jimmer

What make are they,personnally i wouldnt trust them if they are chinese or cheap n cheerfuls,too vital a component.if they are cheap 6 months and they will be worn and clunking i assure you.Even the branded ones dont last on our roads.They are intended for tracks really.

Sound advice indeed if i do say so myself :thumbup1:

It probaly just needs bleeding properly,dont spend money on a new cylinder yet,if your moving fluid when the nipples open the master is ok,if you want to rid yourself of the aggro buy a one piece braided clutch line and fit that.it will bleed easy then.

I never disturb it Brian,just lift the motor and undo the compressor,cheaper and less hassle for me and the customer as often it leads to further problems in my experience.

It makes a massive difference,helps with torque and spooling,trust me it works.pita to fit though.

Thats rust prevention Jeff,and saves oil changes the constant top ups do the trick !!

14m ratchet spanner Howard on the rear bolt works ,do not undo the pipes unless the gas is already gone.Must pumps seize shortly after once re gassed due to lack of oil in the pump and the dryer filter will absorb moisture unless you 100% seal the system whilst its apart.leave the pump on until you lift the motor as Brian said then undo the last bolt.

your not friends with Jeremy forest are you Lol

boys it was a shocking week,lake was a metre higher than it should have been,fish still hadnt spawned,only 3 carp came out the whiole week,best i managed out of big girls was sodding bream,big bugger but that was it,rested my swim every day and baited different spots but no carp !! i wsnt happy.made 30 kilos of bait and took 20 home :mad2:

My mate took some pics so hopefully he will send them and i can get them on here bud.easy money aint the word Lol

Gotta love having a zed and these fads for school proms,just earned £100 for an hours work taking my mates nephew to his big night out !! Gave him the usual white knuckle ride after he asked is it as fast as a scoobie :glare: mmmm that was it i soon set him straight :gunsmilie:

ahhh my little message i left for when u finally get it mapped Lol,u were not supposed to see that now :laugh:

Its a classic symptom of piston ring land failure,check the breather elbow has not come off on the n/s rocker cover,if its in place do a compression test.the oil is pushed out he dipstick tube by boost pressure entering the crank case.

please do can we hold you to that ?

almost deffo a pipes come off somewhere,

Check your cranck angle sensor connection on the n/s of the engine.its almost certainly that.

multimeters are a waste of time,i dont know of any auto sparky that regularly uses one if im honest,unless you know the value of the item your testing then whats the point.Ok an injector may have 14 ohms through its coil,but its no proof its working is it ? and you should never use a meter to rely on when testing voltages.a testlight is far more reliable.

The ficd is purely to up engine revs when under load from the aircon etc.It basically is an on/off plunger that opens a drilling alowing excess air increase engine revs.If the idle valve value fluctuates it could be purely that the ecu is trying to compensate for an air leak and not the valve being faulty.

if it needs a clutch go sick Jeff !!

This is a great series guys and flys the flag for 300s,i wish more people would come along and give more support to these guys.id like to see a club stand at these events to show how proud we are of the car and its prowess in events like this.

So am i,i think,sure thats where James has booked me in,see you there Pete.

Hi Pete, Round 2 ALREADY !! see you there fella.looking forward to it.

if its not broke leave it,the common failure ptu myth is hardly relevant now 20 odd years later,mines the one it came with and its a 91 model.

Im stunned,Hes been on here since i can remember.Rest in peace fella.Their but for the grace of god go i springs to mind.Can anybody please shed any light on his passing ?

Imho if you opening up the engine,youll need to re ring it at least,if the pistons are good that is,if the budget wont stretch to forged pistons then get the bores measured if they are in tolerance then get some new Rock pistons from Z1,the bores will need honing for this to de glaze them so the new rings bed in,its a no brainer to restore compression with new rings or pistons and not do the heads as the youll get problems,if they are flat after removal have the valve faces and seats re cut so they seal correctly,the exhaust valve seats will be badly pitted with age so its a must.stock gaskets will be fine if your not chasing crazy power.Get the crank checked for size and ovality have some new shells put in.have any seals changed and get a new timing belt,water pump,thermostat and bridge hoses.At least then youll have some faith in it.The biggest power increase you can make aside tubs injectors etc is using larger diameter intercooler pipes.The stock ones are restrictive and dyno tests in the states have shown amazing gains by fitting them.Youll pick up quite a bit of torque and quicker spool with them.