jaffa

Some really nice touches and good quality work. Here ...

they do, just a smaller one :(

don't forget the two bolts at the top, and you can always unbolt the oil cooler, 4 bolts at the bottom if I remember, and then swing it out the way

any hints and tips? how to drain the fluid before removing pipe etc? Thanks

good luck guys!

here here :)

isn't that the stock boost sensor for the stock boost gauge? Mine's disconnected and no probs found. Make sure that the vac line is blocked though if diconnected, or you'll have a nice air leak ;)

I have noticed that my Uk oil cooler actually gets quite warm, surprised me as I never felt the old Jap one doing that, so I guess it's working!

here you go, need to take a better picture sometime when the car's not in the garage ;) http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=31808&highlight=dual+MAF

i have 265/35 rears on 18's so I would have though you'd want 30 profile with 19's

I have no problem at all with my idle using the JWT twin POP pipework and dual MAF. This is no dig, just letting other people know the options ;)

try dorset insurance, mine's £1700 fully comp, full no claims, seriously dodgy london postcode (E5) mods declared

Looks like my PS high pressure hose is leaking, and from searching on here the Nissan part is quite expensive and it would be better to take the hose off to a hydrolic hose place to get them to make one up for me. I've also read about a PS leak possibly causing alternator probs so best get it sorted sooner than later. So any tips on removing the hose? draining the system first etc? Any other opinions or useful advise from those that have been there done that :)

I would say run it at a fairly low boost setting (less than 10 psi) then get yourself to Thor for a few runs. You can then do quite a few runs, measure the A/F ratio, and slowly raise the boost. You then stop raising the boost when A/F curve isn't coping, you run the risk of detting, or you're producing so much HP you're crapping yourself!!

here you go from when I did mine ... UK Oil cooler on the left, Jap spec on the right

Spotted this new Ferrari Prototype today in Knightsbridge.... as you can see, complete :xxx: :xxx: , even left the Supra badge on too :slap: (Side pic is a bit blurred but you can see the side badges too!) PS Thanks to Louise for taking the pics for our general amusement :) :cool:

opps, sorry missed this. SMW1 has a video somewhere of me accelarating away somewhere. here's one I found that sounds very similar, mine's a bit deeper, probably due to de-cat http://rides.300zx.co.uk/rides/1419/greddy_EVO_exhaust.wmv I'll see if I can persuade Louise to do some filming later ;)

probably worth investing in a fuel pressure gauge so you see what's going on then...

They were there when I imported it. They're known as Greddy SP2 I think in the states

Greddy/Trust 5" back boxes, de-cat and staight through centre section means it's loud but nice :)

have you checked your Fuel Pressure Regulator, this should adjust the pressure depending on boost/vaccum.

might be the IAA/AAV solonoids... clicky you can use thius to adjust the idle, but it probably just needs a good dose of carb cleaner / wd40. also worth checking the electrical connections for the usual crud

exhaust will help as that's a big restriction at the mo, de-catting will also help. You can then move on to down pipes, and if you're desperate/feeling flush :) the manifolds. You can port the stock ones, but you're best off going to either Pentroof ones or The new Inconel ones from Greg Dupree (stocked by Smithy). Manifolds are an engine out job, down pipes are gearbox off jobs (I think)

sounds right, the dash boost gauge is useless and not very accurate. So good news then!

what fuel are you using? - could also be the hot weather causing your problems