SMW1

Not sure that would work on my wheels as they don't have a rim as such, the spokes kinda join flush to the outta edge.

Mines lost it's bling touch over the last 3 years of being off the road. The polished stuff has started to oxidise and started to show signs of rust spots. Was looking through the rides section and saw this picture of Smithy's Engine bay (hope you don't mind me posting it up). I have to say this is one of if not the nicest engine bay I have ever. :bow: Are all the polished bits chromed as well or is there some sort of lacqure on them ?

Really sorry to hear that mate :(

My wheels need a refurb. I've been thinking about this for 3 years now !!!. Keep then silver, go black chrome (don't like normal chrome) Or a nice deep gloss black. Even after 3 years I still can't make up my mind. I have a set of stock wheels at home. I think I'm going to paint them black and put them on the car to see how they look. Photoshop just doesn't seem to convince me to make a decision.

Great news mate, looking forward to seeing her when she's all done.

Congratulations Si. It's always impressive when a company has been trying to fill a position for a long time and have had a lot of applicants. You've obviously got something they needed. What is it you do ?

I'll see if I can get one to match my existing dials.

Lol, I didn't realise it was a get you going chip. I thought it was a map for 555's and doolz, I assumed that if someone has a doolz twin and 555's they would have had bigger tubs as well and again I assumed that the chip was mapped on that so I should be good for 20 psi. I'm glad you reminded me actually Andy cause I owe you some money for that. Can you pm me your account details or paypal account and let me know how much you want for it and I'll send the payment first thing in the morning.

Loved it, Hamster eating the results at the end just topped it off for me. Great start to the series.

Thanks for the suggestions. It feels like if I do managed to get to 20 psi without det I'm gonna write it off LMAO !! On a serious note it feels fooking rapid. I know I haven't driven it for 3 years but I know how quick it used to be at 14 psi on stock tubs and injectors and now even at 11 psi it seemed allot quicker. 15 psi is putting a big smile on my face.

Ah thinking about it the last time I filled up V-power had run out at the three garages I tried so I put super 99 in from tesco, it's probably half petrol and half sewage. This could be the reason but I would have thought that would account for 3 - 4 max pis drop rather than 7 psi. Yeah may well do that, depending on the options, price and availablity.

I assumed these Tubs and injectors were supposed to be able to handle 24 psi. Since I'm fully run in and have done another oil change, I thought I'd start upping the boost little by little. Got up to 16 psi and had a little spike as you do to 17 psi. It was here I heard what I thought may have been a little det, so I upped agian to 16.5 and nothing (no spike) when I went to 17 psi I started hearing det on hard acceleration around 5.5 rpm. I can only assume that the chip I have is incorrectly mapped for my set up so looks like I need to get it mapped correctly. In the meantime I've put the boost back down to 15 psi. I currently have a twin pop with 1 dummy MAF. The chip is mapped for 555's and doolz indution whihc I have. I think I have two choices: 1) Buy an AFC and another working MAF. Then using my existing chip get it tunned via the AFC. 2) Stick with the 1 MAF and dummy and get the chip mapped itself. What do people reccomend and have I missed a choice ? Either way, any reccomendations on who should do the mapping ?. I was thinking about taking a trip to holland to see Eric but have not spoken to him about this yet. I've also been told of a very good but very expensive place in London.

Well I've always used Magnetec 10 40 in my engine, I thought I'd read through this entire thread to see what I should be using now I have a modified engine, fook me I'm still no clearer. I think I'll just see if I can get a fully synthetic 10 - 40 / 10 - 50 and stick with that.

sticky valves or bad compression maybe ?. If you've tried averything else you should do a compression check.

Didn't know anything about it mate :(

speak to Jaffa. he has had it

IIRC they just pop out.

you bought a dodgy CD ?

Thanks mate. Lol, yeah it looks easy but the time it takes is because of the "fiddle" factor :)

Just saved yourself £80 ;)

LOL, love the response, made me chuckle ! Top man thanks Andy - You know you've just put a thought into my head about renaming the video link below my sig :)

I promised myself I wasn't going to spend any more money once I got it back, but it does need a few things which I plan to do. Suspension work Get it fine tunned and Mapped (depending on graphs from Dyno day). Tidy up and repolish any of the engine bay bits that have been sitting around for 3 years. Refurbish wheels Upgrade brakes again (looking at 8 pots now) - more power = need better stopping find and install amp so I can have my tunes back. Fix traction control (think it just needs to be set up correctly) Figure out why my remote start is not working. Fit engine splash guards, get clock fixed, get working lighter (purely for sat nav charging) Sort out under side of bonnet. Refit all bling

Unless you have a front mounted then I would say it's a pretty nice area exposed.

Check what model 300zx. Z31 is pre 89 model, Z32 is 89+ model.

Any more details on this ?. Link to a site with info maybe, location of meet and time of meet maybe ?