Munny975

I know alot of Garages (Mainstream) do free brake tests but its whether or not they allow you to leave without getting new stuff fitted if its f**ked is another matter

As above check discs and pads first! May get lucky and just have uneven pads but most likely the discs

OMG i was looking at those last night and was thinking Cha, that would be Sweeeet on the right Zed

daily driver FTW!

Crank the knob to the Right :)

I was bought this one for Christmas (CLICKY) and its held up great over the winter even when it blew off in the wind and was Run over by about 20cars! Not expensive and if it rips/ tears or is blown away (Now properly anchored) then its no biggie! Protected the car over whole winter No Stress!

Rofl Rofl

Well if the Previous Owner had set the boost to only 10psi there may well be a reason for it (perhaps a quick ring to clarify) or he may have just wanted to play safe! Also if you whack the boost right up to 14.5psi (1bar) you are really maxing out your Fuel injectors and risk running Lean which on boost is only going to make things fail fast! Your turbos are old if they are stock and you may or may not have any idea of condition and the higher you crank up the boost the Shorter the life of them so remember to take this into consideration. Running max boost may work for 2days, 2weeks, 2years who knows its all in the condition of all the parts! In my opinion its an Unnecessary risk to go to the max, 12.5-13psi gives you a great kick still but gives you that margin of safety :)

Blurry wheels and deep pixelation would suggest its a photoshop :)

Stage I Cargo Cover………………………………........ ......................... ........... 2.3kgs Spare Tire, Jack, Wheel Chock’s, and Inflator Can…………………..… 14.5kgs Rear Hatch Weight………………………………....... ......................... .. 1.4kgs Driver Seat (61)àAftermarket w/ alum. sliders and bracket(25)… 16.4kgs Passenger Seat (42)àAftermarket w/ alum etc........................ 7.7kgs Rear Tow Hooks………………………………........ ......................... .......1.6kgs PRVR System………………………………....... ......................... ............0.7kgs Center Support Bearing………………………………...……. ...…......…. 0.5kgs Stock Drive shaft (31)à 1 Piece Steel(17)…………..…….….….... .…… 6.4kgs Battery (45-50)à Light Weight Battery(15)…………………………….. 13.6kgs *(Also move to trunk, pass. Side) Pre Cats (21)à Down pipes (14)…………………………….…..…..... .... 3.2kgs Stock Cats(26)à Test Pipes Alum(14) SS w/ flex joints(17.5)……… 5kgs Flywheel(21)à RPS (12.5)……………………………........ ..................... 3.9kgs Under drive Pulley(11)à Lightweight Pulley(2)………………………….. 4.1kgs Headlight Aimers………………………………....... ......................... ........0.9kgs Timing Belt Covers………………………………....... ......................... ......0.7kgs Fan Shroud………………………………....... ......................... ................0.5kgs Apparently the Stock Air Box Weighs More Than an Intake………….…..2.3kgs TOTAL… 85.7kgs Stage II Window Washer Reservoir and all Associated Lines………………2.3kgs Cruise Control………………………………...... ......................... ..0.9kgs All 4 Strut Actuators (do you really use them?)……………………0.7kgs Black Tar Sound Deadening Material……………………………… 15kgs Rear Wipers………………………………....... ......................... ....1.4kgs AIV System………………………………....... ......................... .....5.5kgs T-Tops (14.5)à Carbon Fiber(5)…..X2.…………………………. . 6.8kgs T-Top Wind Blockers………………………………..... .................. 0.5kgs T-Top Shades………………………………....... ......................... ..0.9kgs Fog Light Air Ducts……………………………..…...... ................. 1kgs Light Weight Steering Wheel………………………………........ ... 2.3kgs TOTAL… 37.3kgs Stage III Front Carpet w/ Insulation Attached………………………………6.8kgs Rear Rug and Wooden Spare Cover………………………………..3.6kgs ALL Plastic Panels with their Insulation Attached………… 10.5kgs All Tweed and Carpet Covered Panels……………………………4.5kgs *With exception to those touching the Dash *Also Doors are intact minus the AC ducting and Insulation Misc. Insulation………………………………... ........................2.3kgs Radio, Speakers and all Associated Wiring………………………13.6kgs Antenna and all Associated Wiring………………………………. 1.1kgs Rear Pressure Equalizing Vents………………………………....... 0.7kgs TOTAL… 43.1kgs Stage IV AC and Heater System in Car (located under dash)……………… 12kgs AC Condenser and Other Engine Bay Lines (in front of radiator).4.5kgs AC Fan……………………………….......... ......................... ......... 2.3kgs The Idler Puller and belt for the AC….………………….............. . 0.5kgs Air Bag Controls in Car and all Associated Lines………………… 3kgs Front Wipers………………………………....... ......................... ....2.3kgs EGR System………………………………....... ......................... .....2.3kgs Carbon Canister………………………………..... ......................... .1.4kgs TOTAL… 28.3kgs Stage V HICAS Removal and NA Power Steering System Install………….17kgs Remove Passenger Seat………………………………......... ...........15kgs All wires no longer in use if following Stages I-IV…………..……9kgs TOTAL… 41kgs Stage VI Escort FPR Doors (2+0Only)...……………………..... ...................23kgs *(They only weigh 10 lbs a piece) Speed Glass install for all Glass would probably drop……………..29.5kgs TT Rear to NA Rear is supposed to drop a good…………………… 22.7kgs Dash, Gauge Cluster Cover, Metal Bracket, and Din Panel…....7.3kgs Door Skins………………………………........ ......................... .......4.5kgs Your Soggy Ass Turbo Deck (I would never ditch mine)………….4.5kgs Carbon Fiber Hatch with Lexan from AMZ………………………… 18.2kgs Titanium Exhaust………………………………...... ......................... 6.8kgs Install Lighter Fuel Cell………………………………......... .............???????????? Cut out sheet metal skin on rear hatch……………………………….??????? ????? TOTAL... 116.5kgs Grand Total Weight Loss = 351.9kgs Weight of 2+2 Model 1600kgs - Weight Loss Program = 1248.1kgs Weight of 2+0 Model 1490kgs - Weight Loss Program = 1138.1kgs Thought putting it all into Kilograms would help us all understand the real Weight of all our parts!

