Steve-o

Hehe, yeh the sticker has to go, you'll be a lot quicker at it second time round tho cause you wont be worried about breaking stuff lol. I had some stainless style dials I was going to fit, but it would be att OTT now i've done the surrounds and stuff in silver while I was waiting for the dials so I sent em back. (theres a piccie somewhere on general about it says interior done or something like that). One cool thing or so I thought it was a while ago was to change the bulbs behined the clocks, did that ages ago but the bulbs faded and needed to be changed, so this time I changed the bulbs with many diff couloured bulbs gives a cool rainbow style effect all over the dials now!

Cool ill give you a buzz mate

Yeh sounds pretty sweet, the back cans are the only silencers on the system, the rest is straight through, cats etc all removed. I'm actually going to remove the back cans and just opt for a 3" bellowed to a 4" toward the back (straight tube no silencers), the back coxes clamp onto the rest of the zorst so I can chop and change the easily enough. Only reason i'm doing this is for the odd track day etc just cause I removed the square boxes the other day and it sounded dirty as hell.

Oh yeh nearly forgot run a diagnostic on it see what it comes up with; http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/autodiag/autodiag.html Sounds a bit stupid, but it does work you'll be suprised.

Did they change the transmition fluid correctly is there a leak? sounds like there might not be enough pressure on the lines, and thats why its changing laggy although that said this is a complete guess and could be totaly wrong lol. When you put your foot down does it seem like it slips before engaging / changing.

You can get 6x9's in the front and rear, without too much hastle, but that might fall into your over the top catagory. IMHO any speakers the original size sound rubish, you just cant get a balanced sound from them, I tried listening to loads before giving up and fitting 6x9's all round. If you do want to fit 6x9's in the rear, you just take the old ones out, pop the covers, remove the speaker, then unbolt the metal mounting brackets underneath. This gives you loads more room in the pods, just take a cutting tool, mark the size in the pod for a 6x9 then cut away, pop the 6x9's in with new covers and all and bobs your uncle. I drilled direct into the plastic as it was plenty strong enough to hold them, then i just cut a ring out of insulation to stop the sound leaking where you screw it down tight (the same shape / size as the speaker surround so you cant see it). Sounds mint, you can do similar in the front, take the door card out remove original speaker and grills, unbolt old metal speaker brackets on door, then cut a new one from MDF or something similar that will suit the magnet of a 6x9 but with mounting holes etc in same position (so it screws back on the door ok) then you can mount the 6x9's from the inside part of the door card nicely, and have nice new grills showing too instead of them old ones.

p.s sounds like a long job but its not too bad I guess should take you about 30mins to an hour to have it all out and back together, (but then theres the time to do what ever your doing with it on top) I can do it all in about 15mins but I've done it a fair few times now. If you want any piccies shout me and ill try and get some

If there is away i'd like to know to would be well handy, as the only way I know is by taking everything appart. Anyways heres how incase you cant get hold of Stuart, 1 - Remove the two phillips Screws under the top part of the housing (that surrounds clocks etc) one on the left one on the right, you'll need a stubbyish phillips to get in there. 2 - Remove the top cover of the clocks and dash, this should just lift forward and off 3 - Remove the two phillips screws on the bottom of each of the control pods, (the air con one and the lights one on each side) the screws are located right under them toward the front 4 - The front part of each pod with the buttons all attached should now be loose, lift them out and upward to unclip them, then remove the connectors on the back. You should now be able to remove the two pods, push the connectors you just took off through the whole at the back of the housing so its easy to remove later, the hazzard light one I couldnt get to from the back, so I undid the two screws that holds it on to get it free then removed the connector on that one. 5 - Unscrew the two brass screws at the bottom of each each pod housing, they are inside toward the bottom, and any others you see fixing it to the metal bracket behined (from memory cant remember if there are any more) There will be two screws holding it on from a metal bracket that the plastic surround is screwed to, so undo those two, they are located centre top of the clocks. 6 - Once all fixing screws are out, pull the plastic surround, should unclip from the bottom part of the dash, then remove the two clocks connected to the warning build lights at the bottom. 7 - Now the lot is free, so remove it. 8 - The clock part should now be exposed. Undo one phillips tucked into both bottom corners of this pod 9 - unclip the two connecting wire blocks from both top corners. 10- Now the clocks will move, tilt the pod up and unclip all connectors on the back (remembering where they go of course!) 11- The gauge pod will be free so take it outta the car 12- First look at the rear of the pod, there will be several plastic clips that is part of the clear plastic front holding it on. Get a blunt object and push these down one by one whilst gently pulling at the front plastic cover, once all freed the front will come off. 14- You are now at the front of the clocks and can do what you like, however, if doing anything to the clock surround I would recomend you take it off so you dont damage the clocks whilst playing with it. 16- At the back of the clocks, there are two tiny brass philips screws on the bottom of the setup, toward the front, undo these two, be careful not to damage the membrain that they are going through, take them out, they are attached to two metal brackets that hold the black cover to the dialls on. 15- at the front of the clocks there are several black plastic clips much the same as the ones you pressed to take off the clear plastic cover, push these down one by one whilst putting a little pressure on the back to get them started, then it should pull off. 16- You got the clocks now fully exposed just sat in the rest of the housing, so you can play with the dial surround all you like 17- Assemble all in reverse order. I think thats about it, dont think I missed anything

Sweet done it, looged in and it said server comming down for an hour lol, good timing! i'll get on there and have a go at 1 when its back up!

