ChrisC

I've noticed it takes a second or so for HID's to spark up too. I'm sure this wouldn't work very well if you tried to flash someone :confused: Maybe the best and cheapest option is to just get some bright colour matched standard bulbs.

Well when mine went the speedo worked most of the time but very occasionaly dropped slowly to zero then jumped back to the correct reading. HICAS light was on all the time though :confused:

Ignore Andy, he doesn't know what he's on about :D By the way, does the streering go heavy when the light comes on??? LOL

I meant disconnect the convertor if its an import but as it's a UK the problem must lie with the speed sensor on the gearbox not sending a signal. I had this on mine and it's pretty easy to swap. Could be a dodgy set of clocks as Andy says but I've not seen that problem much TBH

Must be either a faulty speed sensor on the box or if it's an import there might be a problem with the kph/mph speed converter behind the clocks. Try disconnecting it for a while and see if the light stops coming on :)

Sorry mate, I wasn't being arsy just saying it's nothing to do with wheels/tyres :) Punctures or wheel alignment don't cause HICAS problems - only low fluid, steering wheel/boss fitting errors or speed sensor/Jap speed convertors will make the HICAS light come on. If the wheel alignment was that far out to trigger the HICAS your wheels would be pointing at about 45 degrees to the kerb. If the wheel hasn't been put on straight to the HICAS boss or the boss wasn't fitted properly then the ECU thinks you're driving round a never ending bend and realises something is wrong so disables the system after a few minutes. Same if it doesn't get a speed signal from the box but this will also make the speed sensitive power steering go heavy.

I'm agreeing with you far too much these days. I was chatting to a very rich girl who lives near me and gets everything paid for by daddy. She's got a palace of a house with indoor pool etc and a 360 (I've offered to kick her ass LOL) and she was bragging about her dad getting a new 599 for his birthday. I told her it was minging but she wouldn't listen and said I was just jealous LOL Noooooooo it REALLY IS minging! LOL

Found a pic of the SE Nistek eliminator: It's the rods at the bottom which aren't right. One end screws into the wheel hub and the rose joint end fastens to the eliminator bar and allows for toe adjustment. They're about an inch short each side and not threaded properly to allow adjustment on the car. Bugger! :rant:

It does when the rear wheels are pointing out so the car won't drive in a straight line and tries to randomly swerve left or right so bad you have to quickly give it opposite lock :o LOL Car is dangerously undriveable above 20mph so I couldn't use it even if he'd passed the MOT.

I suggested that or cutting the old rods off the original HICAS rack and welding them on but he didn't fancy the idea and said that even then because the rods both have the same right hand threads it means it's not adjustable on the car so really needs one of the rose joints changing to a left hand thread. As it is, when you screw one side in to bring the toe in it screws the other side out LOL He can get the rose joints and knows a local engineering company that will make some rods up so I think thats the best plan then at least the jobs done right. Shame he's going on holiday and it will take over a week as the car was going in for paint doing before Billing/JAE but probably won't have time now.

My HICAS eliminator had some incorrect parts so they couldn't align the rear wheels after fitting it so they've had to fail it until the parts arrive next week but other than that it sailed through :)

The problem is that the SE kit is different to all the other eliminator bars. It has rods on the end to give adjustable toe and SE stopped trading years ago now so I'll have to get them custom made :( Can't put the old setup back on as I ripped out all the HICAS pipes etc LOL

The HICAS bars are too short though so the kit was either made wrong or it's for a SWB if the distance between the hubs is less?

It's either Nend or one of his mates that's putting it into another car :) Really looking forward to another trip round Europe with those guys :bow:

Just had the car in for a 4 wheel alignment and MOT after fitting one of SE's fancy adjustable HICAS eliminators the other day. Drove the car 2 miles to the garage this morning and there's so much toe out on the rear that the car was steering from the rear and swerving all over the road so I couldn't do more than 20mph and I was actually having to put opposite lock on to keep it reasonably straight! :o No worries, just needs aligning I thought... Garage calls me later to say the adjustable toe bars on the eliminator are an inch too short to set it back to factory spec and where the hell did I get this dodgy kit from? :( Looks like SE have fitted the wrong length bars on the end or it was for a different car and of course they aren't trading anymore. Do Skyline R32's have a similar HICAS setup? So... because of this it failed the MOT and the guy is going on holiday tomorrow for a week so when he gets back he's getting someone to make up the correct length bars with correctly threaded rose joints as this eliminator also has the same right handed thread on each end so you can't adjust it on the car :rant: :headvswal :headvswal :headvswal :headvswal :headvswal

So could be a bad wiring connection on that coil or dodgy harness but the PTU is probably more likely as everyone I know has had the PTU go pop!

Hmmm I'd forgotten about that. I'll do like Mark says and get some blue bulbs :)

Does sound like the PTU has failed. If you've swapped one of the coils and there's still no spark on that cylinder then it's got to be the PTU. There might be someone on here who's local who can let you try their unit or you can probably get a used one in the for sale section on here. You might have to pay your £20 and subscribe to do that though. Don't buy one from Nissan UK though they want crazy money and give you the old part not the Series 2 type which never fails.

I'm sure he'll see this post, he's on here most days. I usually contact him on here so I don't have an e-mail address for him I'm afraid.

Yeah DTA are doing kits for £99 and I've seen even cheaper on eBay but I'm sure the quality won't be so good. I can remember when they were about £500 not long ago.

Just a second HID kit with the correct bulb fitment :) Wondering if you can actually see much further or if the headlight design is a restriction.

I've only ever heard of a couple of these engines, probably because of the silly price. One of the guys in Belgium is fitting a JUN engine.

Silly me :slap: I've retrieved the lead with sensor on so I'll plug it back in when the car is back from MOT today :)

Is there much difference over the stock main beam? I find with HID in the dipped lights I can't see much further when I switch to main beam and the light looks horribly yellow in comparison. Presume it would be an improvement but a lot is down to the headlight design.

You might get intermitant sparks or missing on 1 or more cylinders. Have you tried swapping the coil packs? What's the problem exactly?