silverbullet

my box is whining, if the noise appears when the clutch is pressed, it's the thrust bearing. if it's making the noise in every gear and in neutral when the clutch is up then, it's the main bearing in the box which is a big job to get to and very pricey.

sounds to me like a possible PTU fault, check the connectors are clean and in good working order

happy birthday dude!! how about a trip to legoland :D

i didnt think the UK's had them either?? i couldnt have come across a UK box yet then :lol:

well, you got a zed dude. it aint gona be cheap ;)

yep, and there aint no cooler take off's either ;)

you wont need a cooler for the box

is that america figures though Dave??:glare:

had my exeddy twin in for over a year now, plenty of track days and hard gear changes. i cant fault it. the trouble with twin plates is you need to use them correctly i.e. keep your foot of the clutch pedal when not using it and dont slip it at all. they need a lot of beding in but, if all done correctly, should last you a long time

nothing wrong with the Stillen GTZRII bumper... actually, it's the most famous zed bumper there is, atleast for the next 20 days or so :D

AMS radiators are of a high quality build and do there job perfectly, top adjustable arms are solid and under drive pulleys are also a very high standard of quality. they are the only AMS products i have delt with

are they 270 bearings? with upped boost, you may well have knocked the gubbings out of true, possible bent shaft or scored journals im affraid. either way its new tubs time:nuke:

exactly as TonyB has said, if the tub has seized due to compressor or turbine vein damage then there will be no oil leak but, if the shaft, journals or seals have caused it to seize then there is a good chance that the oil will seap, causing it to smoke.

well, it was good day today, really great to see you again after near on 2 years!! engine looks so gorgeous with a high quality profession about it! even the actual body is spot on, you're going to have one mighty fine zed at the end of it all :)

i do and i have just struck a deal at a local inderpendant ferrari race shop to rent a ramp off them on the understanding i do a couple of days work for them a week :)

:D thanks dude

and you still couldnt tell which way round the out lets were :lol:

always, wipe one job off. stick three jobs on, and when theres only 2 days in the week to do them, the list stays there for some time :lol:

oh, forgot to mention, undo the HICAS pipe work and ABS wiring aswell ;)

lol the never ending growing list, you mean!! :)

bite the bullet and get yourself a twin plate!! it comes with a free fly wheel :D

yep, if there are no brake lines on the calipers then you can leave them on but, the hand brake lines will need to be disconnected from the yoke and not the discs. i normally put the body on axles and have a trolly jack under the diff so, when the subframe is free, it's just a case of lowering the jack and sliding the frame out. if you can get the body high enough then the wheels can be left on and rolled out :)

do you mean the hard lines? to drop the whole rear end is fairly straight forward, disconnect the hand brake cables and unbolt from frame, unbolt the calipers, disconnect the prop, unbolt the 2 plates covering the front 2 subframe bolts then its just 4 bolts holding the frame up. the whole thing will then drop :)

ahwwww, only joking ya Jimmy. you did help, in your own little way:)

nope, you will need the subframe, diff, drive shafts, hubs and the rear end of the prop