DJ_Party_Favor

As i had all my oem wheels polished the letter has been almost worn off the wheels making it difficult to know which is L and which is R. Ive documented a photo illustration for the correct orientation of the wheels to avoid the wheel police in the future. As for the usdm wheels they are rare as hell over here in australia so it gives my Z some exclusivity driving with them and they fit the rear guards way better imo. Also i spent nearly a $1000 aud getting them shipped down from japan 6 years ago, so i cant justify not using them. The only other wheels i am considering using if i do decide to change is the smz avs wheels but they are also rare here in aus and i cant afford to spend that kind of money on the Z anymore, with a young family and saving for a house. So Im happy with what i have.

thanks gio, ive spent a small fortune on the exterior and interior to make my z look like a 2000 version R model and im now trying to catch up on all the mechanical problems i neglected to fix. Your probably right about the wheels mate and because of that error i have worn out my rear 8.5 inch USDM oem wheels thread down to nearly balled, so again more money needs to be spent and these tyres sizes for those wheels over here in australia are an odd size and hard to get. But ill continue to keep it on the road as best i can and im still not finised with my project yet i have heaps of upgrade plans and adding more rare parts to the car in the future.

Episode 3 Is Live:) With the replacement underdash harness installed, the car now starts, runs but barely idles and even drives under its own power. well done guys.

Thats everyone for likes i hope to one day post a documentation of my Zeds build but unfortunately it seems all the daily driving over the past 12 years has surface a large list of issues and repairs i am now in the process of trying to fix/improve and with very little money to spend on the car repairs are extremely slow and frustrating to deal with but hopefully when my Zed is more completely ill be able to share the fruits of my labour to the worldwide Z community.

Well my 89 jdm na 2+2 i purchased in 2006 had 98,000 km fresh of the boat from japan and in 2019 the car has just ticked over 260,000 kms. Mine is a daily as well and my first and only Z ive ever owned so far.

I had a feeling it was the maf. I had the same thing happen to me as I mentioned earlier took me a few weeks to find info on the and video showing the exact same symptoms as I was having. their suggestion was replace the maf and it worked for me.

I found the video and its related to hesitation in the 300zx but might be useful information to help diagnose your problem.

I would like to suggest unplugging the mag sensor first then start the car as per normal. this is way I did when I was diagnosing my dead maf problem. it could change nothing mind you but I would also suggest changing the Bosch plugs for ngk plugs. there's a YouTube video I watched years ago of a US mechanic fixing a 300zx who stated in the video you must use ngk spark plugs on in our engines only anything else and the engine won't function within factory spec.

when u disconnect the maf the car will be in limp mode. I did this to diagnose a dead maf sensor back when I had idle problems in 2015. with the maf disconnected my car idled perfectly which pinpointed my problem straight away. i replaced the sensor with a new oem one and i havent had an idle problem since.

ah sorry forgot about how old that thread is. he recently had his car detailed by a shop recently and his car looks immaculate in the photos. https://aus300zx.com/xenforo/index.php?posts/1480458/

the rear rear wing is an impulse design he is one of my z master who I see regularly at meets over here in victoria Australia. he has a beautiful car to say the least and a very rare spoiler design. here is his cars specs if anyone is interested https://aus300zx.com/xenforo/index.php?threads/my-zed-with-some-improvements.334224/

ok but why wouldnt you want to exceed oil specs for such an old engine? also fs doesnt mean longer life its a common fact here in australia. fs doesnt mean you can extended you service intervals. Im no oil engineer or even a mechanic but from what i know fs is the best oil you can put in any car with the best lubrication properties to protect the engine better then min or semi type oils. it also has much higher durability at high temperatures and i wouldnt put anything else in my z then fa but thats just my opinion so i was just curious why that was the geniune consensus. at least the weights you guys use are in factory spec. i run 10w50 so 10w40 pretty much the same. also i know castrol oils are made in malaysia in case thats not common knowledge amongst everyone here.

not to sound stupid but why isnt full synthetic oil recommendesd for the vg30 engines. ive been using fs engine oil for at least a decade with no ill affects what so ever and im now adding engine treatments to further reduce friction and wear on startup. your saying this is bad for the vg30?

