DJ_Party_Favor

PART ACQUISITIONS FOR THE MONTH OF SEPTEMBER 2025 Onto some better news now, everyone. As many of you know, since getting the car back on the road, I've been dealing with an issue where the transmission isn't shifting through the gears as it should. While it hasn't stopped me from driving the car, it's definitely a problem that will need to be addressed once the ongoing brake issues are finally resolved over the coming weeks or months. As I've mentioned in a couple of previous updates, I suspect the transmission is currently unable to shift into both 2nd and 4th gear. My assumption is that the gearbox will ultimately need to be removed, disassembled and rebuilt to rectify the fault. While this won't be a small undertaking, my dad and I are planning to tackle the rebuild ourselves. Not only will this save a significant amount in labour costs, but it will also give us the opportunity to learn more about the RE4R01A transmission by removing it from the car, stripping it down, rebuilding it, and reinstalling it ourselves. Although rebuilding the original transmission would save a considerable amount of money, it would also leave the car off the road for quite some time. After already spending around six to seven months working through the brake bleeding issues since February, the thought of having the car out of action for another extended period of time just wasn't particularly appealing. With that in mind, I spent the next seven months casually searching the internet for a good used RE4R01A transmission. If I could find a complete, working unit at the right price, it would be a much faster way of getting the car back on the road while allowing me to rebuild my original gearbox at my own pace. My first option was to reach out to my contact in Japan, Jesse Streeter, to see if he could source a transmission from Yahoo! Auctions Japan. There were a few promising listings available, but unfortunately he wasn't able to arrange shipping for something as large and heavy as a complete transmission to Australia. That ruled out importing one from Japan almost immediately. My next step was to speak with a local JDM parts supplier and mechanic to see if he had a suitable transmission available or knew of someone who did. As it turned out, he did have a used twin-turbo RE4R03A transmission for sale, but it also required a complete rebuild. To make matters worse, he wanted $2,000 AUD for the faulty gearbox, with the additional condition that I hand over my original transmission as a rebuildable core for him to sell to the next customer. Although I'd had reasonable dealings with him throughout this restoration, the proposal simply didn't stack up. I'd still have to rebuild the replacement transmission, spend a considerable amount of money, and lose my original gearbox in the process. When I weighed everything up, rebuilding my own transmission was clearly the more sensible option, so I politely declined the offer and continued my search. As the months passed, it became increasingly obvious just how difficult these transmissions are to find in Australia. Japan had several used RE4R01A gearboxes available for between $200 and $400 AUD, but without a practical way to ship them here they were effectively out of reach. There were also a number of transmissions available in the United States, but once freight costs were factored in, importing one simply wasn't financially viable. Given how common manual conversions are within the 300ZX community, I genuinely expected there to be a healthy supply of second-hand automatic transmissions on the market. Instead, my search proved the exact opposite. At least here in Australia, good used RE4R01A transmissions are surprisingly scarce, making the hunt far more challenging than I had ever anticipated. Just when I thought all hope was lost, I stumbled across an online advertisement from an automotive workshop located in Western Australia offering a used 300ZX automatic transmission for just $1,000 AUD. Initially I thought that this shop was located overseas but when I realised it was a shop located in Australia I knew that this was going to be the one I was looking for. Needless to say, I couldn't contain my excitement when I came across the listing. I immediately called my dad to discuss the possibility of purchasing the transmission as a replacement for my faulty original gearbox. After talking it through, we realised there were still a number of important questions that needed answering before committing to the purchase. The listing didn't mention whether the transmission was in good working condition, nor did it specify whether it was the naturally aspirated RE4R01A or the twin-turbo RE4R03A model. On top of that, the cost of shipping such a large and heavy item across the country was a complete unknown, and that's always something I like to factor into the total cost before proceeding with a purchase. I emailed the workshop to ask them more about the transmission and answer my questions above as well requested an estimate on shipping the transmission across the country to Victoria when I'm located. The workshop promptly replied later that day, confirming that the transmission had been operating perfectly before being removed from the donor vehicle. Unfortunately, they couldn't tell me exactly which version of the transmission it was which was surprising but they said they were look into it for me. After doing some research into the visual differences between the naturally aspirated and twin-turbo gearboxes, I carefully examined the photos in the listing and thankfully, all the identifying features on this gearbox pointed towards it being an NA RE4R01A transmission, which was exactly what I needed to match my existing drivetrain. The biggest surprise, however, was the shipping cost. Despite the transmission needing to travel over 3,400 kilometres across Australia, the workshop quoted just $50 AUD for freight directly to my door. That was a deal I simply couldn't pass up. With all of my questions answered, there was nothing left to do but purchase the transmission. I completed the payment immediately, and once the tracking details came through, I was amazed to see the estimated delivery time from Western Australia to Victoria was only two to three business days. I honestly couldn't believe my eyes. When it arrived later that week, I couldn't have been happier. The entire buying experience was smooth from start to finish, and I was genuinely impressed that a complete transmission could be transported across the country so quickly—and for such an incredibly low freight cost. It was one of those rare purchases where everything came together perfectly. https://i.postimg.cc/G2R1vx8n/1-Second-Hand-RE4r01A-Automatic-Transmission-Purchased-1.jpg The unit was strapped down to a wooden pallet and covering in black shrink wrap. Because I had the transmission delivered to my work address, I wasn't able to transport the transmission home myself, so I arranged for my dad to drive up in his SUV to collect it and bring it back to his place. The plan was to give the gearbox a thorough inspection, remove the transmission pan, and carefully check the condition of the internals before making any decisions. If everything checked out, the replacement transmission could simply be installed once the brake bleeding issue was finally resolved. Alternatively, we could have this gearbox fully rebuilt first and then install it, giving me a freshly reconditioned transmission from the outset. At this stage, we were still weighing up which approach would be the better long-term solution. https://i.postimg.cc/bvkhGBJq/2-Second-Hand-RE4r01A-Automatic-Transmission-Purchased-2.jpg Finally home safe and sound ready for a thorough inspection process to begin. For now, though, I'm simply relieved to have found an affordable RE4R01A automatic transmission that is hopefully in excellent working condition. After months of searching, it feels like a huge weight has been lifted, and I'm looking forward to inspecting it properly before eventually installing it in the car.

FRONT BRAKE CALIPER PREP BEFORE SANDBLASTING With the rear brake calipers now fully sandblasted and stripped of their original factory protective coating, it was time to move on to the used iron TT front brake calipers that I disassembled last month. Having refined the masking process on the rear calipers, I followed the exact same procedure on the front pair to ensure every critical surface remained protected during blasting. The two mating surfaces where each caliper half joins together were carefully masked off. The piston bores were then filled with foam, and the dust boot covers were reinstalled to prevent any blasting media from entering the piston bores. https://i.postimg.cc/7Pd3KJLt/2-Masking-Up-Blocking-Off-Process-(Front-Brake-Calipers)-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/66grM4QM/2-Masking-Up-Blocking-Off-Process-(Front-Brake-Calipers)-2.jpg The final stage of the preparation involved blocking off all the threaded bolt holes using heavy-duty sacrificial fasteners. This protects the threads from blasting media while ensuring they remain clean and undamaged. With that complete, both front calipers are now fully prepared for sandblasting before receiving a fresh, durable protective coating. https://i.postimg.cc/7Pd3KJLm/3-Masking-Up-Blocking-Off-Process-(Front-Brake-Calipers)-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/RCy7gJ08/3-Masking-Up-Blocking-Off-Process-(Front-Brake-Calipers)-2.jpg Overall, I'm very pleased with how this preparation process has turned out. Taking the time to properly mask and protect every critical surface should make the blasting process far more straightforward while preventing unnecessary cleanup or damage afterward. The front calipers are now ready to be stripped back to bare metal in preparation for their new protective finish.

