SMW1

There should be plenty of info on both here and the other 300zx sites in the states and AUS about DIY removals. AVI are easy to remove. EGR's are a littl emore tricky and you need a blanking plate. Idle is fine by removing these. You may want to think about removing your viscous fan and replacing with an electric, the fan it self is pretty heavy and freeing it will only improve your weight saving.

At last someone who is realistic ! I like you already. We've had too many people who have come online and said I'm buying a 300zx I will put a chip in it and be good for 500 bhp blah blah blah. It's good to get someone looking to take on a project and is realistic in his goals. In terms of BHP, I guess it tottaly depends on the dyno you use. But as an average, if you start with a strong engine, you would at a push be able to achieve the figures you have quoted without the need to upgrade your injectors. If you substitute injectors with after market intercoolers, you should be able to push 14 psi on stock injectors and turbo's without any problems. This should get you up around the 360 - 370 bhp figure. As a guide I hit the following figures at Thor (so the BHP is at the Hub not the flywheel or rear wheels). The mods I had at the time were: Stock internals, stock tubs, stock injectors, Howe Rad, Uprated oil cooler, Greddy SMIC's, Electric Fan (replaces viscous), lightened underdrive pulley, apexi induction & uprated exhaust with decat. 14.8 psi 350.4RWHP@6290rpm, 388.2ft/lb Torque@4594rpm If you do decide to go ahead with your project, It would be very interesting to see what 1/4 mile times you can get with all that weight saving. Welcome to the forum and good luck with your project :)

Hi guys, I was just wondering if we still get a trophy for car of the month. I've not recieved anything yet :(

You sure you don't have a loose rubber gator by the gear shift stick ? You'd be amazed at how much noice the gearbox makes. If the rubber gator around the gear stick is loose or incorrectly fitted you will get a whirring noise as you accelerate. It's easy to refit, listen out for it next time you drive as it may be something as simple as that.

If it is det it's probably just due to the hot weather we have had recently. Detonation is the result of the fuel / air heating up to such an extent that it tries to ignite before the spark is introduced. This will cause down pressure on the piston before it's ready. This will cause increade pressure on the pistons and the weak spot of the lander between the piston rings. As I've mentioned above, you need to make sure you are using higher octane petrol to reduce the risk of ignition before time, and also turn the boost down 1 psi to 13psi. Other options are to upgrade your rad / intercoolers.

If it's not speed related but rev related then yes it eliminates the brakes. Check the Drive shaft, prop's and rear diff as perviously mentioned.

This could be detontation. Does it sounds like static ? Or a bag of nails shaking. If it sounds like static it's det. (lower the boost in hotter weather, use 99 ron or V-max super pertol). Bag of nails ?. More than likely either your turbo's on thier way out or it could be the heat shields come loose. Any sign of smoke when you accelerate ?

Ahhhhh beaten to it by seconds :(

Repost :D. Always wanted to say that :)

I think that the problem might be is that just as the turbo's start spooling I have to change gear cause I don't want to exceed 4k rpm. Maybe if I let the turbo's spool for longer once I'm run in won't happen ?. I don't know I'm clutching at straws now lol. All I need to know is bascially... is it going to fook something and cost me more money :D

Yes !!! No need for a vid of my own now, this is exactly what it sounds like. Is this a problem ?. Why is it making this noise. I actually like it but if it's a problem I'd like to fix it.

I'd like to add to this thread also. Mark has always been around to help when ever I've been in the sh*t with my car. Always offering advise and if in a rare occasion he doesn’t know the answer he will useually find out and call me back before I find the solution myself. Top man, hats off.

I have not idea as I haven't met you yet, but I'll have a wild stab in the dark and go for number 6 :)

I was going to say it's probably elt squeel but then ou said it's from the back. I don't think bearings squeal, they start off as a knock and turn to a grinding sound. Check the level of your Diff oil and check around it for any leaks. it could be many thinks so you'll have to eliminate one at a time. Sticking pistons on the brakes causing the pads to squeel with the discs. Worn or rusty prop No diff oil in the rear diff Something loose and rubbing. If you can do it safely, put the car up on jacks and rotate the back wheels and see if you can find the source.

Thanks Mark, I just read that but it's a how to on sticking / non working BOVS. Mine work fine, I'm just getting an additional noise as well. As mentioed previously I'll try and get a vid so you can hear what I mean.

I'll have a look at the TT link, I'll also check the you tube vids, and if I get a chance I'll make a small vid of my own to see if I can capture the noise.

The chip is a Doolz twin pop, 555cc injector chip, so hopefully the fueling is ok. I'll check with Martyn to find out what PSI the actuators were set to open up on, is there a way of checking this now with them in place ?. If so how do I do this or is it a pain in the butt to do.

I can't check that link from work but I'll have a look when I get home. I've heard this noise a few times on a couple of the new VW golfs. I don't actually think it's a problem with the turbo's to be honest, I'm sure it's meant to do this. I meant I wanted to eliminitate the BOV sound and keep the acuator sound. Anyone familiar with the HKS actuators on JWT530BB tubs, should they be making a noise coming off boost or should they be silient ?. I may have a problem form what you guys are saying, hopefully this isn;t the case.

Now that I have HKS actutors on my new tubs. I'm really liking the noise that make when coming off boost. ** Edit been told this is actually turbo stall and not the actuators ** Is turbo stall a bad thing ?. If so how do I get rid of it ? The problem I have is that I not only get the "Tshhhhhhhhhhhhhhh" from the dump valves, I also get the "BerrrDerrBurrrrllllrrlllrlrllr" (you know the sound I mean). I know you can tighten up the SQL's to make them only go off at higher pressures, but can I tighen them up to the point where they no longer go off ?, If yes, and I do this is there any potential problems I now have.

I have a feeling that after the slating he got on there and the suggestion to actually buy a BOV noise generater. He may actually do one of two things. 1) Get rid of the Fake Inter-fooler 2) Buy a BOV noise generator

Guys, I'm a little worried at the moment. We have a club dyno day booked up for the 28th of this month. My Z is almost up to the 1st stage of running it in. It's almost done 500 miles with an oil/flter change done at 150 miles. the car has now done 400+ miles since the rebuild limiting at 3.5 - 4k rpm and running max boost of 4k rpm. I'll be doing an oil/filter change at the end of the week when it has done it's 500 miles where I'll be putting some decent oil in. Since the last oil change, the car has not burnt any oil at all (which I think it quite rare on new builds - hopefully this is a good sign). It's not lost any water or any fulid for that matter. The set up of the car has the potential to run at 21 - 24 psi (according to our technical wizz'd kids on here). Do you think I should push it to this level on the dyno day or keep it safe and low ?. I will be getting it mapped hopefully by DTA (holland) when I can get it organised, so their may be a road trip to Holland later this summer if anyone is up for it !.

The way the front sits it either needs a little lowering or it doesn't have an engine in it !

No probs decatting an N/A either, you may see slight gains in BHP but no downsides to it really.

That's a bloody good price mate. We bought lost series 1 2 & 3 for about £100 :(. We are watching both lost and hero's at the moment. If you haven't seen Hero's, then well worth getting the first series of that and watching the 2nd on TV. I rate it better than lost.

I'll set sat nav to avoid the m25 then :)