markstevens

Hey, how about a radical suggestion, Try It.

Exactly what make of parts are you running, ie chip, ind kit? Thanks.

Wet the floor too, keeps the dust down.....

Hope I am wrong by the way...good luck

IMHO if your engine is worn, as in bearings, the higher revs enable the oil pump to overcome the leak past the bearing, but when the eingine is going slow the pump cant generate enough flow to overcome the leak. This would also account for the rattles, lifters need oil pressure to work. Might also be worn pump, blocked filter (rare but possible) but I dont know really. Hence your symptoms???

Hey Xcapade, cool down, I put "LOL", so you would know I was messing about. I could have been seroius and said do a search..... LOL. No offence mate.

Cops are a waste of space, and like busses, never find one when you want one and then three turn up at once. And none of them will know what to do, unless you are in a racial minority, and then you get let off. Look out if your English/Welsh/Scotish though.

Drunk? Or just cant write too well? Lol...

Yes, but the Peugeot and Citreon are EXACTLY the same underneath, apart from the fluid suspension on a Xantia. A ZX is a 306, only cheaper, does not look as good, but has better trim. Engines, gearbox's brakes etc etc are the same. So if you buy a Citreon you get what your dad likes but cheaper. And nobody steals them.

Boring maybe but I had a GS called Harley.

I am fairly sure if you have a Mcgard the reverse thread idea will not work. I lost a key to McGard, thought "No Probs" I have my set of reverse thingies. They would not even scratch the McGards. However, as I said earlier. McGard will sort you out a new key from a photo I believe. They have a web site, phone head office, Europe somewhere, and they are VERY EFFICENT.

Is it not worth seeing a solicitor and getting some sort of line drawn in the sand, so everything from now on is yours/hers etc? I dont know but sounds a good idea. First hour is free I think

I absolutly agree, which is what I tried to say earlier. It makes me wonder how anyone can "repair" and not "overhaul" a box thats making metal filings. Just replacing the band, IF thats the problem, is asking for more trouble later on, and sometimes the trouble is as soon as you start driving the car. When I did autos I used to cut and reweld converters, never re balanced them and never had a problem. You have to see the way the metal gets crammed into all of the nooks and crannies to believe it. Well said that man.

I really really will not reply anymore. You win.

Look at Citreons, especially diesels, cheap and they can be very good. Xantia and ZX.

As many have said, I too have been there and it does get better. Mistake I made was not fighting hard enough, for every last little thing like she did. Best of Luck.

;-).......Look at, as in READ post number 9 from the thread starter. What does it say? Clutch. OK? :headvswal At this time My Lord I rest my case. But I reserve the right to recall witnesses at a later stage.

No, sorry I have to say one more thing, I have just looked at your web site. I quote "Getting it right first time, every time, for all our customers" that sure is some claim. And "The UK's leading automatic transmission specialist" I bet there are few who argue with that last one. You must be good.

Z master, as far as I knew this forum was for all of us, not just you, to give advice/help as we see fit. We are allowed to disagree, sorry to disapoint you on that point. You have no idea if I have any mechanical knowledge or not, to assume is remarkably short sighted. I actually spent several years doing nothing but automatics, but I not up to date with them. But the Z box is old tech. You seem to think you are important enough for me to criticise directly. No, I just dont agree with your views being the only option. If you really want to help you should allow for other views. Some of my comments were general, ie they apply to all autos. You seem to think putting "The End" means something? You are still deluding yourself, I can, and will reply as I see fit, regarless of your "The End". Or until the mods ask me to stop. And on that subject, please reply directly if you want to continue as I will not reply any further. Sorry to the guy who started the thread. But Z master, as you know everything what are the lottery numbers for next week. Me, I would have to guess.

Oh, and what am I doing? I made a point not to criticise you. However as I have a Z, and my brother, and his son are in the autobox trade I have spoken at length to them on this topic and I feel that my view is more accurate. It may not be, but I feel it is. You say the fluid is turned brown by the burning of the band? Well what is it that is on the band that does the contaminating? Paper,is what. Which is what is on the clutch plates. So how can you say its the band that makes the fluid brown, this is casued by burning band/plate linings. You say the metal filings are from the band rivets and the drum, could be, but it could just as easily be metal from the clutch plates. Also I doubt that the fluid temp is the cause of band failure, more likely lack of adjustment/too much stick. As for saying the clutch's last the life of the car you are wrong. Its very well know that the 3rd gear clutch is weak. DOnt get me wrong, I know you are trying to help. But, your last paragraph seems to be attacking me. Of which there is no need, justification or benefit. I am glad you are so well informed on auto's that you have no doubts at all with regard to this poor chaps problems. Just try and not get personal.

Z master, thats all well and good but I think you will find its the clutch thats gone. Having said that, replacing the clutch plates is also no big deal. BUT, then as you are so far "in" you may as well do the rest too. Biggest problem is properly cleaning out all of the muck, especially as it centrifuges in the converter. But also it will be throughout the valve body, so you will need to strip and clean that too, and the cooler(s). IF you dont clean the box/cooler/converter you may well find you have a pressure problem which in its self can damage the box again. Not trying to be negative, but you need to know whats what. Potentially anyway.

Keeping it in 2nd and driving it means all of those lovely bits of metal continue to spread themselves around your box, and they start to wear "hard parts", such as gear trains, bearing surfaces etc. This might mean when you strip it there is more costs as these part need replacing too. And these hard parts can be very costly

Does anyone know what type he has? As knocking a socket onto a Mcgard round locking nut might be a waste of time. If he can get it on at all. They are probably harder than the socket.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/z32/oe_pistons-rings-rods.html. This was kindly sent to me from Ryan at Ztech.

I have a set similar to the ebay ones, mine has 4 parts not just two, sto cover different sizes. These DO NOT work on top quality locking nuts as they are too hard for the "key" to cut into. However Halfords own brand, if they are, nuts are probably cheap rubbish, and often the ring that spins can just be chiseled off and then one of the "keys" used. But Halfords also sell the best lockers I have ever used, cant remember the name, durrhh, and if its those you have you may be in deep trouble. BUT, the manufacturer, I wish I could remember their name, will sell you a key if you send a digital photo of the locker and ID etc. HA, McGARD is the name.....Hope this helps