DJ_Party_Favor

Thanks for all the advice mate ill definitely try and test your theory withe the yellow and 4th wires and see wat happens.

Schematic Update We are getting closer I think

Yeah I can understand this system nowadays is inferior to all the current alarm technology and it would be alot easier to have a modern system keyless entry system installed into my, unfortunately for I am a purist and would prefer to have an OEM system over an aftermarket system and its just a choice thing, I am only installing this system into my Z so I can reduce scaring my door handle paint around the keyhole as well as allow me to avoid using my key to unlock the drivers door. For the last year or so I have had this annoying problem with my drivers door lock where the key can actually turn the lock around by 360 degrees which I have investigated and is due to a broken/missing metal stopper on the end of the barrel and whenever my dad or a mechanic drives my car for whatever reason, they always end up flipping my lock and i then need to flip it back. I plan to fix the barrel eventually but this is to prolong the lock so it doesn't happen again in the future.

Thanks for the links mate, I actually already saved this a month again as the only real reference material I could find on the system. It doesnt really help me completely as its a how to for adding in a aftermarket remote system to the OEM system and so I didn't really read the information properly but now that I have read it I was able to get at least 3 wires identified from this photo:). The photo notes include the following; So I know can say the red/black wire is a definitely a constant 12V power wire and the white/brown white is for the unlock signal and the brown/black wire is for the lock signal. So its a start at least. I also agree the yellow wire must be accessory 12v power, now all I need to do is work out the other 2 wires and from what it sounds like they must be GND wires of so kind. Hopefully with this new information the answer might arise from this thread or another thread I have posted on the Australian forums.

Yeah I didnt think so as the wiring loom connects to the boot and the bonnet and is much more complex compared to this system and its not an infrared system either. I only though it may give clues to points of connection for wires that I need to connect to power and ground thats all. This I will definately try and test and I would the black/brown wire to be a GND wire from what I've read so far. Actually this is wrong, I decided to have a look at a wire that have some electrical tape around it and I found the wire doesn't connect to the sensor but joins up with the white/brown wire which connects to the actuator lever control unit. I need to update the schematic I made now to match that connection.

Thanks mate I have been looking at lymons response and it does look that way and is perfectly logical the red/black and yellow wires are most likely the power wires for the system. I can only assume the fact there are 2 different horn parts might indicate an alarm siren for one and the other might be signal for the system locking and unlocking the car. I barely know how this system works and I am trying to gather everything I can to make sense of how this system is suppose to operate and I hope I can eventually install it as i have always want a factory kelyess entry system as I have had nothing but bad experiences with aftermarket alarm systems.

thanks for your suggestions lymon, you have given me a better idea what the red/black and yellow wires might be used for and the other wires i am hoping might be as you said the ground wires. As this is a very rare dearler option system I dont have any schematics to use as reference and all I have been able to find is the 94+ OEM schematic which I doubt can be used as reference for this system. I can post it up if it helps but that system uses the rear hatch theft warning module and hood release as sensors for the system which my system doesnt have. Still it may give you a better idea may be used for connecting the wires up and maybe be a key into helping me install the system into my Z. I figured this as well but the system layout doesnt seem to show this as being possible unless it can be triggered by the door lock actuator, which is what I have been considering is the connection point for the lower 2 wires black/ground and green/black.

Hey guys, I was wondering if any electrical guru's could help me try and identify the best way to install this OEM infrared keyless entry system into my Z. I am aware there are much more advance and much better keyless entry systems on the market that are easier and better to use for car theft protection. I have never liked the idea of an aftermarket system and my expeirence with them has been all bad and a pain in the arse to fix or deal with. I do not want an aftermarket system so please don't offer me any as i am not interested please. Anyways from what I've gathered about OEM keyless entry systems available to the Z32 this was one of the systems offered for the 89-92 models and is designed around an the use of an infrared remote and sensor which when triggered unlocks the car. This particular system I believe was a dealer optioned keyless entry so not exactly OEM but as it was designed to fit into the Z it is as OEM as I can get. Here is the kit I purchased Now I was able to get a basic install layout from Nissan FAST which gives me some idea where everything should go and also the path for which the 4 separate wires I need to wire in roughly will go. I have painstakingly tracked all of the wires and made up a colored wiring diagram which I am hoping will make the install easier to do. The upper red/black and yellow wires I'm guess relate to the illumination of the indicators, so I can see when the car has been unlocked after using the remote. My best guess for these 2 wires is to connect them to the flasher unit but I could also use the hazard switch as well. The lower green and brown and black and brown wires I'm guessing are related to the alarm part of the system and might need to be connected to the system that detects when the doors are opened and closed or locked and unlocked. So my best guess is to wire these 2 wires into the door lock actuators as the wiring loom for the actuators do run along the door past the door handle but I am unsure which wires I would need to wire the system too. Here is a breakdown of the door lock actuator wiring. If anyone can help me identify the best way for me to install this system i would be very much appreciated.

