Joely P

Solved - Don’t remove the oil cap whilst the engine is running Trev! [emoji23]

Oh my! [emoji7]

Ouch! That’s an interesting place for it to start cracking, is it not more likely that the plug was over tightened by Lee? Or is that a mounting point?

I’m not convinced Nissan ever documented the colour code for the wheel colour, the illustrated parts catalogue doesn’t give any info on it. Ideally, you need to find a good condition wheel that’s known to have original paint and get that matched taking its age into consideration.

I don’t think you would have an issue with a 1.2bar cap but your finding is interesting that earlier cars cane with 0.9bar caps though. I can only assume that some climates reported overheating problems and so the OEM decided that the system was capable of the increased pressure to raise the boiling point accordingly.

This is a good question, every time I’ve replaced my rad cap (about 4 times over the years), the OEM cap has been rated at 1.2bar as shown on the cap. I always assumed this was correct as it’s the Nissan part number listed for the car. It’s funny you mention that your previous cap was rated at 0.9bar as the FSM seems to suggest that for the test criteria: [emoji848]

That looks like a decent car, very pleased to see it’s going to be loved once again. That’ll clean up wonderfully I reckon but you should focus on ensuring the mechanicals are tip top first and then you can tart it up afterwards. If you’re doing it to sell, I would certainly keep the OEM wheels on it as it gives a potential buyer a clean, stock car to work with and if they want to modify it, they have a blank canvas. Welcome to the club. [emoji41]

1. I would recommend replacing all the fluids, all the belts and the tyres as a minimum and do the rest on condition as required. 2. The best person to do it would be a trip across the M4 to PowerZed on a trailer. 3. Contact PowerZed for a quote. 4. A 1986 300zx is a Z31 and as this club is dedicated to the Z32 300zx, you may not find anyone familiar with values. We can certainly help identify the mode and engine to clear up the issue regarding twin turbo or single turbo if you can pop up a couple of pics. A 33 year old car that’s been stored for almost 30 years sounds like a bit of a time warp! Look forward to seeing some pictures.

Welcome to the club [emoji106] Look forward to seeing your progress, you have a nice garage space to work in [emoji41]

You have the matching CZP cover fitted in your pics?

I’m not convinced CZP really offer group buys? Their customer service is awesome so it wouldn’t take long to find out. Im sure Coz or Nick do shifts at the keyboard answering questions at 3am! There would potentially be benefit to combining orders for shipping either way though. [emoji6]

Admin, make that a 14 day ban for not posting this in the “What did you do to your Z yesterday” thread! [emoji1787]

Can an admin please issue a 7 day ban for this post not having a pic attached! Rules are rules Dave! [emoji28]

Good feedback Richard, I think I’ll get one of those myself.

I concur, that looks amazing [emoji41]

Link to my project thread: https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?179722-An-OEM-Z32-Beyond-Expectation A little video: [emoji41] And 3 pictures:

Me and my Lady!

Well priced headlamp though.

Evolving!

I can’t remember the VIN from my old car K300 GAV.

I stumbled across this the other day and it looked really quite good compared to most of the eBay garbage! I bought a couple and I must say, they’re pretty tasty! It has a laser etched branded ring and feels like it’s generally great quality: Here is a link for anyone that might want one (I’m not affiliated with the seller by the way!): https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192377055670 They also sell this one:

I look forward to the day that crosses our shores!

It was just verbal advice from Charlie at SRR, I didn’t think to ask how he knew at the time. This point reminds me that I used to have Datascan on live readout when I had a car pc and it would usually peak at 96% duty cycle at 9psi.

COTY [emoji41]

I see your point and don’t get me wrong I am no expert, I don’t build engines, but I think this is an interesting debate. I’m guessing you’re worried about killing the velocity because the inlet tract cross sectional area would increase at the blend, causing the airflow to become momentarily divergent? By leaving it as it is though, the airflow will still diverge but more suddenly as it goes past the restriction, and also induce lots more turbulence. In my head, it seems logical to buzz the “into wind” obstructions to the airflow in its direction of travel in an attempt to maintain laminar flow as show by the red lines below. I’m not thinking a huge amount of material being removed, just smoothing the transition: To avoid too much decrease in velocity, I would then leave the lower section (as shown in that pic) as an acceptable intolerance as it doesn’t directly interfere with the airflow. Technically, it will cause a small stagnation point as the flow drops off it, but with relatively little effect in comparison to the into wind restriction above. Doing that affords a quick compromise between maintaining laminar flow and keeping the velocity/pressure as stable as possible. I have no idea how much real world effect the mismatch would cause so it could be all pie in the sky anyway, it just seems a shame to leave it as it is after all the engineering that’s gone into it so far.