silverbullet

yes. with the gate shut, ALL the exhaust gasses flow through the turbine veins producing max boost.

i'l take some when the engine's on the crane, otherwise the stand plate will be in the way...

you dont need all of it. all i did was cut it right back so it just sticks out of the trans tunnel and put the rubber one way valve back on the end of it. :)

the wider the wastegate opens, the lower the boost will be so, if the watsegate does not open, then the turbo has the potential to wind the boost up on an every increasing level.

this is for a blitz controller but, the plumbing is the same through out the makes... http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/blitz/blitz.htm

yep, i'm running an AEM. as Jaffa said, the only real down side is the CAS issue. AEM will send one of their discs out to you free of charge but, as of yet, i've not seen one run properly. the hick up's not life theatening, but can be annoying. if you're thinking of getting one, its worth getting the built in UEGO sensor which is optional as it makes fine tuning easyer. it can be programmed to run literaly anything you want at any level and any temp. i was able to get rid of the IAA completely, blocked off the plenum and now control cold start via a solenoid off the balance bar, the fan is EMS controlled, i even managed to get shot of the PCV valves which has made a hell of a difference to running:) so, in a word...... well worth every penny!!

well you'll be pleased to know that both tubs are on and plumbed in, while i'm waiting for the silicone to turn up, i'l get your new loom in and sort out all the bits that need attention;)

quite a few of us have them including JimmyTT and myself. i would recomend getting the test pipes/decat pipes and devorced elbows to go with them to complete the system :)

as Tudor said, check your fluid level :)

the belt is for your air con, the smaller circle is the tensioner pulley wheel for the A/C and the larger circle is the A/C pump

the stock gauges arn't very accurate. the pressures you mention sound find, although maybe a little low when reving. the pressure will move in time to the rev's so, dont worry about that, it's normal. might be worth taking off the oil sender and replacing it theres a rough guide in the link below but, your sender will probably be on the other side of the engine with the cable facing downwards... http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/oilsensor/oilsensor.html if you're really concerned about your pressures, you could always install an after market gauge. HTH

might be worth cleaning and adjusting the throttle bodies and cable aswell... http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/tb/tb.html http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/throttle/throttle.html HTH

got a great setup there Jimbo, where are you going to get it all fitted..............?:D

taken from the Blitz manual..... It's not easy to describe what the GAIN really means. It helps to understand that the DSBC is able to alternate its two valves very quickly, especially when compared to other systems with only one larger valve. WIth this the DSBC is able to increase boost very quick ... but this can cause extreme and dangerous overboost situations. With setting the Gain you are defining how quick the boost rises. It's in your hand to accept a small overboost but reducing the Ratio to a healthy boost level when hitting the limiter. Typically, a Twin -Turbo system creates quicker boost than others due to the smaller turbos. Also sequential turbo systems and designs with vacuum canisters are made to get full boost very quick. The GAIN setting on such systems is much lower than on cars with single turbos ! We now know that the higher the Gain setting is the faster the turbos build up boost. This is simply done by starting to open the wastegates later, i.e. starting to alternate the Blitz solenoids. The Ratio then controls the length the solenoids stay open (frequency). Looking at the table in the DSBC manual didn't helped yet, but the longer it takes the more understandable it becomes :) Please take it for a short look at it : The first line with GAIN describes the Gain setting for these cars (180SX,Skyline, GT-R, Chaser, Supra TT, RX-7, Lancer EVO) while the next lines describe the Ratio to achieve the pressure in the first column. Please note, that there is a major typo as the 0.10kg should read 1.0 kg and so on :) The problem was now that we had good results with G30 even without a lot overboost when launching ! But due to the table the car should overboost a lot ... and it does. I was able to hold the car's boost with the throttle around 0.5bars in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. Then boost was already there and the turbos where at their speed. Now I floored the pedal and boost made a huge jump up to 1.35 bars at different rpms (gears). This may not happen when driving around normally and depends on the type of your car ! Summarize : - A smaller Gain lets boost increase slower but prevents any overboost. - A higher Gain causes a fast boost increase but you'll run in danger of overboost ! - The best is to set a Gain that gives only a small overboost that will be secured by a smaller Ratio limiter setting. - On the 3000GT the best result was G8/R48 that peaked up to 1.05 bars and produced a steady boost of 1.00bars

no, they go right up to the turbo elbows, where the O2 sensors live

when warm it should idle with around 2.5 bar of pressure and can be seen to go right up to 5 or 6 bar when driving hard

gutted lol

comes with a 12 month MOT???

silly question but, is it a manual? if it is, does it stop with the clutch pressed? if none of the above, then i would say check everything with a pulley attached, e.g. aux units, idle's and tentioner.

you'll probably find that its a load of "shit" you've scooped up along your travels. any horses near you?

if all else fails Dan, i think they should work. might be worth pulling the hard pipe away from the manifold though (last pic)

could it have belonged to a member on here Murt?

its on ebay at the moment advertised for breaking. does anyone know of this car that can shed some light on it for me? cheers Mark

go onto the AEM website and either phone them as i did, or follow the link to ordering one. they will send it out free of charge. best to get a second CAS and strip that down. that way, you will have one of each. you might have troubles with it running correctly. the tunner that James and myself use is currently talking to the guys over in the states to see if he can get propper softwear solutions for the z32

i take it you mean the four pipes at the front of the engine? age, most stock pipes these days are brittle and the more times the come off the more they get knackered. they also look good lol