General Discussions - 300ZX Related

Where's the best place to get a non silicone one (upper)? I've just been out for a drive but came home with steam billowing out! Should learn really not to drive it lol

I bought a 300zx 2+2 N/A this week from ebay, on the listing it said that there was a tapping noise, and sure enough there is, they last owner said this was due to it having a oil change and it started about a week after, someone had pointed out to him that the wrong oil had been used and that it needed its engine flushing and new oil and filter fitting. Annoyingly i cant tell what type of oil is in it, but I'm going to be doing a Oil and filter change anyway, the last owner said it might be a sticking valve. or tappets. My question is this. What is the likely hood its a sticking valve? Also I'm in need of a new interior, the one that's in it, has a h…

As most know i got the problems with my 300 was not sure wether to sell up or repair... well looks like i have got meself a manual conversion kit :) so looks like this car is gonna be a keeper which is very unusal for me and i really am looking forward to it being a manual too just gotta get it fitted.. then sort the turbos and cam belt change guessing i am gonna put it into a garage as its coming up to winter:rant: and its someone on the club thats has helped me out.. just waiting for him to get back to me (bazza) cheers buddy

Guys Had another crack tonight at removing bits to get the engine out on my manual TT. Would really appreciate the following answerd as it will really help with learning the ropes. 1. Do we need to split the engine from the gearbox to remove the engine?. Clearly we need to undo the prop shaft etc if not. But will it all come out in one piece. 2. Does the starter definately need to come off or can it just be dis connected? 3. Is it easiest to undo the exaust from underneath beneath the turbos? 4. Is it easier to undo the engine mounts from above or below. Any tips will be really helpful as we are doing this on axel stands so room is tight…

While refurbing my rear subframe I've found that the ball joints on both the lower arms are fubar'd. Can these be pressed out and replaced or do I need to get new arms?

i regrettably sold my lwb tt a couple of months ago:headvswal but i've missed it so much that i'm doing a 700 mile round on saturday to collect my new one. it's a 1990 white lwb tt and i can't wait:nana2::nana2::nana2: i'll post some pics up when i get it.

Was it you, nice clean white TT, 18" Wheels, rear uk bumper???

right, only got my Z32 a week ago, no strange noises, its auto TT '93, but '03 import, done 52,000 miles, but noticed its started to have a slight clicking noise from under the bonnet, its in time with the revs, not sure its loud enough to be a bearing as my old s13 went through 2 engines due to bearing failure, (ca18det engine are crap and i was putting stupid power through them lol) its low millage, since ive had it its been drive 500miles redlined once for 0-60 timing but not taken over 4K other then that, was told these engine were strong, all the fluids are at the right levels, its never overheated, (was a mates car before i got it) it too low millag…

After a little discussion, i decided to do a simple and short write up on illuminating the rear bumper reflector. If yours is like mine and is a sealed unit, there are 2 ways (possibly more) to get a bulb or led in there. Bear in mind an led is directional, unlike a filament bulb, so IMO you wont get the best light from an led in the normal bulb position, so go for a standard white 501 filament bulb for that position. you will have to drill a hole in the plastic backing, be careful not to push too hard as you could hit the red reflector and possibly crack it (job ruined) so take your time with the hole cutting. You can use a 501 bulb holder, you will h…

Spotted a silver z driving through Dollegau (sp?) in Wales, think it was on saturday evening (19th). Anyone from here?

I just wondered how does a 300zx TT auto (mine) compare to my mates m3? its a E36 standard m3 i know the m3 is lighter, not been in it yet he had just got it ( i know a load of ya are gonna be biased) i am not going to race or anything just wondered how they stack up?

Hi Guys, I have been looking for sometime now for a VERY GOOD uk car, if anyone knows of one coming to the market soon or is considering selling there own vehicle, please PM me....... cold hard cash waiting for the right car :hyper: H

I'm pulling the plenum off today, just wondering, what else would you recommend doing whilst I've got it off? And are there any walkthroughs for em? Cheers geezers....

Water got into the connector and when i went to start the engine i heard a sizzle and saw smoke from the ecu :( So i need one asap. Beiing my daily drive and all....

Just thought i'd post a picture of the zed i owned some years back, if anyone on here has it , get in touch...

Ive only ever driven manual zeds and am looking for another car now. Have been offered a swb TT- t-top auto, apart from being an auto its exactly what ive been looking for. Trying not to open a can of worms but is it worth keeping it as an auto or would you change it to manual and if so how much would the conversion cost????. Im pretty good with cars but never done the swap before so would not want to attempt it myself or at least not with out help. Cheers Craig

Hope you have a great day mate :D :duffer:

Happy birthday mate, hope you have a great day :D :duffer: :duffer: Isaac :cool:

Saw a nice clean NA heading towards ladybrook around 10.30pm Wasnt in my zed though.

I've got a s1 rear subframe from my old jdm. I've also got the ES rear sub frame and suspension bushes, powertrix adjustable camber set, whiteline ARB and adjustable drop links. The intention was to refurb the subframe on my S2 UK. Now I don't know whether to do the UK sub or the JDM one :confused: The UK is a '93 so it's newer but has done 130K miles, the jdm is an '89 but only done 70k. The UK diff is a newer model and has a separate oil cooler but is as rusty as hell. Both diffs sound fine and rotate freely. What do I do?? Help

First time I've posted in the "Advice Section". It's more of a chance to kick myself in front of my peers and for me learn a damn good, (expensive), lesson for the future. Here's my advice. Always get respray work done AFTER your MOT. ??????????????? I hear. Sills, rust, skirts, hammer, wire brush, filler...... and then pay for the same paint and shoot twice. Genius Consider me naive and hasty Consider yourselves advised I am expecting, "Well isn't that obvious?" and "Always do mate", so spare me and hope they approve my overtime. Seeya peeps and peepesses.

Hi im after some technical advice with the turbo inlet! The turbo inlet measures about 3inches in dia. My question is as im having pipework made up to fit does the pipe work have to be 3inch in dia to the turbo? Would i gain any advantages in doing this? Knowing that the standard pipework is around 2/2.5dia would it be easier to just adapt the original pipe work to my new turbos? Cheers Dan

Relatively new to the electrickery world, thought I'd play about and create a circuit for a feature I'm making and fitting to the Z... Its a bit under wraps at the mo but I'm struggling with one bit... Basically, I've got a switch making a solenoid go one way, but how do I reverse the polarity to make it go the other way?? :confused:

well here you go chaps just seen this :slap: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4x-Brake-Caliper-Cover-for-Nissan-200SX-240SX-280-300ZX_W0QQitemZ320426615213QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item4a9aea21ad&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Hi, I would love to make my NA go faster. What's the best way to do this WITHOUT turbo charging, i.e. keep the engine normally aspirated? Thanks.