REAR BRAKE CALIPER SANDBLASTING PROCESS Continuing on from where I left off in July's blog update, I had just finished masking off a couple of areas on each rear brake caliper that I wanted to protect from the sandblasting process. However, before I could begin blasting, I decided it was worth protecting a few additional areas. These included all of the threaded bolt holes, along with the entire mating surface between the two halves of each rear brake caliper. To protect the threaded holes, I purchased a selection of M10x1.25 metric bolts and threaded them into place. Not only will they prevent the threads from being damaged during blasting, but they'll also provide convenient mounting points for hanging the calipers during the painting process. (Above) There are three threaded holes that I decided to protect before sandblasting: one for the rear brake hardline fitting and two for the mounting bracket that secures the rear brake hose. Next, I wanted to protect the ends of the four bolt holes used by the main bolts that clamp the two caliper halves together. My goal here was to prevent those recessed areas from being stripped back to bare metal, reducing the chance of future corrosion if paint coverage wasn't perfect. It may be a little overkill, but I'd rather take the extra precaution now than regret it later. https://i.postimg.cc/dV16zrgB/1-Additional-Blocking-Off-Masking-2.jpg (Above) Each of the four recessed bolt holes was plugged with a small piece of foam cut from a cheap car wash sponge. The final jobs before blasting were to improve the sealing around the piston bores and redo the masking on the caliper mating surfaces. I applied fresh masking tape over each mating surface, then used a small hammer to gently tap around the edges. This cleanly cut the tape along the machined surface, leaving a crisp, accurate masking line. I also reinstalled the original rubber piston dust boots around the edges of each piston bore to provide an extra layer of protection and prevent any abrasive media from accidentally reaching the bore surfaces. https://i.postimg.cc/jjnXjKxK/1-Additional-Blocking-Off-Masking-3.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/q76L70Jr/1-Additional-Blocking-Off-Masking-4.jpg (Above) I know some of these extra masking steps are probably unnecessary for a simple sandblasting job, but since this is my first time tackling a project like this, I figured it was better to be overly cautious than risk damaging a component that's difficult to replace. After repeating the process on the remaining rear brake caliper halves, I could finally say they were all ready for blasting. https://i.postimg.cc/25Lw5mkr/2-Additional-Blocking-Off-Masking-completed-1.jpg[/img] https://i.postimg.cc/GpTQprLk/3-Before-Sandblasting-1-(Rear-Brake-Calipers).jpg Masking job completed and ready for blasting! Finally, it was time to start blasting. I used 30/60 grit garnet blasting media at 90 PSI to remove the original black factory coating and return the calipers to bare metal. https://i.postimg.cc/HxGtcKnR/4-Before-Sandblasting-5-(Rear-Brake-Calipers).jpg I was hoping this would be a quick and straightforward process, and it would also serve as a good test of my new blasting setup. Here are the results after blasting the first rear brake caliper halves. I'm extremely happy with how it turned out. As you can see, the factory black coating has been completely removed, leaving a clean, uniform bare metal finish across the entire casting. https://i.postimg.cc/V6jWjR0K/5-After-Sandblasting-1-(Rear-Brake-Calipers).jpg https://i.postimg.cc/V6jWjR0T/5-After-Sandblasting-2-(Rear-Brake-Calipers).jpg https://i.postimg.cc/XJwkw8yS/5-After-Sandblasting-3-(Rear-Brake-Calipers).jpg https://i.postimg.cc/rmSNSJtq/5-After-Sandblasting-4-(Rear-Brake-Calipers).jpg Sandblasting was a huge improvement over my previous wire-wheel stripping method. It made reaching all of the tight corners and intricate casting details almost effortless, producing a much more consistent finish with far less physical effort. Although I was very pleased with the results, one major downside quickly became apparent—it took almost an hour to complete just a single set caliper of halves. The biggest limitation was my air compressor. With only a 60-litre tank, I could blast continuously for around five minutes before the compressor had to run and recharge the tank. That meant I was spending roughly as much time waiting for air pressure to recover as I was actually blasting. The final result was exactly what I was aiming for, but the process took considerably longer than expected. For now, it's simply a limitation of my current blasting setup that I'll have to work around. Moisture in the air lines also proved to be an issue. Even with a water separator installed, small amounts of water were still making their way into the blast gun, causing several blockages throughout the job. It's clear I still have a lot to learn about getting the most out of this sandblasting setup. Despite those challenges, this stage of the project is now complete. With the calipers stripped back to bare metal, I'm hoping to move on to painting them within the next few weeks—or perhaps within the next month if everything goes according to plan.

Although I had been fairly consistent with my monthly progress updates up until July 2025, I unfortunately wasn't able to make any progress on the build during August. This was mainly due to spending quality time with my wife and kids on a two-week family cruise through the South Pacific, visiting New Caledonia and Vanuatu. After returning from the holiday, I was able to get back into the project and continue work on both the front and rear brake calipers. This included stripping down the rear calipers and carrying out additional masking and preparation work on the front calipers. I also managed to track down and purchase a crucial replacement part for the Z, which I’m hopeful will resolve one of the major driving issues the car is currently experiencing. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/adamzx_z32

REAR BRAKE CALIPER PREP BEFORE SANDBLASTING Before starting the sandblasting process on the rear brake caliper bodies, I needed to properly mask and protect a few critical areas. In particular, the hydraulic piston bores and the internal brake fluid channels or ports must be shielded from blasting media to avoid damage. https://i.postimg.cc/DzfJwt5z/1-Before-Masking-2.jpg (Above) The pair of calipers prior to masking. My approach was straightforward. I used masking tape to seal off the two fluid channels that allow brake fluid to pass between each half of the caliper. For the hydraulic piston bores, I inserted a dense foam material to fully block off the openings and prevent any abrasive media from contacting the internal aluminum surfaces. https://i.postimg.cc/VNsrk34d/2-Tools-Required.jpg (Above) The tools and materials used to seal and protect the caliper components during preparation. After about an hour of work, all the necessary areas were sealed and protected. The foam inserts worked particularly well for the piston bores, creating a snug barrier. For the fluid ports, I used a simple but effective technique—lightly tapping around the edges with a hammer—to cut perfectly shaped circles out of masking tape for a precise fit. https://i.postimg.cc/hG4ztHMt/3-After-Marking-Up.jpg (Above) Fully masked and ready for sandblasting. That’s as far as I got for the month of July. Progress may have been limited, but it’s a solid step forward. The next stage will be to begin sandblasting the calipers, which I’m aiming to tackle soon.

Small progress this month: I prepped the two dismantled rear brake calipers for the next stage in the restoration process, masking and protecting key areas before I will then be sandblasting them back to bare metal in the next month. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/adamzx_z32

PARTS ACQUIRED FOR THE MONTH OF JUNE 2025 Another month, another new parts acquisition for the project—and this one was a surprisingly great find from Yahoo Auctions in Japan. Not only was it inexpensive, but it also arrived in excellent, almost like-new condition. That’s a huge improvement compared to a similar unit I purchased two months ago, which was heavily covered in rust. Because of its condition, this part won’t require the extensive restoration work that the previous one would have needed. That saves a significant amount of time and allows me to fast-track its installation of this new part into the Z sooner rather than later. It has been a 6 week wait for this package to arrive to me from Japan. I choose to use sea freight for this purchase to save on shipping costs and so it took a while for the package to arrive to me in Australia. Another Later Model Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) Pump/Module As you all know 2 months ago, I decided to buy and received my first series 2 or later model ABS pump/module from Japan which was relatively cheap but had the massive con of also being in a very rusty poor condition and would require an extensive restoration process on the entire assembly before I could install the unit into the car. https://i.postimg.cc/0NYmk3Z8/First_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_Purchased_In_April_2025.jpg (Above) Although I was excited to purchase this later-model ABS pump, it turned out to be in very poor condition. It will require a significant amount of work—disassembly, rust removal, and reassembly—before it can be made fully functional and installed in the boot of the Z. But while randomly searching yahoo auctions this month though, I managed to find a listing for a much better conditioned later model ABS pump that believe it or not was cheaper to buy then the first abs pump and only had a small amount of surface rust present on the unit. https://i.postimg.cc/h46909Xb/Yahoo-Auctions-ABS-Pump-Listing.png (Above) A Deal to hard to pass at when I first saw it. Because of its rust-free condition and lower price, I decided to purchase the new unit and have it shipped over. I’ll now be changing plans to use this ABS pump instead of the one I bought two months ago. Not all is lost, though—the original pump came with a complete set of factory brake hardlines, which I’ll transfer over to the new unit. This will allow me to complete the installation just as it would have been from the factory. https://i.postimg.cc/NFyxbD86/2_New_later_Model_ABS_Pump_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/7hCNX91M/2_New_later_Model_ABS_Pump_2.jpg Upon first inspection of the new ABS pump the condition of the components was very good, there was minimal surface rust present on the unit which I may or may not try to remove before installing the pump into the boot of my Z. When comparing the new ABS pump with the first one the difference in condition is very noticeable. The first pump I plan to keep as a spare and if necessary do a full restoration on at some point just in case I ever need to change the pump out due to a fault or failure. https://i.postimg.cc/zvLkp7wk/3_Comparison_of_the_first_ABS_pump_vs_new_ABS_pump_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/6q7hzcVH/3_Comparison_of_the_first_ABS_pump_vs_new_ABS_pump_2.jpg The difference in condition is night and day and in my mind a decent purchase sourcing this new ABS pump. Even with the new ABS pump in hand, I will have to hold off installing it into the Z until I have completed my research into if retrofitting the later model ABS pump is even possible into an early model 300ZX which at this point in time I don't have any concrete information proving my theory on it being possible is correct. As far as I can tell looking through the AUS, US and UKDM Z32 forums, no one has ever tried to do this kind of conversion before ever and there are no personal hands on experiences i can read about that can verify if it is or isn't possible, so I will just have to confirm the possibility myself on my own Z at some point in the future.

