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Dodgy HICAS eliminator - I hate my Z sometimes


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Just had the car in for a 4 wheel alignment and MOT after fitting one of SE's fancy adjustable HICAS eliminators the other day.

Drove the car 2 miles to the garage this morning and there's so much toe out on the rear that the car was steering from the rear and swerving all over the road so I couldn't do more than 20mph and I was actually having to put opposite lock on to keep it reasonably straight! :o

No worries, just needs aligning I thought...

 

Garage calls me later to say the adjustable toe bars on the eliminator are an inch too short to set it back to factory spec and where the hell did I get this dodgy kit from? :(

Looks like SE have fitted the wrong length bars on the end or it was for a different car and of course they aren't trading anymore.

Do Skyline R32's have a similar HICAS setup?

 

So... because of this it failed the MOT and the guy is going on holiday tomorrow for a week so when he gets back he's getting someone to make up the correct length bars with correctly threaded rose joints as this eliminator also has the same right handed thread on each end so you can't adjust it on the car :rant:

 

:headvswal :headvswal :headvswal :headvswal :headvswal

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I had new wheels fitted a while back and because they were 18"'s from 17"'s I was told I sholud have the ICAS re alligned. It was OK but I thought they know best? Ever since then its pulled slightly to the left. I took it back and its spot on (they say) it was OK before. Makes you wonder sometimes if these peole know what they are doing. I hope you can get it sorted mate.

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The problem is that the SE kit is different to all the other eliminator bars.

It has rods on the end to give adjustable toe and SE stopped trading years ago now so I'll have to get them custom made :(

Can't put the old setup back on as I ripped out all the HICAS pipes etc LOL

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Chris, sounds like you have a Skyline HICAS eliminator as these are smaller and less wide.

To solve your problem, you could get the Essential Z32 HICAS lock out bar (DTA Motorsport) + (new) Hicas rods and it should all be fine again.

In this case you'll still be able to have some adjustment from the stock rods.

 

BTW. there's no difference between LWB and SWB bars...they share the exact same subframe.

 

-Eric

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Can you not get some collars made up to space the rods out?

 

I suggested that or cutting the old rods off the original HICAS rack and welding them on but he didn't fancy the idea and said that even then because the rods both have the same right hand threads it means it's not adjustable on the car so really needs one of the rose joints changing to a left hand thread.

As it is, when you screw one side in to bring the toe in it screws the other side out LOL

He can get the rose joints and knows a local engineering company that will make some rods up so I think thats the best plan then at least the jobs done right.

Shame he's going on holiday and it will take over a week as the car was going in for paint doing before Billing/JAE but probably won't have time now.

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tracking being out aint right, but what reason did they give for it failing the test because that dosent come into it

 

It does when the rear wheels are pointing out so the car won't drive in a straight line and tries to randomly swerve left or right so bad you have to quickly give it opposite lock :o LOL

Car is dangerously undriveable above 20mph so I couldn't use it even if he'd passed the MOT.

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Found a pic of the SE Nistek eliminator:

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=34957&stc=1

 

It's the rods at the bottom which aren't right.

One end screws into the wheel hub and the rose joint end fastens to the eliminator bar and allows for toe adjustment.

They're about an inch short each side and not threaded properly to allow adjustment on the car.

 

Bugger! :rant:

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