[centre]episode 2 is live [video=youtube_share;z4MGyBt9ZJY] just as i suspected the car wont start at all but thats what you get with a wiring harness as bad as this car had.​[/center]

Hey everyone, I thought you all might get a kick out this abomination 300ZX which is going to be featured on "Wrench Everyday"'s YouTube channel. Anyways if you want to know the short of the video, a YouTuber named Tavarish who has a few project cars he features rebuilds on, including a a and a just to know a few, has just purchased for his second more budget friendly YouTube channel "Wrenches Everyday" a sad looking 300zx with a twist, its a VH45 powered 300zx but this car is a total mess, the original owner sold the car for $1500 USD as an unfinished project car which the owner was planning to install a diesel turbo onto his VH45 swap and then make a custom exhaust system exit through the rear center panel. The interior is shocking with a mess of of under-dash wiring loom hack job and the heater core system moved to the boot so he could fit the turbo as well as the rad support panel that has be cut to allow the radiator to fit, its pretty depressing to be honest in my mind anyways. I've seen Tavarish's earlier videos regarding the lambo and ferrari builds which I have found interesting to watch and see some of the problems these expensive car have he has to fix. and I'm hoping he can bring this car back to a more decent state and maybe put the 300zx on the YouTube map for a little bit and help motive me to keep working on my own Z for the time being. If you watched the video what do you guys think of this poor Z the original owner needs to be shot that is for sure.

it could be a number of things but from my personal auto headaches ive had in the past 12 years i think the auto ecu is the weak link in the whole system. my z has had probably the exact same issue as you describe not wanting to shift from 1st into second gear and ive even gone up to the rev limiter at low speed and the auto just wont shift. i found info last year pointing to the auto ecu failing and needing resoldering so i decided to swap out my na auto ecu to a tt one and since the the shifts are back to normal. i still want to service the auto with new fluid soon but i think the auto ecu may need servicing to help fix your issue.

Excellent just what I wanted to hear, thank you joely p. Last time I bleed my brakes back in 2011 (I know a long time ago) I never touched the abs module but now I am OCD when it comes to servicing my Z and I wasnt sure if the ABS module would get bleed as you bleed the calipers anyways. I am going to be swapping my front brake calipers so the system needs to be bleed anyways and I felt I need to get the old brake fluid out of the ABS module asap. I'm planning on using a power bleeder tool to pressurise the system from the brake master and then push the brake fluid out from the calipers and abs module.

hey guys just wanted to ask has anyone every bleed the abs module after bleeding all for calipers during a standard brake bleed as the fsm states in the braking section? just wanting opinions if you should do it or not really.

hi mate unfortunately i just cant sell you my spare remote i need both remotes incase one dies on me in the future. and even if i did the remote would need to be recalibrated to your systems infa red signal which i wouldnt have a clue how to do that. i think the best option for you to try is to try and find a universal infa red remote that you can set the infa red frequency and if you can find you systems specific frequency code the you dont need an oem remote.

if your looking for more information here is a link to the original thread i posted on here last year when i purchased the kit from japan. https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?182365-Electrical-Guru-Help-installing-OEM-Keyless-Entry-System At the time of that thread i hadnt found that installation guide that was posted above, so i managed to wire half of the system via the stereo shroud clock wiring loom and for the time being the system works for locking and unlocking the car remotely. i am still yet to finish the install of the alarm part of the system which with the install guide i now know where to slice the remaining wires to to complete the installation of the entire system. i just need to find time to pull the doors apart and a little under the dash over the next few months and once its done ill post my results on here.

i enquired about the kit and fob a year ago all nla.

if i knew that i would have brought a bunch of them ill post up the kit i installed later tonight but its a very basic looking fob with only 1 button and 1 little red led to indicate when you press the button to unlock the car.

unfortujately no those remotes wont work as they are microwace based remotes. you need an infa red remote that you need to point directly at that door sensor reciever.

thats an infrad red remote sensor for the oem dearler option alarm system for the 89-93 models. very rare but are somewhat outdated technology. i installed one of these alarm systems in my z and it take a few pushes of the remote to get the car unlocked which can be annoying some times. i have the original install manual the dealers would have used to install it into customers cars. if you decide you dont want it, i would be interested in purchasing the whole system from you if your planning to remove it.

ive installed lhd heated mirrors into my jdm rhd car. it takes a little getting use to but i kinda prefer the wider drivers side view i get with lhd passenger door mirror.