DJ_Party_Favor

Hey everyone, I thought you all might get a kick out this abomination 300ZX which is going to be featured on "Wrench Everyday"'s YouTube channel. Anyways if you want to know the short of the video, a YouTuber named Tavarish who has a few project cars he features rebuilds on, including a a and a just to know a few, has just purchased for his second more budget friendly YouTube channel "Wrenches Everyday" a sad looking 300zx with a twist, its a VH45 powered 300zx but this car is a total mess, the original owner sold the car for $1500 USD as an unfinished project car which the owner was planning to install a diesel turbo onto his VH45 swap and then make a custom exhaust system exit through the rear center panel. The interior is shocking with a mess of of under-dash wiring loom hack job and the heater core system moved to the boot so he could fit the turbo as well as the rad support panel that has be cut to allow the radiator to fit, its pretty depressing to be honest in my mind anyways. I've seen Tavarish's earlier videos regarding the lambo and ferrari builds which I have found interesting to watch and see some of the problems these expensive car have he has to fix. and I'm hoping he can bring this car back to a more decent state and maybe put the 300zx on the YouTube map for a little bit and help motive me to keep working on my own Z for the time being. If you watched the video what do you guys think of this poor Z the original owner needs to be shot that is for sure.

it could be a number of things but from my personal auto headaches ive had in the past 12 years i think the auto ecu is the weak link in the whole system. my z has had probably the exact same issue as you describe not wanting to shift from 1st into second gear and ive even gone up to the rev limiter at low speed and the auto just wont shift. i found info last year pointing to the auto ecu failing and needing resoldering so i decided to swap out my na auto ecu to a tt one and since the the shifts are back to normal. i still want to service the auto with new fluid soon but i think the auto ecu may need servicing to help fix your issue.

Excellent just what I wanted to hear, thank you joely p. Last time I bleed my brakes back in 2011 (I know a long time ago) I never touched the abs module but now I am OCD when it comes to servicing my Z and I wasnt sure if the ABS module would get bleed as you bleed the calipers anyways. I am going to be swapping my front brake calipers so the system needs to be bleed anyways and I felt I need to get the old brake fluid out of the ABS module asap. I'm planning on using a power bleeder tool to pressurise the system from the brake master and then push the brake fluid out from the calipers and abs module.

hey guys just wanted to ask has anyone every bleed the abs module after bleeding all for calipers during a standard brake bleed as the fsm states in the braking section? just wanting opinions if you should do it or not really.

hi mate unfortunately i just cant sell you my spare remote i need both remotes incase one dies on me in the future. and even if i did the remote would need to be recalibrated to your systems infa red signal which i wouldnt have a clue how to do that. i think the best option for you to try is to try and find a universal infa red remote that you can set the infa red frequency and if you can find you systems specific frequency code the you dont need an oem remote.

if your looking for more information here is a link to the original thread i posted on here last year when i purchased the kit from japan. https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?182365-Electrical-Guru-Help-installing-OEM-Keyless-Entry-System At the time of that thread i hadnt found that installation guide that was posted above, so i managed to wire half of the system via the stereo shroud clock wiring loom and for the time being the system works for locking and unlocking the car remotely. i am still yet to finish the install of the alarm part of the system which with the install guide i now know where to slice the remaining wires to to complete the installation of the entire system. i just need to find time to pull the doors apart and a little under the dash over the next few months and once its done ill post my results on here.

i enquired about the kit and fob a year ago all nla.

if i knew that i would have brought a bunch of them ill post up the kit i installed later tonight but its a very basic looking fob with only 1 button and 1 little red led to indicate when you press the button to unlock the car.

unfortujately no those remotes wont work as they are microwace based remotes. you need an infa red remote that you need to point directly at that door sensor reciever.

thats an infrad red remote sensor for the oem dearler option alarm system for the 89-93 models. very rare but are somewhat outdated technology. i installed one of these alarm systems in my z and it take a few pushes of the remote to get the car unlocked which can be annoying some times. i have the original install manual the dealers would have used to install it into customers cars. if you decide you dont want it, i would be interested in purchasing the whole system from you if your planning to remove it.

ive installed lhd heated mirrors into my jdm rhd car. it takes a little getting use to but i kinda prefer the wider drivers side view i get with lhd passenger door mirror.

