Everything posted by silverbullet
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Few where does this go questions???
good stuff!! you will be well happy with the EMS, there is so much stuff you can get rid of that will change the way the engine behaves i.e, MAF, PCV's, idle air control etc. did you get the map?
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Few where does this go questions???
i mean the actual EMS, the ECU repacement so, yeah, i guess you can call it the black box lol... http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=6_21&products_id=1910
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What else to remove from behind engine
dont get me wrong, the ACT clutch was a good cluch, it was my fault it bugged up. i set my launch control to 4500rpm so, pulling off the line at 1.2bar was a bit much for it, something had to go :lol:
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What else to remove from behind engine
i've got a twin carbon Exeddy on 420ish ftlb, did have a 5 puck ACT but i welded that to the flywheel on the pod :lol:
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Few where does this go questions???
i actual use a serial to serial but, a USB to serial is much better. what unit are you using? is it the 1620 with built in UEGO? sending email now :)
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What else to remove from behind engine
is RPS an American company Jimmer?
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Few where does this go questions???
well, im running 740's, 5 bar MAP and 2860's off an EBC so, it would be a close match and some where to get you started, you can change the size of injectors in one of the drop down menus in the softwear. just had a look through my maps and i've come across one for 850's, whats your email and i'l send it over to you
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What else to remove from behind engine
drift works are fairly reasonable... http://www.driftworks.com/catalog/products/exedy-hyper-triple-plate-clutch-and-flywheel-kit.html
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those with powertrix ajustable upper arms!
he is but, i have had powertrix front upper arms, tension rods and drop links. ALL of which have failed. i dont want to scare you off, or anyone else off for that matter but, personal experiances sure as hell were not good.
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Few where does this go questions???
have a look on the AEM web site. actually, whats your spec? i may have a base map that will suit;)
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What else to remove from behind engine
will a paddle be up to it? would have thought a multi plate would be the route
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What else to remove from behind engine
bloody hell!! then in that case i would suggest a tripple plate Exeddy or OS giken
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E-bay Adjustable rear camber arms, any good?
why not spend a little more and get a set of these http://www.driftworks.com/catalog/products/driftworks-camber-arms-s13r32z32.html piece of mind and all that, especially with all the suspension failures happening at the mo, what with the state of the roads and all
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What else to remove from behind engine
wow!!! is that Nm or ftbl?
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What else to remove from behind engine
whats the torque figure you're running?
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Thank you Stu
good on ya Stu, top bloke!! :)
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What else to remove from behind engine
RPS street max or similar seems to be the prefered choise of clutch, either that or a twin plate
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Few where does this go questions???
as jmwuk said, the pipe in the third pic is coming off the balance bar, not the fuel rail. this originaly goes to the carbon canistor so if you have no CC, as said cap it off. the old coolant bottle could well be the over flow, some people move it from the front to the rear to aid with air flow for the IC. the small outlet on your rad in the pic should go to that bottle unless you want to put an over flow tank else where.
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those with powertrix ajustable upper arms!
had exactly the same thing with mine, always clunked when cornering or hitting a bump, in the end the dam thing snapped!! changed to SPL and no clunk never buying powertrix again
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high idle after being thrashed
have a go at disconnecting the TPS plug (not the one directly on it but, the one on the fly lead) for 15 seconds, then reconnect. see if that works :)
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What else to remove from behind engine
yep, get to them from under the car so the ratchet is at the prop shaft end of the box, there are 10 bolts in total, seven bolts are going through bell housing to block, and three go the other way, from block to bell housing
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What else to remove from behind engine
there should be solid hard lines running along the side of the engine bay just by where the alternator is, going to the front where the cooler sits, the rubber pipes coming from the engine will be fixed to those hard lines via jubblee clips or those stupid screw versions. you can disconnect from those and let the rubber hoses dangle. the easyest way to get at the top bolts on the gearbox is with a 1 1/2 to 2 foot extention with a UJ and 14mm socket on the end.
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What else to remove from behind engine
the nut's not normal but, the gap between the clutch fork and cylinder body looks ok. have you adjusted it at the pedal? although saying that, the rod looks slightly at a piss from your pic
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What else to remove from behind engine
keep at it dude, you'll have it out in no time :)
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The truth about facebook - southpark style
lol you know that you've spent far too much time on here when your mrs posts notes for you rather than on the fridge door :lol: