm still very much 50 / 50 on the idea as I don't know if any of the current market of DRL's are going to not look at of place. The intercooler ducts are my more prefered location if I every did this pipe dream of mine but the problem there is the opening is curve making 99% of aftermarket universal DRL's unusable without looking bad. These are a design that might fit the application but its hard to visualise it without further research Other options are these osram DRL's which I think might work for the front mouth opening All the flexible stuff just looks abit tacky to me and I would have to go a full sealed unit design like the ones I've just posted above. Still need to do more research.

Hey guys, I've been pondering whether to update my Z with some nice subtle daytime running lights which I think will give the Z a nice updated modern look I want to make for my Z. I have been looking at all the universal brands and stuff out on the net and I kinda know what I would prefer in turns of look and styling but I am not 100% which location would look better. Currently the 2 locations I'm thinking of is 1 would be at the upper section of the front mouth opening on the 2kspec front bar, beside the the sides of the standard front licence plate location. The other location I'm thinking of is on the upper section of each intercooler side mouth openings. The front opening is currently the easier option as most of the DRL's are all horizontal in design, The side openings would need to have a curve in its shape to flow with the lines of the opening which I haven't seen any brands as of yet that make this style of DRL. Just wanting some opinions on what people think about DRL's and what do you think about my proposed plan for the lights locations? I understand this is a somewhat bizarre kind of cosmetic upgrade for a 90's sports car to have, but I have noticed more and more modern day sports car with these DRL's either in their headlights or located on the front bar. I think with the right styling a DRL could work on a Z32 but I have only done a few hours of researching into DRL's and was hoping to get opinions on what the rest of the Z community thought of the idea.

Thanks Ben, I have done a ton of research into the later models and I like to think of myself as a guru with what I have found and documented. I built a 2000spec replica model Z32 which includes options from the JDM, USDM, EURO and ADM models and also the Stillen 25th anniversary model to make a one of a kind special edition Z32. Now with the interior shots you have posted gives a unusual idea of what year your Z might be. So fro what i can see old seats you had were both grey tweed material which is 89-92 only. your interior panels tho look like they are the series 5 (97-98) model black tweed material and you have b pillar seat belts. So its a good chance it may be a 1998 model but an early one built before October of 1998 as that's when the series 6 model was released and the new exterior and interior improvements were added. If you can get a photo of your VIN number (top of the firewall in the middle behind all the wiring loom) or VIN plate located on the chassis supper rail next to the RH side headlight in the engine bay I could check the number with Nissan FAST and tell you exactly what year your Z was built.

My best guess is you have an early model 1998 as you still have an older front bar, Brake Master Cylinder and the paint colour is the normal silver metallic. if you had a later model your Z would look a little different.