MOUNTING BRACKET (REAR BRAKE CALIPER) – SANDBLASTING PROCESS With all of the brake caliper hydraulic pistons now restored to a usable condition, I turned my attention to the caliper bodies themselves. The next step in the restoration process is to strip the factory coating and repaint the calipers in a high-temperature gloss black finish. From my research, achieving a durable and high-quality paint finish starts with proper surface preparation. Ideally, paint should be applied directly to bare metal wherever possible. When done correctly, the process involves applying an etch primer to the bare surface, followed by the colour coat, and finally a clear coat for added durability and protection. Because I plan to use an etch primer—which is specifically designed for bare metal as I've mentioned before—I need to remove as much of the original factory coating from the OEM calipers as much as possible. Up to this point, I’ve had good success using traditional grinding and metal resurfacing techniques to strip coatings from various parts. My initial plan was to use the same method on all four brake calipers. During testing, the bench grinder removed the factory coating effectively, but I noticed it was also altering the surface of the aluminium. I suspect this is due to heat buildup caused by friction from the wire wheel. (Above) The stripped metal surface appears to show heavy pitting, likely caused by heat buildup during grinding. Another issue was accessibility—getting the grinder into tight areas proved difficult. Progress was slow, with even a small section taking around 30 minutes to complete. At this stage, I decided the bench grinder was no longer the best tool for the job. While it could achieve the desired result, it required too much time and effort. It also produced a lot of debris, unpleasant odours, and airborne particles that ended up on my clothes and skin. For years, I’ve been researching alternative methods for stripping automotive parts more efficiently, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity to upgrade my setup. So I purchased a Unimac 90L benchtop sandblasting cabinet—the most affordable and compact option available to me. I’ve wanted one of these for quite some time, and after watching countless reviews and demonstration videos online, it became clear how effective sandblasting is for quickly stripping metal parts. The main reasons I held off previously were the cost and limited storage space. However, after reorganising my workspace and weighing the long-term benefits, I decided it was a worthwhile investment. This cabinet should significantly improve my workflow—not just for this project, but for future restorations as well. The ability to strip parts down to bare metal in minutes rather than hours is a huge advantage. https://i.postimg.cc/7hXKQhjw/1_New_Sandblaster_setup.jpg (Above) The cabinet is connected to a 2.0HP high-flow 60L air compressor and a 1000W dust extractor. I also installed a water trap and air regulator to control pressure and reduce moisture in the air lines. https://i.postimg.cc/qqQ1ZqWM/1_Sandblaster_Work_Area.jpg (Above) I also chose a coarse 30/60 grit garnet blasting media, which is affordable and easy to source locally. I set the air regulator to the recommended 90 PSI (0.65 MPa). https://i.postimg.cc/KjQ0sjCc/1_Setting_Max_air_pressure_on_regulator.jpg (Above) Moisture control is critical in sandblasting, as water in the air lines can clog the system. The regulator with a built-in water trap helps minimise this risk. Before moving on to the calipers, I decided to test the setup on a smaller component—a pair of rear caliper mounting brackets. Here’s the condition of the brackets before blasting: https://i.postimg.cc/mkVm6kKF/2_Brackets_Before_Blasting.jpg (Above) While most of the factory paint coating had been removed, tight areas still retained some of the old paint—exactly where sandblasting should excel. With everything set, I placed the brackets in the cabinet and began blasting. The results were exactly what I hoped for—fast and effortless. The remaining paint was removed in seconds, and both brackets were fully stripped within minutes. https://i.postimg.cc/ZnjwDnXC/2_Bracket_After_Blasting_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/wMFwbMnt/2_Bracket_After_Blasting_2.jpg (Above) Both brackets are now completely stripped back to bare metal, with all of the factory coating removed. This first test confirmed that investing in a sandblasting cabinet was the right decision. The time savings and improved results are immediately noticeable, and I’m looking forward to using this setup to restore all four brake calipers next.

Another small update for this month’s blog, but progress was made nonetheless. I picked up a new piece of equipment that will help me strip paint and rust from old car metal parts much more efficiently—and much faster. In addition, I acquired another component for the braking system. This one is in significantly better condition than the part I purchased a couple of months ago, so it’s a solid upgrade. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

HYDRAULIC BRAKE PISTON RESTORATION PROCESS The next phase of the brake caliper restoration process involves inspecting and restoring the hydraulic brake pistons that were removed from both the front and rear brake calipers. The goal here is to put the pistons through one final cleaning process and then assess their restored condition to determine whether they can be reused or be replaced with brand new hydraulic pistons. https://i.postimg.cc/Mph2qvG8/1_All_Brake_Hydraulic_Pistons_2_(Before_Polishing).jpg (Above) The current condition of all the hydraulic pistons after undergoing a deep cleaning and de-rusting cycle in the ultrasonic cleaning machine. Before beginning the restoration work, I took a closer look at several areas of the pistons that still required additional cleaning. https://i.postimg.cc/P5BsTPqs/2_close_Up_Of_existing_rust_inside_pistons.jpg (Above) Rust deposits still remaining inside the inner barrel of the hydraulic pistons. (Below) Some staining or contamination present on the outer surface of the pistons. https://i.postimg.cc/9Qv5Crfh/2_Staining_or_marking_on_outer_surfaces_of_both_front_and_rear_pistons.jpg Grinding Process To tackle the remaining rust deposits first, I attached a small brass wire brush bit to my Dremel and carefully began grinding away the corrosion. This method proved to be very effective at removing the rust while leaving the underlying metal clean and shiny. https://i.postimg.cc/NjWqB50F/3_After_wire_wheeling_inner_barrels_of_all_brake_pistons_1.jpg (Above) Nearly all of the rust deposits have now been removed from the inner barrel surfaces, revealing clean metal underneath. https://i.postimg.cc/Mph2qvG7/3_After_wire_wheeling_inner_barrels_of_Front_brake_pistons_1.jpg (Above) The front brake caliper pistons came out looking great, with all rust removed. Only a couple of pistons still show minor pitting at the bottom of the inner barrel. (Below) The rear caliper pistons actually turned out even better than the fronts after the grinding process. https://i.postimg.cc/fbm4LD3V/3_After_wire_wheeling_inner_barrels_of_Rear_brake_pistons_1.jpg I’m very happy with how well the wire brushing process worked. The pistons have cleaned up so nicely that I’m now unsure whether I should paint the inner barrels or simply leave them as they are. What do you guys think — should I paint them or leave them bare? Polishing Process Next, I moved on to removing the staining or contamination that remained on the outer surfaces of the pistons. To do this, I set up my electric drill in a bench vice and attached a cone-shaped polishing wheel. This created a simple DIY polishing rig that made the process much easier to control. https://i.postimg.cc/wBLKvgtt/4_Polishing_Setup.jpg (Above) With this setup I can safely hold the piston while polishing, without having to manage both the drill and the part at the same time. This gives me much better control and allows me to polish the piston surfaces more effectively. Here’s the starting condition before polishing the first piston. https://i.postimg.cc/bvkXJpGg/4_Test_of_polishing_process_on_outer_surface_of_Brake_Piston_(Before).jpg (Above) It’s a little difficult to see in the photo, but there is a thin ring of staining along the upper section of the piston’s outer barrel. The goal is to remove as much of this contamination as possible using the polishing process. After about five minutes of polishing, the results were impressive. All of the staining on the outer barrel of the first piston was completely removed. https://i.postimg.cc/SKC0skXM/4_Test_of_polishing_process_on_outer_surface_of_Brake_Piston_(After_1).jpg https://i.postimg.cc/zfKmB8Lw/4_Test_of_polishing_process_on_outer_surface_of_Brake_Piston_(After_2).jpg (Above) As you can see, the contamination that was present on the piston surface has now been completely removed. All that remained was to repeat the process on the rest of the pistons. Just like the first one, the results were excellent. The polishing process removed all visible contamination from the outer surfaces, making the pistons look almost brand new again. https://i.postimg.cc/q7yfR4t1/5_All_Pistons_Polished.jpg (Above) The polishing process was quick, simple, and extremely effective. I’m very happy with the results so far. After successfully removing the rust deposits from the inner barrels of all the pistons and eliminating the contamination on the outer barrel surfaces, I am satisfied that these restored brake caliper hydraulic pistons are suitable for reuse. They can now be reinstalled into the front and rear brake calipers during the final stages of the restoration process.

This month I wasn’t able to dedicate as much time to the project as I had hoped, but I still managed to make some progress. The focus was on cleaning up and polishing the hydraulic pistons in both the front and rear brake calipers. These components still had varying amounts of residue and rust buildup left over from the earlier cleaning and de-rusting process, so this stage involved carefully removing the remaining contamination and improving their overall finish. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

PARTS ACQUIRED DURING THE MONTH OF APRIL This month I took delivery of two new brake-related parts from Japan. The first was a set of later-model iron Twin Turbo front brake calipers, which I’ve already covered in detail above. The second item, however, is the one I’m most excited about. It has the potential to significantly reduce future servicing time—particularly when bleeding the braking system—provided I can successfully retrofit it to my car. Based on the research I’ve pieced together so far, it should be possible in theory. (Above) The package from Japan containing both brake components. As always, Jesse Streeter and his team did an excellent job ensuring everything arrived safely and undamaged. https://i.postimg.cc/fbNJmRLC/2_Parts_Inside_Box_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/YSHhYC9x/2_Parts_Inside_Box_2.jpg (Above) The contents of the package: a set of later-model iron TT brake calipers and a 1994+ ABS pump/actuator assembly. If you haven’t already spotted it in the photos, the “mystery” item is a later-model 1994+ ABS pump/actuator. I purchased it as a complete unit, including all factory brake hardlines connecting the pump to the hydraulic system. Having the original hardlines intact is a huge advantage—it means I should be able to unbolt my original ABS pump and swap this unit in without needing to fabricate or modify any brake lines. https://i.postimg.cc/DzT8LwZP/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/rpkKxwmn/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_2.jpg (Above) The later-model ABS pump complete with 2+2 base plate and all original hardlines. These lines feed into the hydraulic distribution box, which connects the pump to the rest of the braking system. The factory part number stamped on the identification plate is 47600-50P00, along with a serial number and the manufacturer’s name, Nippon ABS, LTD. https://i.postimg.cc/wBQ3VYyb/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_4.jpg (Above) According to Nissan FAST, part number 47600-50P00 was fitted to both NA and TT Z32 models from September 1993 through to October 1998. As exciting as this purchase is, there’s one obvious issue: surface rust. The unit appears to have been exposed to the elements for some time, and corrosion has formed on several external components. That said, I’ve dealt with similar surface rust before and had good success restoring parts to a respectable condition. The main challenge will be figuring out how best to submerge the assembly in Evapo-Rust (or treat it in stages) to remove the corrosion thoroughly. After that, I’ll need to apply a suitable protective coating to prevent future rust from returning. https://i.postimg.cc/bv9dTfDV/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_5.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/HL9j21cQ/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_3.jpg (Above) While the rust looks significant at first glance, it appears to be surface-level only. https://i.postimg.cc/vmtDzwxM/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_7.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/BvBtgfLy/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_6.jpg (Above) A close-up of the five brake hardlines that connect the pump to the car’s main hydraulic distribution box (located beneath the rear center section of the boot). After careful inspection, I found no kinks or damage to any of the lines, which is reassuring. Next, I inspected the electrical side of the unit, including the main wiring harness and the internal relay box mounted on the rear of the pump. Fortunately, there were no signs of corrosion in any of the connectors, and the internal relay box looks to be in near-new condition. https://i.postimg.cc/85kcXXLF/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_8.jpg (Above) Research suggests that the three main electrical connectors are identical in location and orientation to those on early-model ABS pumps. https://i.postimg.cc/G23tggvv/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_9.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/26jy99nh/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_10.jpg (Above) Inspecting the internal relay box located at the rear of the pump. I know some people may question the decision to modify the braking system in this way. Before the ongoing brake-bleeding issues began, I likely wouldn’t have considered it either. However, with no clear resolution to the bleeding problem so far, replacing the ABS pump could potentially eliminate a hidden internal fault. And if I’m going to replace it anyway, it makes sense to consider upgrading to the later-model unit. The biggest unknowns remain: • Can the later-model ABS pump be successfully retrofitted into an early Z32? • If installed, will it function correctly? As far as I can tell, this hasn’t been attempted before—so I may be the first to try this modification on a 300ZX Z32. My approach is simple: if it works, fantastic. If it doesn’t, I can revert to the original pump and share the results with the community so others know whether this path is viable. At this point, based on the information I’ve gathered, the potential benefits outweigh the risks. Worst-case scenario, I return to stock. Best-case scenario, I resolve the brake bleeding saga and gain a worthwhile upgrade in the process.

