SMW1

Hi mate, if you have posted this up before can you link us to the thread or at least tell us what you have tried. My first impression is Series 1 ptu. If you haven't tried this already swap your ptu over for another one if that works invest some money into a series two ptu. If not then try cleaning or replacing your temp sensor. The symptoms fit both of these solutions.

I guess not :D. Would be interested to see it though :)

Top man, Mark to the rescue again :).

Is anyone going that has a conzult ?. I have mine but my PC has stopped seeing the car, so I'm assuming the lead has packed up, I'll be sending this back to Danny, but I wouldn't mind running a conzult on it as it's not had one since the rebuild. Would ideally like to rig it up and check it out before I go on the dyno.

Was it the 600's or 700's that they call disco potatoe ?

Forgot to add, if you are talking about oil bather pipes that you want to change, do a serachon here for PCV. you'll find tech docs and diagrams on how to change these.

If you put any sort of engline flush in it and drive it normally then you could do it damage, if you do try and flush the engine with anything drive it carefully as Old Zed reccommends. To be honest your oil temp gauge doiesn't soudn too bad, the pressure starting at 60 and dropping as the engine heats up is fairly normal. What oil are you using ?. It may just be that the oil that was in there is the wrong type and too thin. Any sign of smoke ?. The lifters in the 300zx do take a good beating at times. You can see in the picture below that they build up a sludge on the contact side which starts to set with the heat leaving you with ring marks. The picture from top to bottom on the right is the lifter surface before, during and after a heated oil soak. This was a lifter that was reconditionable, I think I had about 7 out of 24 that were pass the point of no return.

the maf usually faults on revs rather than speed. i.e. 4k is a know hot spot for faulty MAF's. Not sure Carb cleaner is the best thing to use, a light air jet will do the job the best. You don't really want moisture of any kind round the maf, it's very sensative. Get yourself rigged up to a conzult mate. If you subscribe to the club for only £20 you become one of the family and people will be more that happy to help. ;)

Strange that the 600's are 4 bolt. I have 530bb's on mine and they are 5 bolt.

ed beat me to it. I was going to suggest that if have had an accident you are more than likely to have a boost leak.

Do you have an information led which shows you problem codes or information that the alarm has been triggered and what by or is that only the cliffords that do that ?

What you had done to it now ?.

You missed the bit between the passenger door and the glove box, or was this left intentionally :). Looks good mate, nice job.

I did mine a few weeks ago, It's very tight down the back there. I moved move of the power cables out of the way first that run across the back of the engine. Getting the old pipes off is not too bad, getting the new ones on, well... I'm afraid that's a little more tricky. It takes time and is very tight and fiddly but you will get there eventually. Only took me 4 hours !!! LMAO !!

small animal fell asleep next to one of your tubs ?

I think it's more than 55% of people that can read it.

If you go any bigger than 500's or gt525's you will need change your down pipes, this wil probably mean you need your exhaust modified as well. Bascially the stock, jwt 500 and gt525 have 4 studs to onnect to the down pipes, most bigger turbo's have 5 studs. There's your problem.

because if you don't have sensors on the front wheels, the racelogic doesn't know if the back wheels are spinning or not as it has nothing to compare them against.

The funny thing I noticed is you were sitting on the back seats not the front lol.

yup no boost gauge.

DTA motor sport should be able to supply.

No they are different lengths.

Some people knock on the door just so they can see inside to see if the car keys are hanging near the door, Fishing rod trick - old school.

always loved the look of your car, sorry to hear you sold it. Pics

I fit was dodgy sensor on the wheels themselves the ABS light would be permanently on as it would have to disable itself. I think if the wiring is correct and the correct wheel/tyre measurements have been put in correctly then it may be a problem with the racelogic unit itself.