SMW1

someone call the wheel police.

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This may be a repost but come on .....

In the following order: 1982 fiesta popular plus 950cc 1990 Sierra GLX 1800cc BMW 735 sei 1991 3500cc Nissan 300zx TT 2+2 1990 - still own Nissan 300zx NA 2+0 1992 Rover 620 si 1996 2000cc BMW 523 sei 2001 2500cc - still own Citroen xsara 1.4 2004 Volvo 850 T5-R 1998

You also need to be careful with the silicone, I think the best one you can get that DTA sells also is the 4 ply silicone, very strong and durable.

Is that Flunkey Si ?

The mesh is actually wire. The common cause for that happening is small rust particles eat away at one of the strands, once one goes the constant pulling from the underside as the air is sucked in will eventually make a mess of it. To be honest and as others have said, the filters or induction itself will prevent smaller particles than that mess will, so you don't really need to worry about it. I would however remove it as you don't want any more mesh sucked into your engine that you already may have.

don't buy them off e-bay until you check with DTA. Some grades of SS will still rust when fitted. You need to get a certain grade of SS. Danny will provide more info.

It's got nothing to do with engine warming it's all about sound proofing.

ok in the mean time grab the tech document form tt.net on how to fit it just incase you spot something obvious. I tried to get on there to link it for you but it just kept timing me out.

The only prblem with the idle cool down is that the oil and water in the engine doesn't flow around as much as it does when you are moving, coming off boost for a couple of miles after a good bashing if far better for the car then to pull up and let it idle for 2 mins. LOL nice photoshop :D

Your lenses look ok, have you thought about just removing the orange part and replacing the bulbs with silvers to keep it legal ?. Silver bulbs look silver but actually flash orange. If you want to go down this route let me knwo and I'll dig out the write up for when I did mine. If not then Danny or clearcorners will sell them. Even ebay has some on there.

I don't have a clue mate. I have race logic traction control myself but have not played with it for a long time, even though I fitted it myself as well. I'm assuming they wired the sensor wires to the ABS ECU in the rear drivers quarter pannel ?. Or did they wire them directly to each sensor ? Do you have the software to connect it up to a laptop ?. I have a laptop dedicated to my car with racelogic, clifford alarm and conzult installed. If you are attending a meet that I am going to I have no problem bringing it along so we can have a look at the settings, but if's I'm totally honest the car was off the road for so long I can't remeber half the stuff on there.

Hi p3zza and welcome to the site. I'm with Stella on the induction. The Apexi cone although a little smaller than the blitz Sus (the two best selling induction kits for the 300zx Z32) is better as it actually has a slightly higher flow rate. As for the exhaust, for now I would just replace the back of the exhaust i.e. leave the cat's in place. If you have only just go tthe car it would be worth just doing induction and exhaust and see how it drives. As Stella says, removing the cats doesn't necessary mean you will then need to replace your turbo's, however it does mean that the turbo's lifespan will be shortened. Turbo life span is usually 70,000 miles on average. But obviously this totaaly depends on how the car has been maintained and driven, some last longer and some shorter. The main thing to remember is that if you remove the cat's the lifespan will be shorter that what it would have been if you left them in. You will notice a difference in performance by changing jsut the induction, then a little more improvement after you change the exhaust. What I would suggest is not to rush into modifing as soon as you can. Enjoy the car and modify / upgrade as and when when things break.

Lets organise a convoy then in the events section :). Gotta feed the baby I'l start something up in a bit.

Mark, was talking to the wife about this yesterday, we think it may be a bit of a long day for our 7 month old, so I'll probably be coming along on my tod. Shame as I would have liked to introduced my wife and daughter to everyone who knows me, but I guess on the bright side I can be a little more reckless and test the car out a little more on the way there (without breaking any laws obviously). Kshhhhhh Sierra Oscar, Sierra Oscar, please keep your eyes peeled for a silver 300zx sports car heading south on the M25, Suspect will be wearing a huge grin on his face, over.

I'll be running my own fuel protest by belting it southbound round the M25 at 9 am :).

Even thinking of selling cost £20 these days :). It's the price of inflation ;)

When turbo's go 9 / 10 times you will get smoke on acceleration. It's a little strange that you don't have any. But then not being able to boost past 0 is 9 / 10 times pointing at your tubo failure. The other 1 / 10 time is pointing to one hell of a boost leak :D. I think the smoke you are getting is probally either condensation or pcv valves are a little clogged. The noise you are hearing could be a number of things, but as I say that fact that you can not hit boost will usually point at your turbo's. Although it may be a pinking sound where the timing is out. It's really hard to tell without seeing the car. It may be worth checking to see if you are near to anyone to get a second opinion before lifting the lump out and buying new tubs.

Mods, Can we have a mass merge of number plate info in the FAQ section. What with the new laws about plates out now, we will be getting so many questions. This thread is very useful as well for people with Jap imports.

Looking at that vid, ok the last two or three cars, they tried to stop, tried to be careful, but the first car, fook me what was he doing ?. he had his foot on the gas.

I think all tripple plate clutch sound like that muffin :). I've been in 3 zed's now with tripple plates and they all make the same rattling noises, 2 of them you have to heal toe to change down a gea as well.

I agree with Jimmer £2500 is over priced. I would also agree with Dunk, it sounds like your turbine wheel has either come loose a little and the squeeling it it trying to spin but being obstructed by the castings. Are you getting smoke as well, as the standard turbo seals are oil based and they would usually leak inside the turbo turning into blue / grey smoke out of that side of the exhaust. The temp sensor error code 13 would not put you into safty boost, it would however have other sympoms like limited and juddering acceleration and also stalling when stopping quick and changing down gears once warm. I know you don't want ot hear this but not being able to boost past 0 is a sure sign that at least one of the turbo's have given up. I had the same on mine 3 years ago, smoke from the zorst then rattleing/squeeling as I'm trying to go into boost. Then eventually no boost at all not even safety boost. I took the engine out and checked the turbo's the one that was smoking had eaten away the edges of the blades against the casting. Sorry to hear about this but I think the best thing you can do at the moment is shop around on here and ask people for quotes and more importantly timelines (these are usually a priority and slip more than the overal cost).

Is that a storm over a volcano or something or jsut a storm ?. Got any bigger pics of them ?. I've love one of those as a wallpaper :).

You can drill a small hole in the bottom to sort this problem out and then use a grommet / bung to seal it back up, I'll try and find the tech article. and link it in. http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.49