Thanks for the responses guys, I have a feeling this might be a USDM thing and have asked the question to a buddy of mine from the states to maybe shed some light on the clock differences.

Hey guys, got a unusual question here, I recently purchased a used Z32 clock from japan and I noticed in the photos on the auction site that the clock has a bluish digit colour display; After a little bit of research I read a quote on the aus300zx forums by a member who stated that the later model Z32's got the indiglo/green/blue colour clocks just like the Nissan Maxima's did but no physical proof has been posted up proving this. All of the photos and brochures i have collected regarding information on the later model Z32's, all show white display clocks But I noticed on the clock today after I opened my package from Japan, the clip points for the front screen all have a small amount of a black tar glue substance covering each point, like it was factory sealed which kinda points to the clock being an unmodified unit which hasn't been tampered with. I have checked the info on the auction site and all it has listed is that the clock came out a of Z32 but no year or specific information I can use to go on. Does anyone known or have a factory blue digital clock in their Z, to help prove this is myth to be true or not? - - - Updated - - - I didn't link the photo correctly. my bad http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k276/DJ_Party_Favor/blue%20clock%20display.jpg' alt='blue%20clock%20display.jpg'>

yeah i'm still very much 50 / 50 on the idea as I don't know if any of the current market of DRL's are going to not look at of place. The intercooler ducts are my more prefered location if I every did this pipe dream of mine but the problem there is the opening is curve making 99% of aftermarket universal DRL's unusable without looking bad. These are a design that might fit the application but its hard to visualise it without further research Other options are these osram DRL's which I think might work for the front mouth opening All the flexible stuff just looks abit tacky to me and I would have to go a full sealed unit design like the ones I've just posted above. Still need to do more research.

Hey guys, I've been pondering whether to update my Z with some nice subtle daytime running lights which I think will give the Z a nice updated modern look I want to make for my Z. I have been looking at all the universal brands and stuff out on the net and I kinda know what I would prefer in turns of look and styling but I am not 100% which location would look better. Currently the 2 locations I'm thinking of is 1 would be at the upper section of the front mouth opening on the 2kspec front bar, beside the the sides of the standard front licence plate location. The other location I'm thinking of is on the upper section of each intercooler side mouth openings. The front opening is currently the easier option as most of the DRL's are all horizontal in design, The side openings would need to have a curve in its shape to flow with the lines of the opening which I haven't seen any brands as of yet that make this style of DRL. Just wanting some opinions on what people think about DRL's and what do you think about my proposed plan for the lights locations? I understand this is a somewhat bizarre kind of cosmetic upgrade for a 90's sports car to have, but I have noticed more and more modern day sports car with these DRL's either in their headlights or located on the front bar. I think with the right styling a DRL could work on a Z32 but I have only done a few hours of researching into DRL's and was hoping to get opinions on what the rest of the Z community thought of the idea.

Thanks Ben, I have done a ton of research into the later models and I like to think of myself as a guru with what I have found and documented. I built a 2000spec replica model Z32 which includes options from the JDM, USDM, EURO and ADM models and also the Stillen 25th anniversary model to make a one of a kind special edition Z32. Now with the interior shots you have posted gives a unusual idea of what year your Z might be. So fro what i can see old seats you had were both grey tweed material which is 89-92 only. your interior panels tho look like they are the series 5 (97-98) model black tweed material and you have b pillar seat belts. So its a good chance it may be a 1998 model but an early one built before October of 1998 as that's when the series 6 model was released and the new exterior and interior improvements were added. If you can get a photo of your VIN number (top of the firewall in the middle behind all the wiring loom) or VIN plate located on the chassis supper rail next to the RH side headlight in the engine bay I could check the number with Nissan FAST and tell you exactly what year your Z was built.

My best guess is you have an early model 1998 as you still have an older front bar, Brake Master Cylinder and the paint colour is the normal silver metallic. if you had a later model your Z would look a little different.

It differently was the perfect well for us to honor him. Unfortunately I have only seen this member bring his Z to a couple of events and he doesn't post much on the forums. Apparently his wheels were a little bit of a talking point on the cruise as he used a lime green accent strip to define the wheels and it did improve the overall look quite nicely.