POLISHING ONE OF MY OEM ALLOY WHEELS Taking a short break from all of the recent brake system work, I decided to turn my attention to something a little more cosmetic — my set of bare aluminum OEM wheels. After sitting for the past four years, they were starting to look tired and dull, and it was clear they were long overdue for a proper polish to bring them back to life. Upon closer inspection, I noticed a layer of oxidation had formed on the bare aluminum since the last time I polished this particular wheel. I was hopeful that a thorough polishing would remove it, but there was only one way to find out. [i](Above) Back in 2007, I purchased a full set of OEM JDM factory wheels from another Z owner who had already stripped and polished the bare aluminum before selling them to me. Around that time, I learned that the USDM models were offered with factory chrome OEM wheels — a look I instantly fell in love with. Unfortunately, here in Australia, none of the OEM wheels available came in that factory chrome finish. So when a polished set came up for sale, I didn’t hesitate — it was the closest I could get to that chrome look, and I jumped on the opportunity.[/i] (Below) A close-up of the oxidation that had formed on the surface of the bare aluminum over time. https://i.postimg.cc/mkxrB7PN/1_Before_Polishing_2.jpg After about an hour of polishing using an electric drill, a buffing cone, and some purple metal polish, the results were immediately noticeable. The dull, hazy finish was gone, replaced by a reflective, mirror-like shine that closely resembles chrome. I couldn’t have been happier with how the wheel turned out. Ultimately, I’d love to have all of my OEM alloy wheels finished in a true mirror-like chrome one day. For now, though, the polished aluminum gives me a close enough look to achieve the style I’m going for — and I’m more than happy with it. It was also a refreshing change of pace from the brake system work I’ve been focused on for the past few months — sometimes it’s nice to see quick, visual progress. https://i.postimg.cc/wMKBgD15/2_After_Polishing.jpg (Above) Although the bare aluminum now has a nice reflective, mirror-like shine, the oxidation hasn’t been completely removed. Even after several passes with the polish, I wasn’t able to eliminate any more of the remaining surface oxidation. Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough time to polish the remaining three OEM wheels, but I’m planning to tackle those soon — ideally before reinstalling the refurbished brake calipers on the car. There’s something incredibly satisfying about bringing old aluminum back to life, and this first wheel is a great reminder of why I’ve always loved the look of polished OEM wheels on this Z.

DISASSEMBLY PROCESS OF MY NEW SPARE SET OF LATER MODEL TWIN TURBO OEM IRON BRAKE CALIPERS With the teardown of my used rear OEM brake calipers now complete, I’m starting this month’s update with the newly acquired set of later-model twin turbo iron front brake calipers that arrived earlier this month for the rebuild project. The goal for this set is simple: once restored, they will replace the later-model TT front calipers currently on the car — the same ones I installed back in 2011. These “new” used calipers will go through the exact same teardown and restoration process as the rears featured in last month’s update. Finding the Twin Turbo Front Brake Calipers on Yahoo Auctions I came across these calipers listed on Yahoo Auctions, advertised as having been used on a Skyline R32. The seller wasn’t completely certain of their origin, but from the photos I immediately recognized them as the later-model 300ZX Twin Turbo front calipers (Series 4–6, 1995–2000). https://i.postimg.cc/L8VH8MJC/1_TT_brake_calipers_yahoo_auctions_2.jpg Cosmetically, they were in average-to-poor condition, with significant surface rust and grime. However, the important thing was that they were complete. The key difference between these later-model calipers and the earlier versions is the material. The later units are made from iron rather than aluminum. While heavier, the iron construction offers improved resistance to heat-induced warping under hard braking — particularly beneficial during track use. This is why Nissan upgraded to iron calipers in the later production models. https://i.postimg.cc/YCxpCwvQ/1_final_model_brochure_photos_of_brakes_(1999_2000).jpg Once they arrived here in Australia, I was eager to begin the restoration process. Despite their condition, I was confident they could be rebuilt to a standard better than new. https://i.postimg.cc/Dzjn1ddv/1_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_Before_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/W4WT066z/1_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_Before_2.jpg Step 1: Hydraulic Piston Removal As soon as the calipers arrived, I began by removing all hydraulic pistons using compressed air and old brake pads as spacers to prevent damage during extraction. https://i.postimg.cc/gjRpF99h/2_Piston_Removal_Process_3.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/gc6m6hwY/2_Piston_Removed_1.jpg The process went smoothly, and I was able to remove all eight pistons without major issues. Step 2: Separating the Caliper Halves Next, I applied penetrating lubricant to the four main fasteners on each caliper to help loosen the rusted bolts. After allowing it to soak briefly, I carefully removed all eight fasteners. Fortunately, none of them snapped — always a small victory when working with older hardware. https://i.postimg.cc/CLG0cVHX/3_Caliper_Bolts_Removal_Process_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/1R61zZTn/3_Caliper_Bolts_Removal_Process_6.jpg With the bolts removed, I separated the caliper halves and extracted the internal O-ring seals from each piston bore. https://i.postimg.cc/t4BLcR1z/4_O_ring_Removal.jpg At this stage, the calipers were fully dismantled. Years of grime, corrosion, and brake dust buildup were clearly visible. There’s no denying — they need serious attention — but this is exactly why I wanted to rebuild them properly. https://i.postimg.cc/SxSBVYKG/5_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_After_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/q7YWkmx2/5_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_After_2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/xCzhqK6v/5_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_After_3.jpg Step 3: Cleaning Process Before moving any further, every component went into the ultrasonic cleaner. Each part was placed in containers and run through a full cleaning cycle. The results were impressive. Years of accumulated dirt and grease were removed, revealing clean metal surfaces underneath. It’s always satisfying seeing neglected parts come back to life. https://i.postimg.cc/L6Rw6gLT/6_Cleaning_Process_1.jpg During inspection, I discovered a small hole in one of the original piston dust boots. This would have allowed moisture and debris into the bore — potentially leading to corrosion or piston seizure. Finding that damage alone justified the decision to completely dismantle these calipers. https://i.postimg.cc/JzzFjwT5/6_Cleaning_Process_2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/5yWGz6Gz/6_Before_Derusting_Process.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/DwpMgCHK/6_hole_in_piston_dust_boot.jpg Step 4: De-Rusting Process With the grime removed, it was time to address the rust. All affected metal components were submerged in my go-to rust removal solution and run through a heated 20-minute ultrasonic cycle. https://i.postimg.cc/NjCz4NSf/7_After_Derusting_Process_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/R03bb7xN/7_After_Derusting_Process_2.jpg The results were outstanding. The surface rust was effectively eliminated, and the transformation was dramatic. It’s incredible how much renewal proper rust treatment can provide. https://i.postimg.cc/yNwrqD7c/7_After_Derusting_Process_3.jpg Most of the corrosion on the hydraulic pistons was also removed. I’m still undecided whether to coat the internal surfaces of the pistons in a flat black finish or leave them natural — I’ll make that call during reassembly. Conclusion That concludes the teardown of this later-model twin turbo iron front caliper set. I’m extremely pleased with how smoothly the process went, and I’ve gained an even deeper understanding of the internal workings of these calipers. Next up will be surface preparation of the caliper bodies. The old factory coating will need to be completely stripped back to bare metal before applying a fresh finish. That means it’s time to bring out the bench grinder and start prepping for paint. Stay tuned for the next stage of the restoration.

