silverbullet

i recognise that pic :lol: might be better to just loop the pipe from the oil tree to the sump as i dont know if you will cause a pressure build up in the tree. i've been looking into this myself as i'm not using the cooler feed from the tree but, not had much luck in finding out weather the oil tree is under pump pressure or not

do you fancy filling out my lottery ticket? :lol:

thats true but, why be a fool at all :)

correctamundo :D

he don't need a story, he IS an April fool ;)

will you be coming back? please say you aint ;)

handling?? sh1t to a blanket springs to mind ;)

gorgeous wheels and they look so much better in the flesh!! get some side shots up to show off your rotas!! ;)

it's the cold start, works on the same princaple as a central heating room stat. it has a bi-metal srtip in it, when its cold the plate moves, opening up a hole to the plenum, letting more air in and raising the idle. once warm the strip closes the hole and the idle drops to the desired pre-set speed set by the idle adjuster.

stock cams are good for at least 500bhp pending on tubs but, worth changing if you can. im on stock cams, and at the moment, they are my achilles heal. its my next mod on the cards ;)

thats because they ar'nt working inderpendantly, getting rid of the ARB will make the rear end act like a skier when turning. i feel more confident now without the bar than i did with it :) if you dont want to take it off, just disconect one of the drop down links, see what you think, if you like it, stay with it, if not, all you have to do is reconnect the link :D

lol if you have after market coil overs that can adjust the stiffness, i recomend getting rid of the rear ARB. stiffen the shocks right up and she will bite into the corners giving a little under steer which is controlable by planting the throttle. makes for excellent cornering!! :D

thats exactly it, four bolts and the frame drops ;)

get yourself a driftworks rear end, solid as hell...

its a closer ratio diff on an N/A so, you gain accelleration but, loose top end. limits the car to around 155-165mph

crack on buddy, it will all marry up just fine. next step will be a full N/A rear end?? ;)

woo hoo!! :D

as long as you have a decent strong N/A clutch, there wont be any probs running that and an N/A fly on a TT engine.

the N/A and TT diff ratios are different, such a decent mod fitting an N/A diff ;) you can still use a TT flywheel with an N/A box (and bell housing), you just need to grind away at the inside of the bell housing a little to gain clearance. a spacer is also needed to sit the starter motor on which can be bough or made fairly easly yourself :)

ratio is the same ;)

was that not from the civil war days when, the soldiers in the trenches stuck loafs of bread on the end of their bayonets and held them up to distract enemy fire?

an N/A box will be fine, i'm running one on my TT. if you use a clutch and flywheel off an N/A then you wont have any mods to do. the gears are exactly the same, the only difference is a slightly smaller bell housing. HTH

lmao :lol::lol:

they look like bomex mirrors trying to be M3 mirrors, i quite like them:)

if you are going to use an N/A fly wheel you will need a an N/A gear box as the TT box has a slightly larger bell housing and the starter motor wont reach the ring gear.