Thanks mate i differently will

Hey everyone, in preparation for a Z cruise I plan to attend next weekend, I thought I try to clean and detail my engine bay before the event on Sunday the 26th of October. I am pretty happy with the end result and the engine bay is finally looking nice and clean as well as a little shinier too:cool2:. I did have plans to clean my undercarriage and wheel wells too but I just didn't have time today to get all that done along with the engine bay clean. I plan to clean the interior and wash the exterior of the car the day before the event, so my Z can look its best on the day. I used Megiaurs Super degreaser diluted at a 4:1 ratio (heavy duty solution) to clean and degrease the engine bay and then after drying the whole bay down, I used Mothers Trim restorer to coat and protect the plastic and rubber parts of the engine bay. So what do you guys think?

also have you considered the problem with the differences in the lower plenums for the new injectors? from memory the shape of the channel the injector sits in is a slightly different shape it could affect the new injectors spray pattern into the cylinder.

hate to bust your bubble funky but you wont be able to install the later tps on and older z32 the voltage range is different and from what i know cant be changed. you will have to slice in the old tps harness connector.

for me the 98-00 brake master cylinder tells me its a genuine 2000 spec those bmc were only avaiable to the very last z32 models then theres the xenon headlights, instrument cluster, front bar and tail lights.

there is an oem option for auto folding mirrors. i managed to purchase the optional kit from japan a few years ago and i installed it into my z but i bad 2 wires to have to wire up to make it all work. zek1 has the same oem system and he figured it out and im planning to finish the wiring one day in the future.

I actually bidded on these before I read the description and realised the seller who is Z32-Zone stated "I can only do cash on delivery" which meant even if I won the auction I probably wouldn't have got my hands on these super rare T-tops anyways. Thank god I got outbided withing a few hours of making my bid.

i installed one in my jdm a year or two ago along with the factory precut duct tube panel and from my research information it was an optional extra you could choose to buy along with all the other options on the z. as for function it serves a purpose and it does make the aircon keep the driver cooler better with this vent installed on hot days as well as warmer on vold days. highly recommend it if you can find one.

yes i will be trimming the diffuser to allow for the tow hooks to remain in place.

i am considering doing that when i eventually paint my twinz rear diffuser and fit it hopefully sometime this year.

fair enough i just thought id suggest it to you all. like i said ive never noticed a single drop of water entering the truck and ive blasted my tail lights with pressure washer heaps of time and driving in flood like rain and i was more concerned with my roof leaking them the tail lights.

Ok so its made by MoroDay and its a thick dense foam steal strip which has an adhesive backing on one side of the seal. I purchased it from a hardware shop called Bunnings over here in Australia and cost me about $12 AUD for for a 3 meter length strip which is 6.4 mm thick. Here is the product As I was installing the new 99spec tail lights I didn't need to remove the old tar goo that's on the back of the tail lights. All I had to do was cut the foam seal in half to match the channel the seal would be adhering to and cut enough lengths to cover the entire length of the tail light like so Once I was ready to install the tail light I removed the paper cover on the back of the none sticky side of the foam seal and mounted the tail light into place. As the tail light is screwed into the rear chassis part of the car the seal compress's and creates a water tight seal which has never leaked on me once in now 5 years. The benefit with using this foam seal is if I ever need to take the tail lights off the car I simply remove the trim panel and unscrew the tail lights and pull them off with no fuss and no mess what so ever. And the finished result

probably it was called truck seal lining for doors. came in a roll strip ill post photos for you this afternoon si.

i would recommend using a single sided foam abhesive tape to replace the tar seal on the tail lights. i did it for mine and they worked great. i can take the lights off whenever i like would the need to heat or soften the glue. if u need more details i can give them to you.