General Discussions - 300ZX Related

;) Does anyone know the part number for the centre bearing on the prop, from courtesy.....? cheerz Jon......:)

Dont know why but got caught short and had to re-fuel at morrisons, normally has optimax to "drink" but i had little option than to put their LRP in the tank so just stuck a tenner in the tank, to be safe as i was almost empty, but get this, it absolutely loves it:D , im not kidding its smoother, doesnt feel as grough and seems to accelerate far quicker and smoother with far more pull and instant throttle response, almost unbelievable, either this fuel is better, or the optimax from the garage i go to has problems as i have since filled up again at another morrissons and all is still well, very well. And as if thats not good enough here is the best bit, an extra 40 miles …

Who said these were hairdressers cars. Was quite surprised - had to go to 140 to see him off. He looked like he was trying to come back and then gave up!! Dont you just love going past new or nearly new cars in old J or K reg cars - I should imagine they get a bit pizzed off. This was all on the private test track by the way. Mark

To give her a good home...... 1990 Z32 TT red, T-bar, black leather, fully loaded, HKS gear De-catted, 4 wheel steer, CD, low milage, lovely car....... One UK owner.. Please come and make me an offer that i canot refuse ive got to sell call Andy : 01793 887532 Swindon.

Does anyone know what size bolts I'd need to put an engine onto an engine stand safely? Cheers Vijay

Hi All I'm New to this site so please excuse me if I seem a little dim Problem is that i've been offered a unregistered 300zx jap import that been partley stripped(engine brakes diff some interior and I had the auto box for my car) and the guy who's car it is said I could have the rolling shell for next to nothing So my question is has anyone plonked a chevy small block in one and what problems did they experiance along the way

Hi, I got a brand new set of HKS BOVS for sale ( still boxed) for the Z, comes with fitting kit and extra BOV filters for different sounds. cost £500.........will except 350. any takers cheers, Darren

Anybody know how to get into the installers options of the wizard software for the clifford alarm systems as I can only get into the user options, reason being , the original installer of the alarm used the headlight relay button on the remote connected to the ignition as a basic turbo timer and this is originally set to 30 seconds and I want to alter it to a longer time.:confused:

Hi all, After 7 hours of biblical effort, finaly got the rear hub off the car to change the wheel bearing. But theres naf all wrong with it! Checked all the bushes ball joints etc for wear/play - alls fine. What else could cause about 1/2' of play in the rear n/s wheel? PS. What a job:( you have to take off shed loads of stuff to release the hub. Thanks harve

I've got one of them Z centre twin cone induction kits & was wondering what the internal diameters of the elements are. mine seem to have been glued onto the induction pipes so I don't really want to take them off yet but I'm thinking of getting a few K&N cones for it so I don't have to replace them again.

It seems doing the o2 diagnostic, my left o2 sensor is pretty much stuck with the light on (one write up claims that's rich, the other says lean). Could this be part of the cause of problems revving over 5500rpm? Is it ok to disconnect it/them to see if it makes any difference or is this likely to cause problems?

Hi, I've seen various clock fixs and it appears I have a different clock to the US cars? The clock here: http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/clock/clock.html is part 25820 30P00 and mine is 40P00. I don't have a top and bottom board and the resistors marked 181 aren't in the same places. I would go ahead and replace these, but I can't work out why I'm getting a reading of 89ohms on the meter (exactally that on both of them)... why isn't it around 180ohms - they can't both have broken and gone to the same resistance? Also, if I had a 200ohm resistor would it work just as well in place of the 180ohm or is it too high? (Yes, my problem is the cloc…

Has anyone used one? I am doing a distance of 1300 miles during June(UK to Greece), with mine and another two cars(a supe TT and a Celica GT4) and i was wondering if they will be ok for communication between the 3 cars. Is there another cheaper solution than that? I used some expensive walkie talkie things before but the interference from the car electronics was so big, that i couldn't here my mate that was in car about 20 feet away from me. Maybe it was the certain handset's fault. Any suggestions?