Another productive month in the garage, with another successful brake caliper teardown completed—this time tackling a set of later-model iron Twin Turbo front calipers. Alongside that, I began polishing one of my bare aluminum OEM wheels, aiming for a full mirror finish. To top it all off, I also received a package from Japan containing the latest parts for the rebuild project, adding even more momentum to the build. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

COMPLETION OF THE DISASSEMBLY PROCESS - SPARE SET OF OEM REAR BRAKE CALIPERS Continuing on from where I left off in last month’s blog updates, this month’s progress focuses on completing the cleaning and de-rusting stages for my spare set of OEM rear brake calipers. Once this stage was finished, the calipers were finally ready to move on to the next phase of the restoration process—stripping the original factory protective coating from the outer surfaces and returning everything back to bare metal. This will ultimately provide the best possible foundation for a durable, high-temperature, high-gloss paint finish later on. Step 4: De-Rusting Process of Both Rear Brake Calipers The deep-cleaning cycles that both rear brake calipers went through in last month’s update successfully removed the majority of the built-up dirt and grime that had accumulated across all components, including the caliper bodies themselves. However, there was still a noticeable amount of surface rust present on several parts that needed to be addressed before any new coating could be applied. To tackle this, I submerged all of the affected brake caliper components into a container filled with EvapoRust solution, placed the container into my ultrasonic cleaning machine, and ran a 20-minute cycle at 60°C. Once the cycle was complete, the container was removed from the ultrasonic cleaner and all components were taken out of the EvapoRust solution. Each piece was then thoroughly dried by hand, followed by a quick powered blow-dry using my BigBoi handheld electric blower to ensure no excess residue remained on any of the calipers or hardware. The body assemblies of each half of both rear brake calipers came out looking significantly better than before. Most of the ugly orange caliper paint was now completely gone, and overall the calipers are now starting to resemble their original factory condition—albeit with a slightly faded appearance. https://i.postimg.cc/65r0c3gw/Separated_Rear_Brake_Calipers_Current_Condition_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/2SCxKYNR/Separated_Rear_Brake_Calipers_Current_Condition_2.jpg Next up were the hydraulic pistons, which were heavily rusted on the internal surfaces of all four units. Once again, the EvapoRust solution worked wonders and brought these parts back to life. I’ll still be going over each piston with a polishing wheel to remove the remaining scuff marks present on the external surfaces. https://i.postimg.cc/Prsy1Z6Y/Caliper_Pistons_Current_Condition_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/m2YwjDqw/Caliper_Pistons_Current_Condition_2.jpg A quick wire-wheel test was also carried out on the internal section of one of the hydraulic pistons to remove any remaining buildup. The result was even better than expected and confirms that a light polish will have these looking near new again. Polished: (LH) Vs Not Polished (RH) https://i.postimg.cc/rFXj5WhS/Caliper_Piston_Cleaning_Up_Comparison.jpg Nearly all of the brake caliper hardware and fasteners came out of the de-rusting cycle completely free of surface rust and corrosion. However, the factory zinc coating was also stripped during the process, so I’ll be looking to replace as many of these fasteners as possible as part of the restoration. More on that later. https://i.postimg.cc/8PQ4LWyL/Caliper_Fasteners_Set_Current_Condition.jpg The two rear mounting brackets for each rear brake caliper also saw the complete removal of all surface rust that had formed on the exposed metal surfaces, as well as beneath the factory single-stage paint coating. A full strip-down and repaint will definitely be required before these brackets can be reattached to the restored brake calipers. https://i.postimg.cc/jdHXc5m0/Rear_Caliper_Brackets_Current_Condition_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Yq63R9ZB/Rear_Caliper_Brackets_Current_Condition_2.jpg Last but not least was the results of the cleaning process for all of the rubber seals and O-rings. Surprisingly, these came out of the cleaning cycle looking almost like brand-new parts. That being said, I’ll still be replacing everything with a complete set of brand-new seals and O-rings during reassembly phase to ensure long-term reliability. https://i.postimg.cc/FsyZpRqC/Old_Caliper_Orings_Seals_Set.jpg Unfortunately, that concludes the extent of the work I was able to complete on this project for the month. While I’m extremely happy with the results of the cleaning and de-rusting processes, there’s still plenty of work ahead before these rear brake calipers are fully restored and ready to go back on the car.

After last month’s ground-breaking milestone, tearing down my first set of OEM front and rear brake calipers, I’ve now moved onto the next phase of the project. This month’s update focuses on completing the remaining strip-down process of the newly dismantled OEM rear calipers, tackling several stubborn components that needed every trace of surface rust removed before any paint or protective coating could be applied. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

DISASSEMBLY PROCESS OF MY SPARE SET OF OEM REAR BRAKE CALIPERS After successfully tearing down my original pair of 1989 non-turbo front OEM brake calipers, I decided the best way to build on that experience was to dismantle a spare set of OEM aluminum rear brake calipers from a 300ZX. In theory, the rear calipers should require much the same disassembly process as the fronts, with the main difference being that each rear caliper only contains two hydraulic pistons rather than four. One other notable difference, however, is the overall condition of these rear calipers. Unlike the fronts, these are in fairly poor shape, with heavy grime buildup and a significant amount of rusted hardware that I expected would make the teardown more challenging. Despite this, I was confident I could fully disassemble them and further expand my mechanical knowledge in the process. https://i.postimg.cc/kMSKz9Hm/1_Before_Dismantling_(Rear_Brake_Calipers)_Rear.jpg Step 1: Tearing Down the Left-Hand Rear Brake Caliper As with the front calipers, the first step was to remove the hydraulic pistons. I planned to use compressed air to force the pistons out of their bores, just as I had done previously. This is where I hit my first major roadblock. Both rear OEM brake hose fittings were completely seized in the back of the caliper. Despite using a correctly sized 10 mm flare nut wrench, neither fitting would budge. Things quickly got worse when the hex portion of the fitting began to deform under the wrench due to rust and soft metal. Not wanting to risk further damage, I stopped and reconsidered my approach. I remembered seeing my Dad successfully free stubborn bolts using penetrating lubricant, so I applied a generous amount of WD-40 to the fittings and surrounding threads and allowed it time to soak in. https://i.postimg.cc/L4PLwRbG/2_First_Roadblock_Frozen_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Caliper_End_(Close_Up).jpg https://i.postimg.cc/vHdfdkRm/2_Second_Roadblock_Frozen_Brake_Hardline_Hose_End_(Close_Up).jpg Thankfully, this approach worked. Both brake hose fittings eventually broke free, allowing me to continue with the teardown. https://i.postimg.cc/BZFHkszj/2_Removed_Brake_Hardline_Hose.jpg Unfortunately, the fittings sustained noticeable damage during removal. While I originally hoped to refurbish the hardlines as part of a future restoration, replacing them outright will be far easier and safer. https://i.postimg.cc/8kvM9DYP/2_Rear_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Damaged_After_Removal_(Wide).jpg https://i.postimg.cc/SQ9C3qvw/2_Rear_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Damaged_After_Removal_(Close_Up).jpg With the hoses removed, I used compressed air to push both pistons outward as far as possible while the used brake pads were still installed. At this point, another issue surfaced: two brake pad slide pins were seized in the caliper body. After applying WD-40, I was able to remove one pin, but the second pin refused to move. Even using a hammer to drive it out proved ineffective. After exhausting all options I could think of, I decided to leave it for now and seek advice from my Dad before risking damage to the aluminum caliper body. Fortunately, the stuck slide pin did not prevent me from continuing. I removed the four caliper mounting bolts and separated the two caliper halves without issue. https://i.postimg.cc/DyKLKHVB/3_Dismantling_Process_Separating_LH_Rear_Brake_Calipers_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Yqfg2Rkz/3_Separated_Rear_Brake_Caliper_LH_Current_Condition_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/8PBWk4Dy/3_Separated_Rear_Brake_Caliper_LH_Current_Condition_2.jpg I then removed the old brake pads. https://i.postimg.cc/kXdKdzrK/3_Dismantling_Process_Finally_Separated_LH_Brake_Caliper.jpg The final step for this caliper was removing the pistons completely, along with the dust boots and internal rubber O-ring seals seated inside each piston bore. Once everything was laid out on the bench, the amount of grime and contamination was obvious. A thorough cleaning would be required before any refurbishment could begin. https://i.postimg.cc/Qd87F7dD/4_Dismantling_Process_(LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Component_Layout.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/L6Bf4D2S/4_Close_Up_of_LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Seals_Pistons.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/qMXnBw0W/4_Close_Up_(LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Front_Half_Section.jpg Step 2: Tearing Down the Right-Hand Rear Brake Caliper After dealing with the challenges on the left-hand caliper, I was better prepared for the right-hand side. As expected, both brake pad slide pins on this caliper were seized solid. While frustrating, I was still able to work around the issue and complete the teardown. https://i.postimg.cc/CxcqkKRd/5_Dismantling_Process_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Component_Layout.jpg Just like the left-hand caliper, all components were heavily soiled and coated in grime. https://i.postimg.cc/x1fmXmTB/4_Close_Up_of_RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Seals_Pistons.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/fRzdVdRX/5_Close_Up_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Rear_Half_Section.jpg The front half of the caliper clearly shows the two rusted slide pins still stuck in place. https://i.postimg.cc/Mp6BnBpn/5_Close_Up_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Front_Half_Section.jpg Step 3: Cleaning Process for Both Rear Brake Calipers With both calipers fully disassembled, it was time to assess what could be reused or refurbished. All metal components were placed into my ultrasonic cleaner and soaked in an all-purpose cleaning solution for 20 minutes at 60 °C. The results were far better than expected. Most of the built-up grime and residue was completely removed. After thoroughly blow-drying each component to eliminate moisture, I sorted the parts into groups and stored them safely for the next phase. https://i.postimg.cc/XYsCdvrB/6_Set_of_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Components_After_Cleaning_Drying_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/8zZ6MC7r/6_Set_of_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Components_After_Cleaning_Drying_2.jpg The real work begins next. Both caliper bodies will be stripped back to bare aluminum before being repainted in a durable, high-gloss finish. More updates to follow.

