silverbullet

10mm I/D

bloody pikey!!!! a slide hammer with an internal jaw attachment small enough to fit will do it ;)

leaving the pipe off the throttle boidies shouldn't cause the engine to blow smoke (have run a few with pipes off and no smoke) unless there was an oil residue around the gap in the pipe/throttle that had been drawn in. otherwisw, maybe a coincidence?? can't help with saucing the pipes though, sorry:)

what plugs are you running? they might be blowing out due to poor condition or just a too hotter plug??? :)

mine only comes out on the floor or window. thinking of getting rid of the dash and door vents completely

yes, once the gear box, clutch and fly wheel have been removed. its just a case of unbolting the seal retainer and prying out the main seal. job done!:D

the box must be vented, either that or, well, its up to you

dont blank the pipes, they or atleast one is a breather. second hand switches are rife, check the trade section but, you only need the reverse switch. the cooler at the back of the car would have been a diff cooler so dont worry about that.

225 or 235/35/18 on the front and 265/30/18 on the rear :)

andy isherwood is the man to speak to, he's got them on his carbon bonnet;) oi! i resent the chav comment, aero flush are for poofs:D

the expansion bottle will leak, its in two parts with no water tight seal. if you pull back the arch liner you can see the bottle and its min/max lines. its possible that the bottle was filled to high when cold causing it to spill out. just check the rad when cold and top it up from there.

running water is the best way to cleen them, from inside out. then left in the airing cupboard over night to dry. i actually brought two so when one was drying i could use the other but, in the end put both of them on instead lol

stock... up grade...

linky link... http://www.ttzd.com/tech/turbotech.html http://www.ttzd.com/tech/enginetech.html

i used good old sikoflex to hold them in with, and some 3" hose running over the intercoolers around the suspension then onto a plate bolted to the back of the hubs...

be weary of those bottom arms!!!...

around 80deg is a good working temp for stock and modded :)

come with Andy Ish, Nickz32, wozzer, CooperSWB and me on friday. we're heading off for the M25 around 11:30 12ish. you too Mr P

send me an email bud. i'm Wozzers tub man. rawlings336@hotmail.com

yup, you can get them. speak to Mike at MJP autos in the traders section, he'll sort you out

its a straight forward screw in bolt to the lower plenum. if you want to remove it, best way is to put 2 nuts on the stud so they lock, then use the inner nut to undo it with

thanks dude, the balance bar is there just to equal out pressure as the passanger turbo has around 2 foot more pipe work than the drivers turbo. as far as i can remember, the A/C fan will kick in at around 105deg just as a last ditch atempt on keeping the engine from cooking. i'l be at Z009, japfest and the rolling road day (23rd) if you're about. you're more than welcome to have a nose over the old girl

Steve, have you got any contact details for the track so i can try and get a third run from some where Mark

im using a pull to draw the air through. i had mine set up on a thermo switch coming out of a collar in the top short water pipe. i've now since wired the fan into the A/C fan supply and set it to switch on at 75deg and go off at 80deg but, thats with a stand alone ecu

its the A/C fan that cuts in with the A/C and also when the engine gets too hot, i think around 100 deg. if you still have the viscous fan then i would keep it but, some people have removed the A/C fan when swapping the viscous to an electric with no problems. i myself have only run one electric (16") fan for a few years with no problems what so ever :)