silverbullet

doing this will not adjust the timing of the turbos, as said by 300_zedx, you can not adjust the timing, fitting boost jets (mig welding tips) or an EBC will keep the waste gates closed for longer or can be adjusted to suit taste allowing you to control the amount of pressure they pump into the engine. you can get turbo timers but they have nothing to do with power or performance.

thats all i used, it's so easy to do

i got mine from a boot lid off an old clio.

they are enkei's i changed them as they were looking tired and i wanted a bigger foot print, new one's are 9's on the front and 10's on the rears, plue my new brakes wouldnt fit under the enkeis ;)

http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=378197&postcount=1

oh yes, tried it with one but the side that had it on was always slightly higher when shut. it was so much easier to work on the engine :)

nice work, exactly how i had mine

i've changed mine :D

that looks great buddy, i must say, you sure have a nak of bring the old zed back into the 21st centuary. it's going to be on good looker when it's all finished

even if they were a 5 bolt flanged unit, i would'nt use them for the fact that they are oil cooled only, with the tubs sitting so low, they need as much cooling as possible in these cars. stay away bud and buy from a propper zx parts dealer

it's quite straight forward, i removed both valves, replaced them with tapered grub screws, then linked the two front intake rocker breathers together, blocked the rear breather on the passanger exhaust rocker and fed the side breather on the same rocker to a catch tank along with the linked front breathers. what i will say though, and what i am going to change is the exhaust breathers, i would suggest putting the breathers in the same place as the first link (orange rockers) just to stop the catch tank filling with oil when cornering

no worries, just to add. the first link is actually a PCV breather relocation, it still uses the PCV valves the second link is showing you how to change the valves neither delete or bypass them. but as i said, you csan delete them all together ;)

ive been running without PCV's for quite a while now with no problems. always thought putting dirty spent oily gasses through the intake was a crap idea but, you must vent the crank case through a catch tank or similar

you wont get much oil out of the lines if you're just taking the senders off. it will drip out at a slow rate, you probably won't even notice a change on the dip stick

it will only work with stiff coilovers and correct geo settings. if you remove the rear ARB then the arse end will naturally "roll" into a corner allowing more grip on the rear and producing under steer which can be easly controlled with a little throttle through the bend. it's not to everyones taste and behaves so differently to how a rear wheel drive car should but, once mastered, can get you round a track pretty quick! so, in affect, the rear coilovers are taking over the job of the ARB but, are allowing each rear wheel to work inderpendantly. the whole car must be setup correctly i.e. camber, caster, toe and corner weighted for it to perform correctly. caution... you can't just disable the roll bar on a stock setup, or you'll have no control or the rear end at all.

ive always run a slightly higher pressure on the front to make the steering cut into the corner more (set up for fast road/circuit). my tyre sizes are, 245, 35, 18 at 32psi F 285, 30, 18 at 30psi R combined with suspension & geo mods and deletion of the rear ARB, she's like running on rails :D

good choise! :D where abouts in Ascot were you? look forward to hearing from you bud Mark

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fantastic news Andy!! welcome to the club :D

;)

thats the plug :)

pic of a red cross on here, could it be that im an out cast and not in the sub'd elite anymore? :D mind you, even your sig has gone jaykay

your guess is as good as anyones when there aint no pic ;)

close, right end of the car i guess :D