DISASSEMBLY PROCESS OF MY ORIGINAL NON-TURBO FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS With the success and experience gained from disassembling my first braking component in last month’s blog update, I wanted to expand on that learning process and take a deeper look into how my front brake calipers work — inside and out. This time, I’ll be disassembling my original set of non-turbo aluminum front brake calipers that I removed from my car last month. My dad and I suspected that one or more of these NA (naturally aspirated) calipers might be faulty, potentially causing my car’s persistent spongy brake pedal feel. By completely tearing down both front NA calipers, I’ll be able to thoroughly inspect the internal components for any damage or wear. If a fault is found, that could explain the soft pedal issue. If not, I can eliminate the calipers from the list of possible causes. https://i.postimg.cc/W1tshKTV/1-Front-NA-Brake-Calipers-Before-Dismantling-Process-2.jpg Before diving in, I spent a lot of time researching how brake calipers work and the general disassembly process. Most guides and videos show that the typical teardown involves: 1. Removing all of the hydraulic pistons from the caliper body. 2. Unbolting the fasteners that hold the two caliper halves together. 3. Cleaning all components thoroughly before rebuilding or refinishing. Important Note – Factory Service Manual (FSM) Warning The Nissan 300ZX factory service manual (FSM) clearly states that the front and rear brake calipers “should not be separated.” This is likely due to safety reasons: the manual does not list a torque specification for the four bolts that hold the caliper halves together. At the factory, these bolts are likely torqued using a specialized machine to a specific range to ensure they don’t loosen over time — a critical safety measure that prevents caliper separation while driving. However, for the purposes of learning and future restoration projects, I’ll be disassembling them anyway. Breaking them down completely will allow for a thorough cleaning, inspection, and high-quality repainting — ensuring not only a great finish but also long-term corrosion protection. https://i.postimg.cc/SsLhBb7v/Brake-Caliper-Disassembly-Warning-FSM.png To safely reassemble the calipers later, I’ve researched several torque value references for the caliper body bolts. I’ll use those settings along with medium-strength (blue) Loctite on the bolt threads to prevent them from loosening over time. Step 1: Extracting All Brake Pistons The first step is removing the hydraulic pistons from each caliper. The 300ZX front calipers use a quad-piston design — two pistons in the outer half and two in the inner half. After removing the pistons, I’ll separate the caliper halves, remove the internal seals and bleeder valves, and complete the teardown. Most YouTube guides recommend using compressed air to push the pistons out. I’ll use the same method, with a soft obstruction (in my case, stacked used brake pads) placed between the pistons to prevent them from shooting out violently and to control the process safely. I mounted the caliper in a vice on its side for easier access, then inserted several used brake pads where they normally sit. These pads serve as a cushion and limit how far the pistons can extend. For the air supply, I used an old brake hardline which has a partially cut rubber OEM brake hose still crimped to it as the perfect adaptor tool for attaching my blow gun nozzle and feeding compressed air into the caliper’s brake hose port. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/nh5p7khs/2-Dismantling-Process-RH-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-1.jpg As I slowly applied air pressure, the first piston began to move outward until it contacted the brake pad stack. The remaining pistons followed, each pushing out evenly. [IMG]https://i.postimg.cc/fRFDXKR0/2-Dismantling-Process-RH-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-2.jpg [img]https://i.postimg.cc/0yr9b3Pb/2-Dismantling-Process-LH-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-1.jpg [img]https://i.postimg.cc/Z5g43c5w/3-Dismantling-Process-RH-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-3.jpg After removing one brake pad from the stack to increase the gap, I repeated the process several times. Gradually, the pistons extended further each time until they could be almost ready to come out safely pulled out by hand. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/wjPgJVjc/3-Dismantling-Process-Both-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-Progress.jpg At this point, I decided to just go ahead and split the caliper halves for easier access. I removed all the mounting bolts and bleeder valves, then separated the halves. https://i.postimg.cc/YSWkxWvT/4-Front-Brake-Calipers-Separated-Hardware.jpg Followed by the removal of all of the caliper brake pistons and rubber boot seals. https://i.postimg.cc/ZqdZLdWD/4-Front-Brake-Calipers-All-Pistons-Removed.jpg Step 2: Removing All Caliper O-Ring Seals With the pistons removed, I inspected the bores for any visible damage. They were dirty with residual brake fluid but showed no scoring or deep marks, which is a great sign that the calipers are likely in good condition. https://i.postimg.cc/d0yv9yh5/4-Dismantling-Process-Internal-Oring-Seal-Close-Up.jpg Next, I carefully removed all O-ring seals from the piston bores, along with the two smaller fluid channel O-rings that seal the passage between the caliper halves. https://i.postimg.cc/tgxyzxs2/4-Dismantling-Process-side-Oring-Seal-Close-Up.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/B650rfcj/5-Front-Brake-Calipers-All-Orings-Seals-Removed.jpg Upon a closer look, both calipers’ internal surfaces appeared smooth and undamaged — a reassuring result that means that these calipers were not the issue with my current brake bleeding problem. https://i.postimg.cc/MGQxYQcW/5-Front-Brake-Caliper-Close-UP-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/MTJw3pRq/5-Front-Brake-Caliper-Close-UP-2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/QtZDYd5B/5-Front-Brake-Caliper-Close-UP-3.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/xCVQp1HM/5-Front-Brake-Caliper-Close-UP-4.jpg Step 3: Cleaning and Final Inspection Before I could begin the final inspection of both calipers to properly confirm for signs of fault or wear, I first needed to give them a deep clean — inside and out. To do this, I placed all the caliper components into my ultrasonic cleaning machine to remove years of built-up brake dust, grime, and corrosion from every surface. https://i.postimg.cc/4dvgDRbp/7-Cleaning-Parts-In-Ultrasonic-Cleaner.jpg Once the cleaning cycle finished, I removed all the components and carefully dried each one by hand using my blow-drying tool. This ensured that all traces of water and cleaning solution were completely removed, leaving each caliper looking squeaky clean both internally and externally. https://i.postimg.cc/Fz94mCDB/7-Dismantling-Completed-Full-Set-of-Caliper-Components.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/FRb4MXgD/7-Dismantling-Completed-Full-Set-of-Caliper-Components-Close-Up-2.jpg With both calipers now fully cleaned, I moved on to the final inspection stage. My goal here was to check each caliper bore and piston seating area for any signs of scoring, pitting, or other surface damage that could affect brake performance. As I expected, all the bores looked perfectly smooth with no visible marks, scratches, or imperfections. This confirmed that both calipers are still in great condition and not the cause of the spongy brake pedal issue I’ve been chasing. While it’s a relief to rule out the front calipers as the problem, it also means that the root cause of my braking issue lies elsewhere in the system. That’ll be my next area of investigation — but for now, I’m really happy with how these calipers turned out after the teardown and cleaning process.

For this month’s blog update, I continued my pursuit of expanding both my mechanical knowledge and hands-on experience. This involved tearing down several additional braking components, including the disassembly of my original pair of OEM non-turbo front brake calipers, as well as a pair of OEM rear brake calipers, completing my planned efforts for the month. Throughout the dismantling process, I successfully broke each brake caliper down into its most basic components. While everything did not go entirely according to plan, I encountered a few challenges that required problem-solving and adaptability. Overcoming these obstacles provided valuable learning opportunities, and the experience I gained through this work will undoubtedly help me repair and maintain my Z more confidently in the future. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

PARTS ACQUIRED DURING THE MONTH OF JANUARY 2025 The last item to talk about for this months blog updates, is to do with a new part acquisition I was able to acquire all the way from Japan and though this new part is not a super rare optional part that I typically am on the look out for, it was a part that I know is now discontinued brand new from Nissan Japan and finding a used unit out in the wild online was going to be the next best way for me to acquire it for my 300ZX build project. Used Intercooler Duct Outer Bracket (Nissan P/N: 14486-VP100) https://i.postimg.cc/h4w57Jj5/Intercooler-Mounting-Bracket-Fabrication-2024.png https://i.postimg.cc/KvMs7Z3n/New-custom-made-bracket-1.jpg I then coated the custom made steel bracket in a high gloss chassis paint to protect it from rusting in the future. https://i.postimg.cc/CLq6CFns/Mounting-Bracket-After-Paint-2.jpg I installed the bracket onto the car during the final assembly process in October and the custom made bracket worked great to allow me to install the 2000spec intercooler ducting's onto the front section of the car. https://i.postimg.cc/jd7k6snh/7-During-Assembly-Process-LH-Intercooler-ducting-Mounts-2-Installed.jpg Fast forward 3 months later and while I was searching yahoo auctions looking for rare and optional parts to buy, I came across this auction for a single 2000spec intercooler ducting along with the 2 side brackets that the ducting uses to attach to the front frame of the car as well. https://i.postimg.cc/vHVS7QxV/Used-intercooler-Ducting-For-Sale-in-Japan.jpg At a price of only 3,000 yen which at the time was roughly $33 AUD, not only would I be getting the OEM bracket I needed but I would also get a spare LH intercooler duct, a spare inner bracket and spare OEM hardware which for me was a no brainer and so I emailed my contact in Japan and organised to purchased the group of items off of Yahoo auctions through him and it has taken about a month or so for the parts to finally arrive to me here in Australia. https://i.postimg.cc/YCNnVb34/Used-Set-Intercooler-Duct-and-Brackets-Arrived-From-Japan-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/tg2rRJ89/Used-Set-Intercooler-Duct-and-Brackets-Arrived-From-Japan-2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/W3z5djPh/Used-Set-Intercooler-Duct-and-Brackets-Arrived-From-Japan-3.jpg As much as I would have loved to just install the new replacement bracket onto the car, with all of the brake system and transmission issues the car has right now, I have decided to wait until the car is back to being mechanical functional once again and then when I have the time to install a few miscellaneous parts on the car, I'll do the installation process of the replacement bracket then.

