General Discussions - 300ZX Related

as above, need some close up.. mine doesn't really close properly and as going over bumps it moves.. not a proper close and is cracking a bit look's like it's had filler on it.. so i don't know what's up with mine if it's ok, so i need close up pics from behind please :) matt@ljgibbsandpartners.com thank's alot Matt

Here are some pics of when I did this: Basically I did the whole hog, removed ALL hydraulics and lines, solenoids etc. 1) All the bits to do this job + cambelt change 2) TT vs NA pump - more than twice as big and heavy! 3) TT Tank and pump inlet modded and inlet fitted to NA pump 4) Rack vs Eliminator 5) Eliminator Fitted, notice poly diff bushes need to be modified: 6) Space!! 7) 25kg of unecessary rubbish!

Would these bolt straight onto the Z? I keep searching ebay for 300 wheels but there doesnt seem to be that many advertised - if at all. Could I buy some skyline wheels and would they bolt straight on? Ive seen some wheels with an offset of 45mm - I know ours are meant to be 35...42? Does this mean they would clear the front calipers? Ta

Hello, anyone know where to get a good and cheap! hicas eliminator been quoted 210$ shipped from the us, alos does the bar eliminate all the actuators ? any advice gartefully recieved

I am trying to identify an annoying "creak" from the front drivers side. Previous posts indicate it could be the upper link arm. Is the ultimate test jacking the car up and trying to rock the wheel from top to bottom ? Can the link arm still be responsible for the creak even if there is no play ? How hard are the bushes to install ? Do you need a press or can it be done in a heavy duty vise? Thanks John

Hi All, My tempature guage is not working. Am woundering how to take off the engine temp sensor, it looks like it need a spanner to take it off. Is it simple as that? So I can give it a clean. Cheers, Alastair.

Took the headlamp panel off my 300zx today for the first time to have a look at the induction kit, noticed what looks like an oil cooler directly below it in front of the fan. Is that standard on Jap TTs or has someone added it?

is it vital to use optimax as the nearest shell garage is 30miles away nightmare,any1 else have this problem!!coz by the time iv got the fuel half a tanks gone and its not like u can stock up on fuel like bread and milk!!any ideas

in need of some new pads and discs what can i get for about £200 or less that arnt to bad mine are useless and couidnt stop a skoda!!and what site is best for them!!cheerz

Had my heart set on a Manual UK TT, but have been driving a nice Honda Accord 2.2 Auto (stop laughing :nono: ) recently, and found auto's were not as bad as I though (i.e. - total and utter rubbish). Basically wondering a few things about the auto: - cos the gears change themselves, does that mean it protects the gearbox quite a bit, or can it still get a fair bit of abuse? - With Z Auto's, is there still a delay from when you put your footdown to the car zooming off in the background (apart from traffic lights, lots of fun :) )? - Will the Auto's work in a way that will save me fuel? i.e. does it select the most fuel economic gear, or the most pwerful one? Will…

JUST BEEN ON EBAY(AMERICA) AND NOTICED THERE ARE 2 TYPES OF IGNITION KEY. VALET/MASTER. THING IS WHEN I GOT THE CAR I ONLY GOT THE RED VALET KEY. WHATS THE DIFFERENCE?? AND IF THERE IS A BIG DIFFERENCE HOW WOULD I GET A MASTER KEY CUT? :rolleyes:

hi. hope somone can help me. It all started when my main interior light blew. When changing it there was a spark.i put a new bulb in and it still doesn't work. I checked the fuse and all was ok. That is not the confusing part..... now when i get in the car the light that warns you the doors are open stays on and the digi clock goes off. When i switch the map lights the clock comes on and the light on the dash goes off. Also my stereo now doesn't work. As i said i checked all the fuses and they are ok. Have i damaged a relay somwhere or could i have caused an earthing fault. I cant work it out because the power is at every instrument but it then seems to fade away in ab…

Only cost me £330 delivered ;) Just need the time to fit it now! :hyper: Has anyone got any advice for fitting one of these? i.e where's the best place to stick the solenoid box? From looking at the SBC & 300Z manuals I need to connect the input of the solenoids to the small outlets from the hard pipes (from turbo), the output goes to the turbo actuators & the pipes that go to the stock solenoids should be blocked off. Am I about right with this? Cheers, Shaun :cool:

Hey all! I need to know of any cheep but half decent bodyshops to get rid of a few dents and a full respray in the South East Essex area. Getting embarrised driving my lovely Z with dents in her. :cry:

has anyone on here done this and if so how succesful, howmuch and how long? thanks

does anyone have or know where i can get a steering wheel hub kit that will work with the hicas? i have just bought one that is supposed to be for the 300 and the connector on the back is totally different. if i remove the hicas sensor the hub will fit but the horn sounds every time i turn the wheel!

Quick question if the above error codes are permantly present I presume that the car will be in permanent safety boost 34 = det sensor 42 = Fuel temp circuit Ryan

Hi folks, not sure if this will interest anyone on here, but here goes! For those of you that may want BOVs, but dont want to pay the 300+ that it costs see below! Me and a friend of mine fitted some Apexi BOVs to his Z the other day, and it ran like poo, anyway, it turned out one of the BOVs was faulty and sticking open a little bit, letting air out/in and freaking everything out, so they are been sent back. Anyway, after taking them off and putting the Re-circs back on, I suggested to him that I thought of a cheaper way to fit dump valves (all he wants them for is the whoosh noise, ricey, but his car). So heres what you do, although you need to be runnin…

Anyone tell me what the cheapest options are for repairing leaky turbo seals? I hear that I might as well get the turbos re-done or replaced at the same time and I was wondering what the options might be without spending a fortune. All helpful suggestions welcome.

Following my turbo seal disaster of last weekend which has temporarily halted my wide-arch project and new intercoolers depending on the total cost...the car is going in to get the engine removed, the turbo seals replaced and the turbos reconditioned in two weeks time. I've asked the garage that is doing it to replace the PCV valves whilst they're at it, and check all hoses and replace as necessary. Anything else sensible I should get them to go whilst the engine is out of the car and life is relatively easy? Cheers

Strange problem after going sideways and up a kerb at the weekend. Had the car on a ramp and 4 wheel aligned and everything ok. Checked everything - ok. When she's cold it doesn't seem to want to go into gear at all. When it's in gear it seems to be creeping foward like the clutch isn't clearing properly. Could the impact have caused this? Doesn't seem to be any damage underneath. After she's warm seems to almost fall into gear. Is this air in the clutch fluid system? Or low fluid? Does anyone have a pic of where the clutch fluid reservoir is located? Cheers Ivan

full kit and wheels with high spoiler driving past grimsby collage today ??? :bow:

if the USD gets much better, we'll all be doing these as part of a service!!! http://store.yahoo.com/ginnmotorsports/gms.html :dance:

right i have this problem if i accelerate from a low speed i get a poping sound (could be Det! :( ) from the zorsts, the car also will not pull even thou the boost gauge is showing positive boost! now this is the interesting part it dont do it all the time! only sometimes. Could this also be connected with the whisle that i can hear from the engine? could it be a leak in the inlet before the turbos? Someone must be able to help me! please? P.S. running stock boost. and ECU shows code 55 all clear Mathew

i only just got car and first off started car this morning idled to about 2000rpm few secs l8r clouds of white smoke from exhaust when oil temp reached normal ,revs went down to 900rpm and no more smoke was noticeable after that driving was fine any help,gurgling soung on tickover but i think thats the reed valves is this curable the white smoke that is!!