jimmer

:lol: 250psi and lashings of it !!

I have asked my AC Specialist whats available,They could be made but would want a serious amount of units ordered to justify the tooling costs etc.Condensors can be bought by size also and made to fit,Its the pipes that are a headache as they are metric and most A/C stuff is Imperial and has been for years.

I have just looked on my usual State side suppliers and noticed both are now listing the OEM TT A/C Condensor as NLA. Sad times indeed.As the car's age, it really is surprising how many people want luxury items working again. It will be a struggle now seeing as the condenser was one of the biggest culprits for gas loss. How many more parts losses can we as owners stand as these fantastic cars grow older :thumbdown:

Nick stop it !!! That is pornography chap, Tissues please somebody :whistling: Ti

And Richard apologised anyway !! Get over it fella

Stu have you got a rear main oil seal also ?

How have you checked for air leaks ?

Give Infinity a call Kev they will get you sorted

That is the OEM Harness indeed !!

Hi Chris.The best loom to go for is the 95 type manual as it will have plugs already for later injectors,A series 2 ptu and CAS unit.OEM ones can be bought at Z1

Chris ,If you plan on keeping the car swap the loom before its too late and they are obsolete.

I measured one today with a straight edge and feelers and it came back at .011".I have no idea if its been machined before though.

The flywheels are not flat. That has been skimmed wrong I am afraid

The first one i did took me hours and cut me too ribbons removing it,Such a satisfying job though knowing you are future proofing the car for many years.Anybody viewing this who has a sketchy loom should roll their sleeves up and get it swapped before they go obsolete.Top job Nick :cool2:

The best way to remove the rubber bushes is set fire to them using a plumbers blow lamp,Push the centres out after then hack saw through the remaining sleeve.

The rod you have bought is generic and probably fits another Nissan model also.If it has enough thread then cut some of the excess off it is not dangerous to do so.

Happy to help Chris,it has worked many a time for me in the past.

Chris you need to kick that clutch pedal like a ginger step son,It will knock the air back to the resovoir quicker.If you still have a small amount of air, a piece of wood holding the pedal down overnight works well.

No Anti Freeze again,I remember the coolant in the lwb it was horrific !

What was it Tom ?

I always found Skoda seats woeful.After all its based on a more expensive platform but cheaper so costs have been cut.After a 200 mile drive i could barely stand up my back was so bad !

Look at that battery tray ,Have pie n chips off of that :thumbup1:

Its those little touches Gary that make all the difference i find.Bit of a clean, some satin black on brackets etc :thumbup1:

It fits like a welly in a shoe box Lee ! it looks perched and wont sit flush with the boot edges,And in order to reinstate the 2 trims that clip on the boot lip you have to leave a gap by setting it further back, then the spoiler sits to far back it hangs over on the rear so the line that flows from the rear lamps into the spoiler ends up a step.

A braided line is readily available to replace that,However it may have cost you a master cylinder also.Cylinder bores wear over time and a lip can form inside.The loss of fluid causes the cylinder rubbers to travel past the lip which can flip them rendering it useless.If the fluid rises in the master when its pressed rather than drops its quite ightly its toast i am afraid Chris.Give it a try first and dont be too quick to write off the master when you struggle to bleed the system,And believe me you will it can be a pig !!! I use an Oil can thats soley been used for Brake fluid and back bleed the system from the slave pumping the fluid back through the system with the bleed points open.You will still have to bleed it the conventional way after but it gets the system filled quicker.