REPLACING MY LEAKING POWER STEERING RACK Now its time to talk about that power steering fluid leak which my Dad discovered during the installation process of the pair of twin turbo front brake calipers. From what my Dad told me about the leak, was that it was pretty bad and when he turned the steering wheel full lock to either side of the car depending upon whichever caliper he was trying to install. He found a pool of power steering fluid on the garage floor directly under the right hand side rack end boot and he also stated that the amount of fluid coming out of the boot at the time was so much, that he reckons that if I was to have driven the car with the leak present, I would have very quickly leaked out all of the power steering fluid out of the system within several minutes and if that would have happened it would have cause all kinds of damage to the hydraulic steering pump and steering rack shortly after would and so obliviously we needed to address this power steering fluid leak as soon as possible. I will admit to you all, that this isn't just some random power steering fluid leak that just so happen to occur at this particular point in time. In fact this steering fluid leak has been an ongoing fluid leak on my car since I discovered it back in 2021, where I initially spotted the leak during a chassis inspection of he undercarriage of the car and though the leak really wasn't that bad when I discovered it. As you can see in the below photo, the rack end boot was beginning to become covered in power steering fluid but their were no signs of actually fluid dripping out from the boot at that time. As you would expect the steering fluid leak on the steering rack has been gradually getting worse as the years have past by and that leads us up to present day where the leak has now become so bad that if I didn't address it now, I run the risk of damaging several components in the steering system if the hydraulic part of the system was to run out of fluid completely. https://i.postimg.cc/VLcSQkcL/Old-leaking-Power-Steering-Rack.jpg The good news is that anticipating this was going to eventually happen to my car, I managed to found and purchased a reasonably price used power steering rack off of eBay that looked in decent enough condition and had no signs of leaking rack end boots on it. The replacement rack has been sitting in storage since I received it, waiting for the moment such as right now, when I was going to need to use it to replace my original leaking power steering rack. My Dad knowing that I was still too busy to have enough free time on my hands to get the swap over of the power steering racks done in a quick enough timeframe, he again offered to help me to do the work needed to swap over the 2 steering racks. This meant that I wouldn't get the chance to see the removal and installation process of the steering rack components onto my car, which would have allowed me to further increase my mechanical knowledge and understanding during the process. Still having my Dad be able to go through the whole removal and installation of the 2 power steering rack's for me was going to not just speed up the repair of this power steering fluid leak situation but once it was done, I could then my attention back to focusing on continuing to pull apart more brake components to hopefully find the cause of my spongy brake pedal problem much sooner then if I was to have to try and fix this fluid leak myself. Once I got home from work later that afternoon, I was then able to see my Dad's handy work with the newly installed used replacement steering rack now in place onto the front cross member of the car and finally there are no leaks to be seen coming from anywhere on the steering rack. https://i.postimg.cc/MTTSB6f1/New-Power-Steering-Rack-Installed-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/wBFz3yM7/New-Power-Steering-Rack-Installed-2.jpg To finish off this blog, the plans I have for my original leaking power steering rack will be a full teardown of the rack and then I will learning how to and going through a full rebuild of the unit myself. The rebuilt steering rack will then be put away into storage so that it can be used in the future as a backup replacement for this replacement used steering rack. I predicate that in the future parts like these will become very hard to find and also very expensive to replace and I prefer to have a spare brand new like condition unit sitting in storage now so that I don't have to worry about finding one in the future.

DISMANTLING OF MY ORIGINAL BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER After failing every attempt so far to fix my car's current spongy brake pedal feel problem over the last 2 months or so, It was time for me to take a big step back on further diagnosing the problem and instead I now wanted to alter my focus on trying to increase my mechanical experience, knowledge and understanding of the individual components within the braking system. I hope that this exploratory new process I am about to undertake, will eventually lead me to find the problem part that has been causing me to be unable to bleed all of the air out of my braking system. Targeting a single mechanical part at a time, I want to learn how to disassemble each part down to its most basic components as much as I can, from there figure out and learn how that specific mechanical part functions inside and out. Once I understand how that part works, I can then know if the part is faulty and how that part can be repaired in the future. Once I have solved the spongy brake pedal problem using this new learning experience, I can then expand my learning process to include other systems on the car such as the power steering system and maybe some electrical components as well. Starting off this new process, will me the disassembly of my original factory brake master cylinder which was present on my car when I brought it back in 2006 and then I replaced it with a 2000spec later model variant in 2011. The original BMC was then reinstalled back onto the car during the last time I attempted to do a brake caliper and rotor change on my car back in 2017 where my Dad assumed that the later model BMC was faulty. Dismantling this BMC and inspecting the 2 internal pistons and the bore of the cylinder will help me to verify whether or not this brake master cylinder is either good or bad. https://i.postimg.cc/jjCNP71t/1-Before-Photo-2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/YSjgYWPt/1-Before-Photo-3.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/MGXRVQL2/1-Before-Photo-4.jpg The first step is to remove the primary and secondary pistons found inside the master cylinder. I mounted my BMC into a vice and then removed the snap ring cover cap found at the end of the bore section on the cylinder. https://i.postimg.cc/N0VX40hy/2b-Piston-Removal-Rear-Cover-Plate-Removal-using-Pick.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/nL5mkL8K/2c-Piston-Removal-Rear-Cover-Plate-Removed.jpg Using a pick, I gently pried on the lip of the primary piston located at the end of the bore until it had come out far enough, so that I could pull the piston out by hand the rest of the way. https://i.postimg.cc/cJj3mJqQ/2d-Piston-Removal-Rear-Piston-Removal-Using-Pick.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/nrfQywhs/3b-Front-Piston-After-Removal.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/xCzzFSn1/3b-Front-Piston-After-Removal-Close-Up.jpg One down and one to go but the secondary piston was going to require a little bit more effort from me to be able to remove it as it was still located deep down inside the bore of the master cylinder and there was no way I was going to be able to pry it out using the same method I had done for the primary piston. I initially tried using a magnetic pickup tool to try and connect to and pull the piston out from the bore of the cylinder but no matter what I did, the magnetic on the pickup tool just wasn't strong enough to be able to hold onto back end of the piston with enough force to allow me to pull the piston out from inside the master cylinder. So using the information I had researched on several YouTube videos about how to disassemble a brake master cylinder, I switched over to using compressed air to try and push the secondary piston out of the bore of the cylinder. https://i.postimg.cc/g05hD09t/2f-Piston-Removal-Front-Piston-Removal-Using-Blow-Gun-From-Compressor.jpg Using a blowgun at the outlet valve port for the rear brakes on the BMC, I shot compressed air into the bore of the master cylinder and in no time at all the secondary piston had popped out from the bore of the cylinder. https://i.postimg.cc/3w6GBwMn/2f-Piston-Removal-Front-Piston-Removal-Piston-Popped-Out.jpg All that was left to do was to pull the secondary piston out the rest of the way by hand. https://i.postimg.cc/bJttFj8L/3a-Rear-Piston-After-Removal.jpg With the primary and secondary pistons now free of the master cylinder, I thoroughly inspected the rubber seals on both pistons to look for signs of tears in the rubber O-ring seals and or deformities. But from what I could see, both the primary and secondary pistons and all of the rubber O-ring seals attached to each piston were in perfect condition and there were no signs of any kind of damage to the pistons or seals of any kind. https://i.postimg.cc/yxhSsXDc/3b-Piston-Layout-Inside-The-Cylinder.jpg I was hoping from there to remove the reservoir bottle on the top of the bore of the cylinder but after several pulling and prying attempts to dislodge it off of the 2 rubber grommets holding the reservoir to the cylinder with no signs of movement from the reservoir, I decided to just leave it in place otherwise I could damage the plastic reservoir tank trying more aggressive removal methods. So now that I had reached the level of disassembly I was willing to go to with this brake master cylinder, I wanted to thoroughly clean out the entire unit so that I could inspect the bore of the cylinder for signs of damage. I placed the BMC into a suitable sized container and filled it with a degreasing cleaning solution and place it into my ultrasonic cleaning machine and put it through a 30 minute 60 degree cycle to remove all of the remaining old brake fluid residue found inside the bore and reservoir of the BMC after its disassembly. https://i.postimg.cc/mk3FBNP5/4a-Cleaning-Ultrasonic-amp-Simple-Green-HD-Cleaner.jpg After its cleaning cycle in the ultra sonic machine, I then blow dried the BMC thoroughly to leave me with a spotlessly clean almost brand new looking brake master cylinder. https://i.postimg.cc/Pf1DWhS8/4b-Cleaning-Ultrasonic-amp-Simple-Green-HD-Cleaner.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/XN95f3s2/4d-Cleaning-Ultrasonic-amp-Simple-Green-HD-Cleaner.jpg With the BMC clean and dry, I inspected the bore of the cylinder to find it as well in perfect condition with no marks, scuffs or damage present. https://i.postimg.cc/8kLvRDZB/4c-Cleaning-Ultrasonic-amp-Simple-Green-HD-Cleaner.jpg The only thing I noticed after the cleaning process was this metal disc cover on the end of the cylinder that faces the front of the car, began to start coming off the adhesive that attached it to the body of the master cylinder. https://i.postimg.cc/tCyxDfcv/5a-Front-Disc-Cover-Falling-Off.jpg Once I removed the cover completely, there was a female hex headed bolt behind the cover. https://i.postimg.cc/xTYzg7Zw/5b-Front-Disc-Cover-amp-Adhesive-Removed.jpg And with all of that now done, I can safely assume that this brake master cylinder is in perfect working condition and there is no indications that it is faulty in any way. There is no damage to the internal bore of the cylinder and the components of the primary and secondary pistons are also in good condition. I was definitely very happy with the outcome of my first disassembly process on one of the components of my car's braking system. I set myself a reasonable goal to achieve and using the information I had gathered from my research to effectively perform the task required to disassemble the unit down as much as I was happy with and once disassembled I was able to clean and confirm that my original BMC is not faulty and was not the cause of my car's inability to bleed all of the air out of the braking system. My new plan was definitely working as i intended it to and I couldn't wait to continue to pull apart more parts and learn more about my car then I had ever done be before and thought possible.