IIRC the Skyline Coilovers fit a Zed but the rears need a little modifying and may sit a little higher so would have to be on a super low setting, but the HIcas and joints are all similar or the same If that helps you out at all

probably funnier in its full context at the time but not finding it funny tbh

IIRC i never saw a COTM competition with more than 100votes anyways (which is prob why it died) so ZX-eyes challenge will be hard to beat :)

would hate to be the passenger in that 1!

ROFL!!!!!!! :taz::taz::taz:

pull the hose off exit end of fuel filter, crank for a sec with cup at end, if cup fills with fuel its not fuel related :) Does sound like CAS Sensor. Check the little plug by the Boost hoses (On side of CAS unit) just wiggle it to make sure its in :)

Were you not getting Custom Management Andy? If you were you can get a setup for Water injection as the things you need to know is Flow Rate, Mist level, When it kicks in (as in RPM/ Boost) and when to cut off. Think thats about it IIRC, then you dont even need the super expensive aquamist rigs. Aquamist are really just a Water Tank, Nozzle, Pump and Triggers for it to go on and off etc which can be done in Custom ECU Packs. We got one using a high flow Valve and nozzle, a Window washer Reservoir, and a small electric water pump and the whole thing was about 30quid! Put a setup on his Engine management and after testing before we put it in fiddled about then saw a noticeable increase in boost performance and a HUGE decrease in manifold Temps and its been working well ever since! I remember another system http://www.ztune.ca/product.aspx?productid=6345ed3c-fed4-dc11-97a0-0003ff00e495 http://www.ztune.ca/product.aspx?productid=bc55c9c9-17f1-dc11-b306-0003ff00e495 Could be a alternative seeing it from a Zed store in the US :)

The following setup is just abit higher than mine http://orders.ebuyer.com/customer/shopping/index.html?action=c2hvd2NhcnQ%3D Think i have everything you are looking for with a few Changes IE Processor, ram etc. And its 200quid cheaper :D

Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Water Temp (Also known as Engine Temp) You could also do Boost (PSI or BAR) EGT (Exhuast Gas Temp's if your into Tuning) Rest are waste of time really although ,may have forgot an important one.

i did http://www.antec.outervision.com/PSUEngine to find out the kind of power i would be using and i run AMD Phenom 2 x4cores at 3.2ghz (overclocked a little as stock is 3ghz) and 2HDD, 4Fans, and 2 Nvidia 8800GT GPU's and it totalled me at 400watts IIRC and i got a 500w PSU in case for 60quid, Much like that one you posted up earlier (and as a Hardcore Gamer, 3d Designer and Video Editor) it takes alot of beatings and still works like a charm. See what power with what setup you will be running and buy accordingly! This will help in your decision! I got all my parts from Ebuyer.com and they were spot on with everything! That setup cost me 400quid with a New Gigabyte Motherboard! but i only had to buy 1HDD with that cash! Have a search! Without Overclocking i put my setup at Future-proof for around 3years and with overclocking to maybe 4/5years! Buy quality parts with a good spec (dont overspend on the Newest one as not always the best) IE the Nvidia 9series GPU are actually recovered 8Series and have little to no change yet charge more! Research is your friend here!! Sorry for Essay!

If you are NOT delocking the boot, you can climb through the boot when you have a flat battery (Only way i can get in with a flat as my Door locks have been mashed at some point with the previous owner)

Zed's a mess at the mo but ill see you guys at 10am to help out :)

I got those same bulbs in mine, abit crap for lighting up the distance but nice and white up close! Then again my beam's aim maybe sh*t!

banging from the exhaust etc is caused by Over-fuelling! your fuel map is wa*k which will point to your 02 sensors being gash, thus your air-fuel ratio is shit, back to stock routine as it cant measure the afr and your naturally over-fuelling as its safer for the engine than running lean especially on boost!

isnt the r33 rear setup and running gear very similar to the Z32's anyway? may just be engine and custom belhousing adapter and your all set!