Maz

No worries mate, let us know how you got on. Maz

I would have thought: A: the NA fuel pump runs at 2 speeds , this is governed by the FPCM B: The TT fuel pump runs at 3 speeds, again governed by the FPCM The TT FPCM receives it´s operating info from the Crankangle sensor, TPS and something else I can´t recall. so, if all the wiring is the same as the TT FPCM that you put and it´s receiving the same info as in the TT set up then the fuel pump should work at 3 speeds. I can´t help much with the wiring or connector as the 2 seater is different , but what you should be getting when you check the wiring is : from the five wires on the connector the red one should have a permanent 12 volt supply when the engine is running and the black one has an alternating voltage. If you measure between those two points you will get the actual voltage the fuel pump is receiving. was that any help or have i missed the point entirely ? Maz

looks like an Ab-flug 300ZG front bumper Maz The purple or red one about 20 pics down http://www.nissanpacific.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3132

I´ve not yet had to play with the alternator, but looking at the wiring diagram it looks as though a total of 5 cables come off the alternator: a white one and a red and white one together ( W W/R) 2 white ones together ( W) 1 Black one on it´s own ( could be brown or blue ) ( B ) looking at the diagram the white + white and red one goes onto a larger bolt on the alternator ( ground perhaps) the two white ones go onto the inside connector (between the larger bolt and the outer most connection) the black one on the outside connector Hope that´s of some help Maz :)

From what I have read they are all the same. Courtesy Nissan lists 2 "different" ones but they have the same part number ??? I also read somewhere that the Nismo slave for the 240sx is the same,,,but can´t confirm it :)

Try this: http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.311 about halfway down the page on dash removal is the removal of the centre console....quite an easy job really...once youßve found the screws :)

okay long distance drive on the Autobahn and everything is working fine. end of the electrical / fuel supply problem. Thanks to everyone for their input over the months and a special thanks to JeffTT. Maz :)

Problem solved! Unbelieveable!...after checking everything, and then checking it all again I took a closer look at the underside of plate where the fuel pump is connected beneath. A very close inspection of the contacts there revealed a single strand of electrical wire was bridging the plus and minus pole. Almost impossible to see. we didn´t even see it when we resoldered the fuel pump wires on there. removed the wire and now eveything works fine without the FPCM getting too hot. Tomorrow I have to drive a longer distance so I´ll know for sure after that, but fingers crossed. Cheers. Maz :)

Update I´ve checked all wires from ECU to relay, from relay to FPCM and from the Control module to the pump for continuity – All OK The Fuel pump is OK with 0.5 ohm across the connectors The relay clicks and sends the 12 volt to the pump for 1 second. To prime it The FPCM seems to be working OK too in that it passes the 12v constant from the relay To the pump once the car has started and the white wire passes on the variable ground path.Measuring the voltage coming from the FPCM to the pump it does exactly what it´s supposed to do: Primes pump, 12-14v for the first 30 seconds of starting, then drops to 5.9 – 6 volts on idle.Volts increase as you accelerate too. So why does the Fuel pump control module get so hot after a 10 minute drive , starts to give off that electrical burning smell- that´s when I switch the car off, Faulty FPCM ? two in the space of a few months ?

screw? I thought the Z had like a little gear (with cogs) that you had to turn to adjust the headlights ?

Are you sure the 2 are "connected" ? i.e on mine , when you first drive off the seatbelt warning light is on and goes off after a minute or so. It doesn´t go off when I put the seatbelt on. I don´t think there is a contact on the belt that once "clicked" the warning light extiguishes. So you can all have your belts on and the warning light can still come on. sound more of an electrical problem than a problem with the seatbelts. That is if it is the same kind of set up as I have. :) Maz

The TPS is on the right hand side of the right hand Throttle body ...little black box thing at least it is on a 2 seater TT US spec LH drive ..i guess it´s in the same place :)

Ah, ok :) cheers for that Ivan , appreciate it . Maz

OKay...sorry guys, forget this thread, I´ve been refering to the Euro spec manual 2+2 while working on a US-spec 2 seater :hammer:the wiring is completely different. :oops:

is´nt that the difference between Euro models and US/ Jap import models ?

I´ve checked the fuse mate, and all the relays in question, The problem is I can´t figure out where the cable leads to. Two of the wires on the connecter in question are for fuel level and fuel warning light. the 3rd one is the one where the power should turn off after 1 second, but the power stays there, even if you remove the fuel pump relay and FPCU. I´m guessing the 1 sec "burst" of power is to prime the pump,,,,but where is that cable comming from..is there another relay inbetween that could be stuck in the "on" position permantly ? I´m kind of grabbing at straws here mate

HI :) I say 2 seater as I don´t know where the part I am refering to is on a 2+2. Still hunting for this electrical gremlin. on the 2 seater, behind the passenger seat ( On a LH drive model ) under the platic "lid" is the actuator for the anti brake lock. Can anyone confirm, or maybe not, that when you switch the ignition on the actuator goes "click, click click" ( 3 times) quite quickly, Is this normal ? Cheers Maz :)

The Fuel Pump Control Module keeps blowing; I´m on my 3rd Module and aleady I can smell that smell of electrical burning coming from th FPCM. I´ve checked and replaced the Fuel pump relay. I have a brand new OEM Fuel pump I´m guessing the fact that the power to prime the pump stays on constantly, plus the normal power that is switched to the pump when in operation is causing the problem. I just can´t explain why the power remains on the connector when it should go off after 1 second :confused1:

:confused1: In the repair manual, section EF & EC , Page 151, Diagnostic procedure 39 under “A – Check power supply” it says when checking voltage between fuel pump connector terminal "A" and ground Battery Voltage indication should appear for 1 second after turning ignition switch "ON" Has anyone had it that the Battery voltage indication appears and then stays there? Instead of going off the voltage stays there permanently and goes up to almost 14 Volt when the engine is running. As always, any ideas are greatly appreciated. Cheers Maz

"both" ? What I´m getting at is "were the exhaust pipes hot" ? then as you probably know water is a by-product of the combustion of fuel. fuel contains hydrogen, and when it´s combusted, some of that hydrogen combines with the oxygen producing water. Usually, when the exhaust is hot enough the water exits in the form of invisible water vapor. However, when the engine is cold or/and the exhaust pipe not hot enough, water can condense and become visible as liquid water dripping from the exhaust pipe. :) Maz

did it spit the water from the exhaust pipe while the engine was still cold, or had the car reached operating temp ? :)

Nobody ? I´m guessing it is supposed to rattle, and when you blow through the valve it allows a certain amount of pressure to build up , but then releases it when it reaches a specific amount. So I think it´s still intact even though it rattles. Cheers anyway Maz

Hi Has anyone removed ( to check ) the fuel vent check valve. If so, is it supposed to rattle ? Cheers Maz

ahhh...right, sorry, can´t help you out there mate...try JeffTT maybe ? :)

AL advise you in what way ? :)