Done it mate, went to bed last night had a nasty head, whats this about the free account I signed up on the site but cant find where to get a pass?

it was sat up duffs for about 6 months cause Jay had big plans for it, but then he went and bought a westfield and so nothing came of it. Thats how it looked now, it was orangey rotting colour on the back when I bought it with no paint and just primer, also had a big RIP on the back that I think duffer wrote on it lol.

Yes mate JayPSC's old car

Good idea matey, never thought of that! there was a cream one for sale at work the other day for about 40 squid

IMHO under 4k = shoddy car, I would expect to still pay over 5k for a standard UK Z in good nick off an old boy who has looked after it. For a modded one, that is in very good condition with FSH and has not been neglected I would see 6k-7.5k Recently though a few of my friends have been buying Z's after falling in love with mine, the first few we saw were all priced over 6k and were absolute dogs, smokey, ratly, shaking things that drove as poor as they sounded. The problem is you get the odd barry who buys one for 2.5 - 3k rags the shit out of it for a few months, and then tries to sell it for 6k cause he sees others going for that price, to people like my mate who dont know about Z's he would have picked the first shine over shit he see if someone hadnt been there telling him to walk away. Another chap bought one for 3k I know and proceded to take the piss out of how much mine cost until it blew up and he couldnt afford to fix it one month after buying it :S

Cool will do matey, looks a bit special, I loved elite on the amiga it truely was awesome at the time. Funny thing was I played it on an emulator not too long ago and somehow I was disapointed, someone took away those class graphics, wire 3d and sound and replaced it with awful colours and low bitrate sound lol. I hate it when that happens.

lol now i sound like a t*** cause jock had already responded to this post while I was typing, i'll get me coat.....

Dont get excited I replied cause I have honestly no idea at all about this, I was just going to say that I would check twin turbo net for that answer, try a search on it it usualy kicks stuff up for me that no one on here knows.

sorry accidently pressed enter lol, as I was saying, sounds like your fire wall may be blocking cookies that the site wont allow the new window to open unless it slaps a cookie on you, otherwise your ad blocking could be cranked right up to allow no pop ups, and any other window than the main IE one popping will be blocked.

Sounds like your fire wall is blocking cookies

1 year and 3 months, but that is amazing for me, I usualy change my car every three to 6 months max. Paid 5k, it needed a respray at the time, had no MOT or TAX, four bald tyres and a leaky master cylinder, oh and some of the interior was in bits!! but I loved it, knew its history and prev owners as went with them to buy it when it was stock so didnt mind.

Ahh fook it took the plunge lol, screenies looked good so gonna try it, no harm if its free, gonna take about an hour to dl.

I heard of this, I been meaning to have a look for a while, although for the past couple of years i've been into playing planetside, Unreal torney and now Star Wars Galxies, although thats getting borring now. I played that X2 the threat, total elite style game but crap as its not online and not even multiplayer, if it was it would have been fantastic. Dont like to play pc games too much now though, they swallow too much useful time in RL.

Oh yeh paul forgot to answer part of your question I mis read it lol, the stuff on my car was about 170 for 1 conolly hide, other than that its 3M spray glue and a tube of bostik. I guess you could get cheaper leather, mine wasnt ideal it was way to thick to stretch in some places.

Hehe unfortunatly not, good idea tho mate. I think the cable is stretched beyond all use TBH, last MOT it was at about 5% of what it should have been. They still passed tho cause of the parking brake on the auto lol. I chaged all the pads and the ones for the handbrake were fine, so it must be the cable I cant think of anything else. I'll get round to changing it sometime soon, I doubt if its been touched in the 12 years the car has been around! Steve

Yeh I took all of the interior parts out and sprayed em up with chrome effect paint. The centre bit wasnt too bad I had to sand it down for a fair while though to make it smoother as its all ripley isnt it. The other centre peice was ok, just unbolted all the bits off the back and did that. The worst was around all the dials, cause it had to all come out, the top part, the controls the surrounds everything, and getting it appart was a pain in the arse too, but it's turned out ok. The gear stick and handbrake are cut and shaped from chrome piping off of an old scooter of mine lol, and the plate on the back of the stick I ground out of a stainless plate, it's gonna have a Z ettched in it. The leather retrimming was ok, just ripped all the tweed off, then put it on the back of the hide drew round it and cut it all to shape, then i stretched it over, used 3m spray on the back, then super glue round the edges. For the glove box etc I unscrewed everything, pulled the leather round glued and screwed it. It was time consuming but was not as bad as I thought. And the steering wheel boss cost me 0 lol, I was well chuffed, took about five hours to make one though but Hicas and everthing works fine and it looks good! fook paying 110.00 for one! Steve