It was a fitting event for a member who would help anyone in need and would ask for nothing in return. He was the first member I ever met from the aus300zx forums and was the kind of guy who would make funny jokes and lighten the mood and did I lot for the forums. It was a great day for cruising and we all believe he had a hand in it for us. I think it would be great for you guys to post events on our forums and share the Z love around the globe. I have posted this on the US forums as well. - - - Updated - - - thanks mate, it was my pleasure.

Couldn't help get a nice updated shot of my 2kspec Replica Z, so proud After Lunch, we headed off for some twisty country roads and some spirited driving. Me being the nanny driver I am, I found it hard to keep up with the more adventurous drivers in-front of me who were leading the pack, but thankfully my OEM TT adjustable suspension helped me keep a fast pace through the twisties and kept me with the pack. We stopped after the twisties to let the the rear pack catch up to the front pack. All the neighbors in the street came out taking photos of all the Z's and that is why I love these cars so much. We continued on our way and after driving through some long country highway roads we finally arrived at the Flying Tarts Bakery for a breather and some snacks and drinks, along with abit of socializing time between the attendees. From there we headed back to Watsonia Train Station and traveled along some of the scariest and narrowest twistie roads I've ever driven on. I was glad when we finally made it back to suburbia and the roads were not so narrow. LOL After arriving back in the Watsonia car park one of the members did a small burnout from what I've heard and then we ended up with 4-5 police cars making an appearance and keeping a watchful eye on us. We did do a group photoshoot with everyone who attended today at the end of the cruise but I unfortunately didn't take any photos of that and you will need to check they out on the aus300zx forums. Here is the thread link: Doug Memorial Cruise 2014[/CENT

By 9:30am we had reached the peak attendance for the event and I think we counted between 25-28 cars and this number could possibly rival the famous GOR cruise's attendance number record. After a short briefing to everyone from the cruise organiser about the planned cruise route, we then left Watsonia for our first destination and with such a large group of Z's it was a struggle to even get out of the car park A couple of shots as we cruised to towards Yea. After some very long drive through some of Victoria's scenic country side we landed in the small town of Yea, where we got to stretch our legs and get some food and drinks for lunch. Again we were able to claim the car park as our own Z haven.

Hey everyone, we recently held a Z cruise in Victoria to honor a very well known aus300zx forum member who passed away earlier this year. The cruise was held on the same day as the members birthday so it was fitting the Victoria members band together on what would have been his 65th birthday to celebrate and enjoy our Z cars the way he would have done himself and wanted us all to do ourselves as well. Ok so here is how the day all unfolded; The cruise was to start at the Watsonia Train Station Car park at 9am Sunday morning. Being one of the first to make it to the meeting point it didn't take very long to have a sea of Z's flowing into the car park and filling all of the parking spots. One of the crowds favorites on the day The battle for who has the shiniest engine bay

Looks like there is still some fight still in him.

Better yet join the discussion on the aus300zx forums:laugh: Which year is the best?

Well he wants the proper Nissan fast terminology to be used so for example 93/07 98/10 etc etc. I then asked him so why do u use PTU and CAS why are you using Power Transistor Unit and Crank Angle Sensor or arguing with people when they abbreviate terms and so far he has said nothing.

LOL this comment was golden for me funky, to me he is just a little prick thinking he knows better but unwilling to adopt to a system that I think makes perfect sense and is super easy to understand. I'm glad to know there are people out like yourself who believe the same as I do and think this system is perfectly fine even though its not an official term used by Nissan.

Well I try gary but like you said can't please everyone. I expect some negative responses from my Z's build because why would you spend $40k on a Z32 making it OEM when you could made it a super powerful racing TT machine, whch seems to be the norm on the aussie forums these days. But I prefer OEM and went out of my way to make the best OEM restored relicia series 6 Z32 anyone has ever seen. Hopefully the shear amount of work I have done will quill the nah Sayers.

Thanks for the response guys, yeah I am not sure why he attacks me for using the term series and as I am developing a massive build thread for my Z's 2kspec transformation for you guys to see and read about I just want to make sure I wasn't going to create negative responses and feedback from member who complain about this system which I find super easy to understand. The US guys are mostly for it but a couple don't think its correct sayng just say the year as that's more accurate but I have explained that just because you say I have a 93 model Z doesn't mean it has the 93+ model changes to it as the series 2 Z32 stopped in '93/09 and so if you Z was produced after '93/09 it is a series 3 so its easy to understand for me. We aussies are easy going people this guys is just one that seems to get pissed off when someone references the term series. He is not abad guys and is always helping members with part number and chassis information when they are posted on the forums but yeah this is the second time he has argued with me about the term series which I tried to use 2kspec and series 6 so I was not adding any confusion to my explanation but he went off calling it a system that makes everyone dumber using it. So he called me dumb in a way.