Andy - thanks again for sorting out the boost gauge. All it took was a phone call and Andy sorted it (vac pipes had been put on wrong in the past) Just been for a blast and gauge goes to about +10.5 or around mid mark between 7 and 14 Owe you a drink at billing if you are there :) Mark

Newbie to the group seeking advise. 1989 Japan T top Fairlady Z, 3litre twin turbo - 150,000 KMs When I start the engine there is a whiring type noise which disapears after about 5 mins (convertor side of gearbox). It drives fine for a short period, then the drive comes and goes for no apparant reason....if I turn off and restart the motor then drive is restored?? It goes through the gears and performs as expected until the drive is lost, then it's just like it's stuck in neutral. Checked the oil level which is OK. There is no obvious bangs or clanks. Any advise or help would be appreciated before I take the car to the service area. Has anyone …

And I don't mean gay bloke ( no offence if your a gay bloke ). I'm on about that switch to the left and slightly in front of the gear lever (auto). It looks a bit like a cigarette with an up & a down symbol at the side of it. I have no hand book so I don't know all the things yet. Incidently, it has been disconnected. Also incidently, if you are gay please do not be offended. I'm beginning to wonder if the gay thing has been a good idea? :)

This is my first post, does any1 know where I could get a Z32 AFM from. I've been looking for a while but can't find one. Cheers

As i've blown up all the speakers in my Zed, i need some advice on new ones!! What sizes are they? I was thinking of getting some Hi-Fi speaker cones (brother works at Audio T, massive discounts!) and setting up some serious sounds!! I have a 200W 12" JL Audio Sub and a Kenwood AMP KAC-848 so i can set the cross-overs up ok. Dan

Not good news for me unfortunately. Just had a phone call from my mechanic, who has had the car all week and done numerous tests on it. He says the problem with my car misfiring at low speeds is not a fuel or oxygen related problem !!!! So not only have I just wasted money on an injector and gaskets that I bought from Nissan (less than £200, but it all counts). He says that it's a mechanical problem which effects the whole left side of the engine (i.e. 2, 4 & 6). He is putting it down to a burnt valve (exhaust maybe). But he has recently lost a mechanic so the job is too big for him at the moment. He is a top bloke and has not charged me a penny which …

Has traction control ever been an option on Zeds? It seems to me it would have been a sensible idea. How easy would it be to fit? I've just had a scary moment in mine 60mph in the wet on a straight bit of motorway, I gave it a bit and the car suddenly wasn't pointing straight anymore. I let off and all was well again but what a heart stopping moment. There cant be too many cars out there that can spin the wheels at 60!! Regards Rod

Just wondered if anyone knows much about how it works. Its the stock one - but don`t work in fact never has. There is plenty of boost as the car does 0-60 in 5 to 6 secs. The gauge itself works and the sensor unit that feeds it works as I have had a syringe on it and it goes + and - ok. Am I right in thinking that when engine is idleing gauge should read minus and when boosting should read positive? My gauge just stays in the centre. Have checked vacuum pipes and all the ones I can see seem to be connected ok. Has anyone ever come across this problem? No doubt something very simple but damn annoying when you can`t find it Cheers Mark

On my J spec import, there are two lots of warning lights on the left of the steering wheel and one lot on the right. My question is what do the ones on the right do? In the 4 months I've had the car none have come on. Are they opporational? The drivers handbook give a list of things which have warning lights, but no picture showing where they are. Most of the ones on the left come on, though there are some blank spaces. Please put my mind to rest!

Can any of you shed any light on this one ?? The ambient temp display was showing negative numbers this evening whilst I was out on a run. I can't remember exactly which ones but think it was something like -32 and -86... So whats that all about then ?

My headlamps, sidelights, foglights and rear lights have all suddenly stopped working!!! I checked the fuses in the relay box and they are all intact, the relays are still clicking when I turn the light switch on and off, is there anything else I can check? I have looked at what I think is the fusible connection box at the rear right hand side of the engine bay and these also appear OK. I put a voltmeter across the terminals of the headlamp fuse sockets in the relay box but could not get a reading with the lights switched on. Is there a common fuse somewhere that I have overlooked? I have checked the online manual mentioned in these forums but have not had much luck…

I've got an auto 90 tt auto import still using a kmh speedo, and it was fine and dandy up until recently. when the auto switch is in 'a/t' position, it won't change up into second.If i put the switch in 'hold' its ok. So I foolishly decided to put an autobox additive in with the atf. The result? I now have no overdrive (ie i have to cruise in 3rd gear) . But....if i'm cruising at about 55mph the revs will drop to a normal level if i take my foot off the accelerator for a few seconds. Another side effect is that when i boot it in 'power' mode, power kicks in for a split second then revs really high without accelerating, yet when i floor it out of power mode …