MY SECOND ATTEMPT TO FIX MY CAR'S BRAKE BLEEDING PROBLEMS Continuing on from where I left off in last months blog updates, the huge issue I had with my inability to bleed my car's braking system, was still weighing heavily on me over the Christmas break and though I still couldn't understand why I still had a spongy full travel brake pedal feel after going though 9 complete brake bleeding attempts. Still I wasn't ready just yet to give up on trying to fix the problem myself and so during my time off from work over Christmas, I spent a lot of time researching the problem on the internet and I also watched a ton of videos on YouTube, describing how to bleed braking systems on cars as well as how to fix spongy brake pedal symptoms. The hope was that the information in these videos may give me clues to be able to find a solution that would explain exactly why and how I could fix my specific brake bleeding problem and if I could find that one piece of information I was looking for, then I could finally cure my car's current brake problem of a full travel and spongy brake pedal feel. On top of all of the researching I was doing, my Dad was also doing his own research in to the matter and during Christmas Day we both consolidated our research to hopefully find a solution and or develop a plan of attack that we would use to fix the brake bleeding problem with my car moving forward. Some of the ideas that my Dad had found in his research lead him to believe that maybe the ABS pump was faulty in some way and if it was allowing air to enter into the system that could be why the brakes wouldn't bleed properly and because I recently had an accident in the car, its possible that the ABS pump went bad or seized in some way after the accident. The other idea that he had as well, was that maybe the problem was being caused by one or more seized pistons inside one or both of the front brake calipers which again could be why air was remaining trapped in the braking system and replacing both of the front calipers might be a good idea to rule that potential problem out. Luckily for me I already had a spare pair of later model iron twin turbo brake calipers which have been sitting in storage for the last 7 or so years and as I mentioned in last months blog updates, the plan was to rebuild and restore that pair of later model TT brake calipers at some point as part of a massive restoration project I had planned for my braking system. But in order for me to get past this brake bleeding problem I had with my car's brakes, some sacrifices needed to be made in order for me to finally get my car back on the road as soon as possible. Even though I had missed the scheduled inspection date for the transmission repair process to begin at the transmission specialist by now, I was hopeful to try and get my car back on the road and be ready so that I could reschedule the inspection of the transmission at a later date with the specialist and I just needed my car drivable to make that a reality. So after all of the research and discussions with my Dad, the decision was made to carry out the easiest of the 2 suggestion my Dad made which would involve removing and replacing my original pair of NA front brake calipers with my pair of later model twin turbo brake calipers but because my time off of work was about to end after the Christmas break, my Dad wanted to step in a help me out by offering to come down to my place and remove my pair of old NA brake calipers and then install the replacement TT brake calipers for me. This way I could still go to work and do my regular day job while he is able to fast track the swap over of the old and new brake calipers, saving me time to get the job done as soon as possible. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS The process to swap over the 2 front brake calipers on my car is a pretty simple job to do with the first step being the removal of each brake hardline on the brake caliper and then removing the 2 mounting fasteners holding the calipers onto the 2 front hub assemblies. With my Dad's experience on my side, I was very hopeful that this swap over of brake calipers would be the fix I was looking for to cure my car's spongy brake pedal feel. Before we installed each of the later model twin turbo brake calipers onto the 2 front hub assemblies, we bench tested and lubricated to some degree, all 8 of each of the twin turbos brake caliper pistons to make sure none of them were seized inside the body of each caliper and then once all of the bench testing was done, we reseated all of the calipers pistons back into a fully seated internal position. https://i.postimg.cc/L8byrX6M/TT-Front-Brake-Calipers-Set.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/52RPZ09p/Close-Up-Brake-Caliper-Pistons.jpg Even though I was happy to finally be putting these TT brake calipers back onto my car after running with my NA calipers for the last several years. I was still very disappointed with myself that I never got a chance to properly strip down and repaint this set of TT brake calipers, as they look pretty ugly in this deteriorated stated that their in after 14 years of use on the car. But my hopes were riding on the chance that this swap over could be the key to solving my spongy brake pedal feel problem and the only the way to know for sure that it was the brake calipers, was to install the TT calipers onto the car and then bleed the system and cross my fingers that this fixes my brake problem. https://i.postimg.cc/ht5CHj4C/Front-TT-Brake-Caliper-amp-New-Vmax-Slotted-Rotors-Installed-2.jpg When I returned home later that afternoon, my Dad had wasted no time at all removing the old brake calipers and installing both of the TT brake calipers onto the 2 front hub assemblies. While he was at it, he also installed a new set of Vmax slotted front brake rotors as well as install a full set of new replacement Repco branded ceramic front brake pads to complete the installation process of my new front brakes setup. https://i.postimg.cc/BnVhd6ZM/Front-TT-Brake-Caliper-amp-New-Vmax-Slotted-Rotors-Installed-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/ht5CHj4C/Front-TT-Brake-Caliper-amp-New-Vmax-Slotted-Rotors-Installed-2.jpg ONTO MORE BRAKE BLEEDING With both of the replacement TT brake calipers now installed and connected to the rest of the braking system on the car, all that was left to do now was hopefully one more final bleed of my car's the braking system which if my count is right would be the 11th time we have had to bleed this system. This was the moment I had been dreading all day and all I could do was hope that changing the two front brake calipers finally fixes my car's spongy full travel brake pedal feel. My Dad had been waiting patiently for me to return home after work so we could do the bleeding process together using the old school two person bleeding method to bleed the brakes and if all goes well, my car will finally have functional brakes once again and I can then drive it on the road for the first time in 4 months. But after completing the bleed process and starting the car to test the functionality of the brakes, the dreaded spongy brake pedal feel was still frustratingly present and as you can imagine all of the hope that I had built up over the last week for this new plan to succeed were now gone and my angry and frustration with this problem boiled over once again with me shouting and arguing with my Dad about why this is happening to me and my car and why we can't seem to fix the problem. My Dad trying his best to calm me down, still wasn't sure what the problem was either but now believed that the problem was with the ABS pump being faulty in someway and that we should look into bench testing it and or replacing it to eliminate it from the equation. On top of the unsuccessful brake bleeding process, my Dad also informed me of a massive power steering leak that he discovered coming from the rack end boots on my original power steering rack and that even if we had fixed the brakes at that time, the power steering rack would also need to be repaired and or replaced to fix the leak and only then would we be able to drive the car otherwise I could damage something on the power steering system if I didn't act on the leak now. Unfortunately I was just too damn angry at this point to care about this and that and I just couldn't handle thinking about spending more time and energy on this stupid car right now and so the decision was made to halt working on the car and take a step back and rethink our next steps that we needed to take to continue diagnosing this braking and power steering problems. After sitting down with my Dad and going through another long deep discussion with him about my car and all of the problems it has at the moment, it was clear to me from that talk, that my lack of mechanical experience and understanding was a key component as to why my car is currently in this particular state of condition. Most of the work I had been doing on this car was mainly focused on more cosmetic changes and additions more then anything. But very few mechanical repairs and or changes were made to improve the reliability of the mechanical components on my car. Though I had tried over the last 10 years or so to dramatically increase my mechanical service knowledge on this car doing more deep dive service work as the car has been slowly working its way to 300,000km on the odometer. I still hadn't yet started exploring more deep dives in tearing down mechanical components, such as alternators and brake calipers not just restore them but to try and better understand how they work and also how to repair them myself when they eventually wear out over time. From that moment on, I made a promise to myself that I was no longer going to be afraid of pulling something apart that needed to be either repaired and or restored in the future. Instead I wanted to embrace the journey of exploration that I would need to take in order for me to learn and understand what could be wrong with something and also be confident enough with my abilities, that I could fix whatever was broken on my car myself and only then could I overcome all of this stress, anxiety and angry I have had working on my 30+ year old car in the last 10 years or so. So with a new look on things sparking my curiosity, I will be putting aside any further diagnosis on the spongy brake pedal feel problem for now and instead begin the process of pulling apart as many mechanical components in my braking system as I can and hopefully find from that journey of discovery, the location of the problem during my deep dive into my car's braking system. I will start by learning how to pull apart a couple of spare brake component parts like my original brake master cylinder and a pair of used rear brake calipers to help me learn the process of dismantling those parts and to help me understand how they work internally. The knowledge I hope to gain from these small initial steps will give me the confidence I will need to then pull apart more complex components in the future, like an alternator and or starter motor and eventually I hope to learn how to pull apart a steering rack and maybe an automatic transmission and even VG30DE engine one day. With this new knowledge and information under my belt I can confidently say I should be able to repair anything on my car in the future and never have to fear worrying about spending money paying someone else to fix it one day in the future.

With a new start to the year rolling around, the big hope for this months project updates was that I want to finally solve my car's current spongy brake pedal problem and to do this a plan was made to swap out my original pair of NA front brake calipers with a set of later model iron TT brake calipers. Unfortunately for me the brake bleeding process that followed after the swap over of front brake calipers did not produce the desired result I was hoping for which caused me to have to take a step back from further diagnosing and fixing the problem for the time being until I can better understand why this is happening and how to best to repair it moving forward. On top of the ongoing spongy brake pedal problem, a huge power steering rack leak was also discovered during the brake bleeding process and needed to be address as soon as possible. If I didn't address it now, I would run the risk of damaging several mechanical components within the steering system. This resulted in me having to fast track the installation of a spare used replacement power steering rack onto the car and thanks to efforts of my Dad, the leaking power steering fluid situation should now be all resolved. This month also saw me take my first steps in undertaking a new process I want to do to increase my mechanical knowledge and understand with the disassembly of my original brake master cylinder in an attempt to help me learn more about my car's braking system. My hope is that this new process will not just help me to dramatically increase my mechanical skillset and abilities but also allow me to be able to teardown potentially faulty parts in the future and help me to determine if a part is either damaged beyond repair and or repairable and hopefully the more parts I teardown over time, the more confident I will become in being able to solve issues like my spongy brake pedal problem myself in the future. The disassembly process of my original brake master cylinder went extremely well for me and I learnt a lot about how a brake master cylinder works internally and I was able to find out that my original Brake master cylinder was not damaged or faulty in any way and was not the cause of my car's current spongy brake pedal problems. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32